| Author | Message | ||
     Canxb |
Hello all, Looking at doing the bearings on my 2003 Buell XB9r while the rims are off for new rubber. While looking through the archives I did not see a definitive part number for replacement SKF bearings. Would anyone have the SKF numbers for the front and rear that I could use at my local bearing house to get what I need? Also would anyone also happen to have the spacer part numbers as well for the front and rear. I need the Buell part number for these if at all possible. All I have right now are the Buell bearing numbers and I am not even sure if they are correct. Firebolt Wheel Bearing (Front) [E0004.02A8B] Firebolt Wheel Bearing (Rear) [E0005.02A8B] Thanks in advance. | ||
| Itoandre |
Front: 6005 2RS (SKF) Rear: 6006 2RS (SKF) | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
I use this numbers, SKF front bearing 6005-(2RSH) SKF front bearing 6006-(2RS1) and the parts catalog i have for 2004 xb lightning models axle front spacer for xb9s/xb9sl/xb12s : part number G0325.02A8 axle rear spacer : part number G0321.02A8 I think you can use these also for the 2003 xb9r the numbers you have need a letter A on the end instead of a B Good luck!  | ||
| Canxb |
Thanks for the info. This is what I was looking for. Brother in buells, just to clarify, the part numbers need to have an "A" added to the end or replace the "B" at the end with the "A"? Also wondering if anyone has ever made an install tool, and if so are there drawings of it for others to reproduce? I have a bearing remover/slide hammer combo but am wondering if there is something for the replacement of the bearings that I could make? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Yes ,replace the B at the end for the A You can use the old bearing to press the new one in (but you have to remove the inner cone and bearing balls) so you press only on the outside of the new bearing. | ||
| Froggy |
You don't want the "A" bearings. The letter on the end is the revision, they start with no letter, then get an "A" after being revised, then a "B" of revised again, continuing down the alphabet. While there is nothing inherently wrong with the A's they are not the latest and greatest. | ||
| Greg_e |
http://www.bocabearings.com/search.aspx?SearchType =quick&s=6005+2RS#TopOfSearchResults http://www.bocabearings.com/search.aspx?SearchType =quick&s=6006+2RS#TopOfSearchResults I would probably measure the old bearings to make certain they match. I would go for the faster speed ratings which cost more. | ||
| Al_lighton |
You can use the old bearing to press the new one in (but you have to remove the inner cone and bearing balls) so you press only on the outside of the new bearing. This is NOT a good idea..it's fine for pressing in the first bearing (brake rotor side) but a recipe for disaster when pressing in the 2nd bearing. The first bearing must be supported by BOTH races, and the second bearing must be pushed in by BOTH races, when pressing in the second bearing. The outer race on the 2nd bearing does NOT bottom out in the wheel when it is seated properly. Al} | ||
| Reepicheep |
So Al, could you use *both* old bearings? One supporting each of the new bearings? With a nice strong plate outside of both? Personally, when I have to do it, based on my experience with splitting dirt bike cases, I'll probably use a thermal strategy. But I have the bearing press bits just in case that goes wrong (as it sometimes does). | ||
| Canxb |
So Al and all, Just so I understand everything here. The first bearing (break side) is pressed in and bottomed out by pressing on both OD and ID. This bearing is bottomed out on the outer race. The other side is pressed in on both races as well but bottoms out on the inner race against the axle spacer correct? Now, is this method for the front or rear? And is the method the same for the other end with the brake rotor being the side first pressed in? | ||
| Al_lighton |
The first bearing (brake side) is pressed in and bottomed out by pressing on both OD and ID. This bearing is bottomed out on the outer race. The other side is pressed in on both races as well but bottoms out on the inner race against the axle spacer correct? YES, you nailed it. This is true for both the front and the rear wheels. Always press the brake side in first. I wouldn't use old bearings. What I use for anvils is a set of tapered roller bearing cup press anvils that I've had for some time that I picked up at an auto parts store years ago. Like these, though mine are a different brand: http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog/rental-loaner -tools/470-648996-master-bearing-race-seal-driver- kit-kit-66.html They're really inexpensive. One was a gnats butt bigger OD than the 2010 bearing, but I just filed the OD down a bit..they're just aluminum discs. I highly recommend that you look here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/474350.html#POST1504686 Also, removing the bearings can really suck. My bearing removal tool is a 1 foot plain steel rod the same diameter as the axle, a box of un-plated steel washers with an OD that is the same as the axle, all available from Mcmaster Carr for really cheap. I support the wheel parallel to the ground at a height that puts the end of the rod halfway through the bearing. I drop the washer onto the end of the rod, clip a ground cable to the steel rod where it touches the ground, and then hit a couple welds to the washer and the inside race of the bearing. I am the worlds worst welder (it's true!), so you don't need much of a welder or any welding talent for this. Then I use the same rod to press the bearing out by pressing against that washer. Works great, and there is zero trauma to the bearing spacer end. BLind bearing pullers can really wreck the spacer end sometimes. Al} | ||
| Al_lighton |
FYI, Harbor freight has an inexpensive bearing and seal driver kit for cheap : http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race -and-seal-driver-set-95853.html This is the kind of tool where cheap is just fine. Don't buy cheap cutting tools, wrenches or socket..... | ||
| Reepicheep |
I got that kit when it was last on sale. The colors are cool and the aluminum plates are nice, but I was a bit disappointed that it lacked much in the way of additional seating tools. Would it have killed them to add in a few different lengths of threaded rod and some nuts? Haven't had the need to use it yet. Perhaps I'll like it better once I have. |
