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Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 12:59 pm: | 
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How much would the market pay for a smart relay? One that didn't turn on until it sensed the bike had started? It would have just two wires in (red and black), and two wires out (red and black to the HID).
I have hardware and software to do it already... I do it for my heated grip controller. In fact the MOSFET I use to drive that controller would probably be sufficient, so you don't even need a mechanical relay anymore (which is one more mechanical part waiting to fail). |
Greg_e
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 10:01 pm: |
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A timer for 10 to 20 seconds after the engine fires up would be good, be it MOSFET or relay. |
Terrys1980
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 10:48 pm: |
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quote:High beam you'll want to leave Halogen for flashing and quick startup purposes
I ride with my brights on at all times, so leaving the halogen is pointless. I wired the hi beam flasher button to my garage door opener.
quote:How much would the market pay for a smart relay? One that didn't turn on until it sensed the bike had started? It would have just two wires in (red and black), and two wires out (red and black to the HID).
The smart relay sounds like a good idea. I am sure one would appreciate not having to find a place to put the relays or the extra wiring.
Not sure what would be a good price, maybe $30-40. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 - 06:57 am: |
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How about 8 seconds after the motor is running, the light strikes? That should give enough time for the motor to decide if its going to keep running or not, but not wait that long. Remember this thing could trigger if you stall the bike at night at a stoplight... shorter is better.
What about after it is on, but the engine stops? It could stay on for 30 seconds (just for "bling factor") before you walk in the house (I know a couple possible ways to pull that off). Or it could just shut the light down immediately. Or it could leave the light in the state it is in, but look for the starter to crank over, then it could drop the lights out for 8 seconds again (meaning one reboot, but just one for the restart, and one not off/on immediately, which was what seemed to bother the previous HID setup I had).
Just thinking out loud here. It would be an easy thing to build using all the stuff I learned making the heated grip controller, and was in the back of my mind since I built the analog version of this thing a while back (schematics posted here on Badweb, but it's a fussy little design, and I would do it different now even if I did it again analog). |
B00stzx3
| | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 04:57 pm: |
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Thanks for that link Terry!!
I'm having trouble with my high-beam not coming on with the switch when it worked before. Either bad ballast, something is unplugged or some other issue. I used 2 ebay relay harnesses and hacked them into 1 (1 harness with 2 relays, 1 for low and one for high). I'll get it sorted out before the season begins.
Oh yeah using dual 55ws |
Wildman4x4nut
| | Posted on Saturday, December 31, 2011 - 10:02 am: |
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Reepicheep,
I think $25-40 would seem far. Let us know when you have some ready. You can PM me if needed to not make the mods made. |
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