| Author | Message | ||
     Trevorxb9s |
Ok, so I did the initial 1000 miles tune up at the dealership. I actually walked out of there only paying something around $180.00 or so. I am comming up on my next inspection (2500 miles.) I really don't want to pay the nearly $300.00 they are asking. So I have a couple of question. First let me say that I am fairly mechanically inclided and don't mind doing my own maintenace. 1. What am I going to get from the dealership in a 2500 mile check that I can't do at home. I did recently do the airbox conversion and snorkel removal...in addition to adding a DRUMMER (by far the cooooooolllllessst thing ever.) 2. I know that I have seen some tricks to changing the motor oil. Any suggestions 3. Should I change the primary fluid as well? I know many of you have suggested synethics...what types again? Thanks. I look forward to hearing from you guys! | ||
| Austinrider |
Trevor - Keep the box that the oil filter comes in. Use it as a guide/funnel to keep the oil and primary fluid off your pipe and tires. I basically cut my box in half, and put it between the pipe and swingarm/primary cover to keep any fluids from spilling on to the bike. Pay special attention to not get oil on your tire, that could be nasty. As for oils? I use Mobil 1 V-Twin Synthetic or Havoline 20/50 Synthetic. In the tranny I use Mobil 1 75/90 Gear Lube. | ||
| Rocketsprink |
The book says 5,000 mile service. Good idea to change the fluids, but do it yourself. The dealer may be looking for extra $$$$ out of you. As for fluids, I use Harley Synthetic, but that's just my choice. | ||
| Xb9er |
1. If the dealer follows the recommendations in the manual then at 2500 miles it's- change oil and filter; inspect the following: brake pads and rotors, tire tread and pressure, electrical components, oil and brake lines, forks, shock, exhaust and exhaust mounts; road test. 2. Tips and tricks: ride the bike to get the engine hot before draining oil; since you have the Drummer, draining oil should not drip on the muffler?? (based on pictures I have seen); clean the drain plug thoroughly; check that the drain plug o-ring is not damaged; put a few ounces of oil in the new oil filter and hand tighten it only; don't over tighten the drain plug (use a torque wrench!!); take used oil to a recycler (Wal-Mart Auto, Jiffy-Lube, etc.). 3. I change my primary fluid whenever I change oil, but regular interval is usually every 5,000 miles for primary fluid. 4. I use Mobil 1 20W-50 for V-Twins and Mobil 1 75W-90 Gear Lube. Mike. edited by xb9er on July 10, 2004 | ||
| Coldwthrrider |
I have the race pipe and put a plastic cup over the tip of the exhaust. It diverts all oil and not a drop gets on the pipe.  | ||
| Trevorxb9s |
Thanks for all the advice. I have seen some posting regarding ways to determine the exact quantity of fluids to replace. The manual is pretty vague. Also I noticed that there isn't a TPS reset on the 2500 mile inspection, I didn't have one done since the Drummer and airbox changes...is this something that I should have done? | ||
| Trevorxb9s |
sweet picture...thats the best use of sour cream i have seen yet! | ||
| Darthane |
Trevor, No, you do not need a TPS reset unless you change ECMs or at regular service intervals (10K, I believe). I just use some tin foil that I form over the muffler when I change fluids. Just gets tossed in the bucket with the oil when I'm done. I also use Mobil 1 20W50 synth in the engine and 75W90 synth gear lube in the tranny. Big improvement in transmission shift quality. I change all my fluids every 2500 miles (even if you follow the recommended 5000 for the tranny, I would change it more often during the first 10K miles as the tranny breaks in). Cheap insurance! Never go over the limit unless you really have to...would you rather pay $40 for a do-it-yourself synthetic oil change or hundreds or thousands for engine/transmission work? For the engine, I put a few ounces in the filter, and then the rest of 2.5qts (minus whatever's in the filter) into the swingarm. For the tranny, 28oz. Never had any weeping, leaking, seeping, and this thing uses no oil whatsoever. None. Finally, $300.00 for the 2500 service is a complete snowjob. If you're comfortable doing even moderate work by yourself - do it yourself. Cheaper, more satisfying, and given the track record of many dealerships with regard to Buells, much, much less frustrating! | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
I use a 20oz coke bottle with part of the bottom cut out at the side, like if someone took a scoop out of the side. It rests nicely on the exhaust and leaves enough finger room for the drainplug to finish the last couple turns once its loose. With as much as I drink...I ALWAYS have atleast 2 or 3 empties laying around for the knife. I always change the primary with the engine just so I don't have to worry about it. I also stand the bike upright after the oil has slowed to a stop and seem to get just a tad more out. Both from the primary and the swingarm. This last change I used the Mobil 1 V-Twin but have used just the regular Mobil 1 20-50 and Castrol 20-50 superbike formula full synthetic. Mobil 1 75-90 synthetic in the primary. | ||
| Brucelee |
"The manual is pretty vague. " Actually the manual is quite specific. Look it up. Oh, and when you buy the filter, always spring for the new crush washer. It is like .15. I change the oils (both) and filter every 2500. | ||
| Curtyd |
DO NOT FORGET..WHEN YOU REMOVE THE PRIMARY INSPECTION/OIL FILL WINDOW... the big one, not the primary chain inspection little window. That plate is what holds the little spring into the center slot of that nut in front of you. I pull out both because they aren't fastened in any way. That way I avoid dropping them down into the bottom of the primary case and now having to fish around for them later. I wait until I am ready to put the cover back on before sliding them back in. The easiest way to get the bike level for filling is a wood block under the side stand and the right handlebar propped up on the right side against a wall or another immovable object so it can't fall that way. Loosen all drain bolts while the bike is steady on it's sidestand, and do your final torque again when it's down. Put primary plate back on when bike is upright or it will spill a little oil out if you try and do it on sidestand and you'll never get the level right. I use the full quart some folks say 28 to 30 oz. The Mobil 1 gear oil seems to be working fine for me. It is very good to do the primary oil at 2500, and it's very EASY, it has to be if I can do it. Careful with those little screws holding on your plastic lower they strip pretty easy. Buy the star tool at Sears or somewhere and use a steady hand and don't over torque them tight. Don't lose the little plastic washers. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Harley has blister packed allen head bolts to replace those idiot torx fasteners. You can easily and safely get the bike upright by putting a piece of rebar through the back axle, and supporting it on two jackstands. You can easily pop it completely off the ground this way as well if necessary (lean bike to left, ratched up right jackstand, reverse and repeat). Works great for everything but pulling rear tire (obviously). | ||
| Odie |
Found this at Wally World for about $4. Both ends are capped for cleanliness. Has measurement on the side for precise filling. Holds one quart. Pretty handy..........Odie  | ||
| Whosyodaddy |
Coldwthrrider, How often should the sour cream be changed on an XB? WYD | ||
| Kevinfromwebb |
WYD, I think you're supposed to check the expiration date on the bottom of the container ...  Kevin | ||
| Whosyodaddy |
Thanks for the clarification. (The owners manual wasn't very specific.) Ok, this begs the question: Synth or low-fat? WYD | ||
| Odie |
Oh yea, I forgot to mention that on the funnel I posted the blue collar is a valve that you turn and empty the quantity you put in and then close it, put the next quantity in etc. It works pretty darn good actually..........Odie | ||
| Unibear12r |
Why low-fat? You only live once! Live to the fullest! edited by unibear12r on July 12, 2004 | ||
| Yeahcmon |
just buy a funnel!!!!! |
