Author |
Message |
Buford
| Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2011 - 11:43 pm: |
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Any tips etc. on how best to attack this? thanks! |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2011 - 11:51 pm: |
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The airbox cover and bottom piece will have to come off. Get a 5/8" swivel spark plug socket that has the rubber piece inside to hold the spark plug. Be extra careful when putting the new plug in not to cross thread it and don't forget the anti-seize grease on the threads. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 12:55 am: |
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Having done this once without the swivel socket and once with the swivel socket, you need the swivel socket. There really is no discussion. |
Bicyclebob
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 01:11 am: |
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Put a piece of fuel line on the top of the plug and tighten it in all the way by hand......then use the swivel socket. |
Noone1569
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 08:19 am: |
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+1 on the swivel socket. With the larger Buell Tool Kit (one that rolls up), it included a swivel socket that made changing these a piece of cake. Just take your time, take care to hand thread it nicely before taking the wrench to it. I was able to just use my hand, but the fuel line method seems to work for a lot of people. The other buell site has a fairly good walk through video. |
Gentleman_jon
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 08:59 am: |
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Here is a good discussion of the problem from days gone by. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/498317.html#POST1588038 It includes a photo of the Official Sag Harbor Spark Plug Changing kit which should be in the tool kit of every right thinking Buelligan.
PS: There is a knowledge vault on this site, which contains the collective wisdom of the early XB owners who, together, solved just about every problem with these bikes. There were quite a few of them, if memory serves. It is a bit difficult to search at times, and I have found the GoogleBadWeb function at the top of every page to usually works best. (Message edited by gentleman_jon on June 13, 2011) |
Slaughter
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 09:42 am: |
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Kinda hate recommending Harbor Freight (but somebody has to support the Chinese workers) They have a set of 4 sparkplug sockets for $11 http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-swivel-spark- plug-socket-set-95487.html |
Midknyte
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 12:07 pm: |
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I've not needed to remove my inner airbox to change the rear plug. But, absolutely, do use some rubber tubing or a length of fuel line to get the plug started. And patience. And a dab of anti-sieze. |
Buford
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 01:52 pm: |
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Awesome..thanks so much guys. |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 02:11 pm: |
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I looked back through the manual. Midknyte is correct on not having to remove the inner airbox. |
Srwitt
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 10:27 pm: |
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I just use multiple extensions and go in through a slot btw the frame and the airbox base. Its a PITA but I've managed to change the plugs 4 times so far and this is how I've done it. A wobblejoint would be much easier |
Greg_e
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 10:43 pm: |
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You would be surprised how much easier with the u joint attached to the socket like the pictured tools. |
Irideabuell
| Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 11:02 pm: |
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No jokes please, but I have small hands and am able to reach in and remove and rear cylinder plug and put it back in. I did need the swivel socket and even got the piece of hose, but never used it. |
Luv2spd
| Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2011 - 11:27 am: |
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I found this video very helpful, even though the video is a few minutes long, it takes a lot longer in real life, even longer if you have sausage fingers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMeqOE5Jxsg |
Gentleman_jon
| Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 10:24 am: |
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Nice video, but really, that is sort of doing it the hard way. There is no real need to remove the filter and inner air box cover. Just remove the front plug with an ordinary box end wrench, (or ring spanner as we used to say), from the side after removing the scoop and spar kplug wire. Using the Official Sag Harbor spark plug wobble wrench,(see above), the rear plug can be removed by sliding the wrench in from the side, under the frame. The angled needle nose pliers make fooling around with the spark plug wires easier, especially if one is ham fisted. Don't forget to check the wires for chafe and cracks. Always a good idea to replace them, especially on older XB's as there was an upgrade somewhere along the line. |
No_rice
| Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 11:04 am: |
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i use a cheapo set of spark plug boot pliers. alot safer then the needle nose since they wont tear of the rubber on the boot or wire. and it really is a quick and easy job once you figure out how to do it. |
Buford
| Posted on Saturday, June 18, 2011 - 11:22 am: |
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Got R done. The rear was easier than I had expected. Didnt realize both plugs are on the left side..ha. Iridiums.. |
Dhays1775
| Posted on Saturday, June 18, 2011 - 12:04 pm: |
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I just bought some iridiums from Al at American Sport Bike. Planned on putting them in tomorrow morning. And I might as well change the oil while I'm at it. These bikes are easy to work on once you figure them out. I know it took me a little bit. LEARNING HAS OCCURRED!!! WOOHOO!!! |
Aj_brooklyn
| Posted on Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 09:01 pm: |
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I just bought some iridiums from American Sport Bike also,what is the gap on those ? same as regular plugs or something different? |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 09:10 pm: |
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.035 |
Dhays1775
| Posted on Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 11:48 pm: |
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Those plugs are already gapped. There's no need to mess with them. It even says so right on the box. |
Aj_brooklyn
| Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 08:20 am: |
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Thats cool, thanks i didn't even look at the package yet. |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 09:18 am: |
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Pre-gapped or not always check them. |
Chessm
| Posted on Friday, June 24, 2011 - 11:49 am: |
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i just flipped the bike upside down and shook it really hard also found a bunch of quarters |