| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
OK, so I'm about ready to drop the engine out of my 9R... Can I just drop the thing or will I need to support the swingarm to keep the wheel from lowering? | ||
| Slaughter |
You gotta LIFT the chassis. See pics in shop manual. | ||
| Greg_e |
I was hoping there was a different way, I'll have to rig something up or wedge something between tire and tail. | ||
| Slaughter |
I've used ratchet straps and hung from the garage rafters. Pretty simple actually - but depending on how long you need to do the work, your other vehicle is going to be getting some "outside time." | ||
| Ducxl |
OH,WHAT FUN!!!! i'm fastening the last few nuts and bolts today.Been a long few months.I work slowly. Lifted off the frame with an engine hoist.I removed the swingarm and entire wiring harness as well.Later(after assembly) realized the fuel pump does'nt insert/remove without additional swingarm clearance.Slaughter recently stated you could do "pump" R&R "in the back of a pick-up". I can now WHIP off the swingarm in less than a half hour. The biggest part of reassembly was PROPER harness and wiring placement. Got a digital camera? Take profuse amounts of pictures of wire/wire tie placement. Fun work for sure. Edit: oh,i see. You're "just" removing the engine.Shortcuts can be a challenge.A tough "house of cards" when the engine connects to both the swingarm AND frame at the rear. "When you know what the job requires the rest should be easy" (Message edited by ducxl on June 12, 2011) | ||
| Greg_e |
No pictures of the wire routing but the service manual give good pictures of all that stuff. Need to find a way to lift the back frame while the oil drains and then remove those last few bolts so I can open up the cylinders a little easier and see what has failed! Rear cylinder looks good inside (through spark plug hole), front cylinder is black goop. Funny clicking that now sounds more like a click and slide. Sounds a lot like Hughlysses bike did before he pulled it apart so I am expecting the same failures and hoping it is something less. Depending on the failure there are three fixes: #1 bore the cylinders to the next size over and new pistons #2 bolt on 1050 kit #3 engine swap I think the determining factor is going to be con rod/crank condition and then cost. I'd like to keep it pretty much stock displacement so I don't have to do a bunch of ECM programming. It won't make much sense to go with a pair of new stock cylinders and pistons because the cost will be pretty much the same as the bolt on. If the conrod big end bearing is shot then I have to split the cases and get a new replacement or send mine out for balance, lightening, and new bearing (if it can be done) and that is $500+. Bolt on kit is $750. I may also pull off the cam cover and replace the oil pump drive gear, makes sense since it will be mostly torn apart anyway. Might as well rewrap my headers with the titanium wrap while everything is apart. The header studs need to be removed and replaced since they are in bad shape. | ||
| Kdogshirow |
Nallin Racing has a good deal to bore the cylinders to just over 1000cc , new pistons/rings , and bring your compression to a true 10.5 to 1 . The stock compression is not what they claim it is in the specs , it is under 10.0 to 1 . Raising your compression will make a difference you can feel , and the bore and pistons are under a grand . Very cost effective . I learned this from talking to K.Drummer about his race XB9 . Good stuff ,  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Greg- you can always remove the swingarm and rear wheel first, then just lift the frame off the engine. Two people could do it very easily or one person with a hoist, especially if you remove the forks and front wheel. Depending on what you find in your engine, you may need to remove the swingarm for a thorough internal cleaning anyway. Crank bearing and pin can definitely be replaced, but cost is nearly equal to cost of the superior 2008-up crankshaft (~$700 vs. ~$750 or so IIRC; prices may be listed in my Uly thread). Left side crankcase bearing needs to be changed if you go to 2008 crank, and Darkhorse recommended that right side bearing sleeve be re-fit (both operations require a machine shop). Erik Buell Racing highly recommended the 2008 crank update if I'd gone that route. (Message edited by Hughlysses on June 14, 2011) | ||
| Greg_e |
It looks like the bottom end is solid, just the top end is whacked. I ended up lifting the back end with ratchet straps, it had to go up much higher than I had anticipated to clear everything with the engine on my cheap china motorcycle lift thing (which works great by the way). If I had removed the header it would have cleared better but the header is easier to work on if the engine is out. Still waiting on tools to decide if I get a bolt on kit or go with stock parts. If cylinders and pistons are junk, then it will probably be a bolt on kit at 1050 since there is a small difference in money between 1050 and stock cylinder/piston kits. | ||
| Slaughter |
Couple pics FYI   | ||
| Greg_e |
I may think about building a frame out of 2x6 to pick up both ends, the higher you lift the rear, the closer the front tire gets to the motor and interferes. Depends on how often I need to change motors, hopefully this will be the only time I ever need to do this again. Side covers and stuff can come off with engine mounted. I'll be installing a new rear isolator while the engine is out, I was going to do this anyway so I've had the part for more than a month. One thing I did find... You MUST use a pair of straps to keep the cycle from tipping. A single strap in the middle will never stay. The rear passenger peg mounts work really well for this lifting. |
