| Author | Message | ||
     Ducbsa |
After starting my '07 XB12S to go home from work, the check engine light stayed on all the way home, 17 miles. I checked the code at home and it was #33 - Fuel Pump. The shop manual seems to say replace the pump and see if it fixes it. If the bike runs fine, what could be wrong with the pump or does the ECM know when the pump is on its last legs? | ||
| Greg_e |
It might be seeing a low pressure but I don't think it monitors the current draw. | ||
| Rays |
The ECM must monitor the fuel pump control. The '06 manual has this troubleshooting info for Code 33: Code 33 will set if: - BN/Y wire is shorted to 12 volts. This will also cause the ignition fuse to blow. - BN/Y wire is shorted to ground. This will cause the pump to run continuously even when the motor is not running. [confusing way to say 'when the pump hasn't been turned on by the ECM]. - Fuel pump motor stalls. Given your bike still runs I would say that the second one is the most likely. Have you ever noticed the pump not turning off after a few seconds when the kill switch is set to the Run position (with the ignition on)? If so, the chaffed wire inside the fuel pump would need to be eliminated. I'm not sure if the '07's have the bare wires that the '06's do and it is always possible the same wire on the loom side could be worn through somewhere. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Rays - The fuel pump is pretty quiet, so I haven't noticed it, but I'll pay particular attention to check it. Replacing a wire sounds better than a new fuel pump. My impression is that the '06 and '07 were pretty similar. That it ran just fine coming home makes me think the pump itself isn't bad. Thanks! Any other ideas are welcome. (Message edited by ducbsa on May 07, 2011) | ||
| Greg_e |
If the pump runs all the time you will never notice it when the motor is running since there will be no problem. It is however pointing out that there is a problem and the next wire to short could leave you stranded. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Yeah, I agree, I'm not going to ignore it. I listened this morning for the pump, but didn't hear anything after the initial buzzing after the key was turned. I'll try feeling for it down at the pump itself, if I can reach. | ||
| Ducbsa |
It looks like I might be able to pull the pump with the swingarm in place. I will have tie downs on it and jack it up under the rear of the muffler and disconnect the shock. If not, well, pulling the swing arm isn't too bad. | ||
| Rays |
Not sure about the TT but on my '06 Uly I was able to remove the pump with the swingarm in place. I removed the wheel and belt because on my first attempt to lower the swingarm with the bottom shock mount removed I realised the thing stopping the swingarm going lower was the tension on the belt!!  With that oops taken care of the swingarm was able to be lowered enough to get the pump assembly out. You can knock up a makeshift pump puller by screwing a bolt onto the threaded hole in the pump base (1/4 UNC from memory) and using a large flat blade screwdriver sitting on a socket against the frame (rag to protect the paint) acting as a fulcrum point. With the mounting screws removed the pump will lever out out with no trouble. I would get a couple of the pump body O-rings to have on hand (P0121.02A8 for the '06 Uly). |
