| Author | Message | ||
     Cataract2 |
Sigh, well got an intake leak and am having to do this again. Anyways, I was wondering what anyone who's done the intake seals before does to get these on there without having to worry about it leaking again. These are the seals I've bought for the job. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp;jsessionid=5EKSIKD2A2GSBLA0WTISM4VMDK0OWIV 0?store=&skuId=H26258 | ||
| Firemanjim |
Liberally smear ALL surfaces and the seals with Sil-Glyde--made just for such work. | ||
| 1324 |
Never tried Sil-Glyde, but sounds interesting. I may pick some up in case I need it in the future. I'm currently running on seals that were installed with Hylomar. Not many miles, but no leaks...yet. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Don't know if I will be able to find Sil Glyde here in Germany. | ||
| 1324 |
How soon do you need it? If you want to try Hylomar and can't get it over there, I have an almost-used up tube that I'll mail you. There is definitely enough to do the intake seals. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Got the Hylomar. Wonder if patrolium jelly would work... | ||
| Greg_e |
Then liberally smear all surfaces with Hylomar, should do the trick. | ||
| Nobuell |
The Sil Glyde is a high temperature silicone grease. As far as I know, the Hylomar is and adhesive. I assumed the Sil Glyde was recommended to help the seal seat correctly. Was the Hylomar recommended to adhere the seals to the intake and manifold to preclude leaks? | ||
| Tick |
james gasket makes a seal with metal in it so it will not deform i have used on few bike works great .they also have seals with an added lip in them to insure a good seal no metal in those .i have fond that if you lightly coat the seal with vaseline before install it will help not to binned up or pinch you also should check the distance between the tb and the heads it should not be touching it should have about .030 of play | ||
| Cataract2 |
Tick, when you mention distance between the tb and heads. How would I go about checking this. Not quite getting the picture in my head on what you're saying. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Put the tb (throttle body) in place without the seals and mounting flanges. mount it only with the little bolt on the left side were its bolts on to the bracket between the two heads and look from the right side how many space there is between the tb edges and inlet ports. if the tb and heads touching each other it keeps leaking! so remove some material from the tb on both sides with a file and look and measure again till it fits properly. (make sure there are no sharp edges etc) | ||
| 1_mike |
I second the Hylomar. The Hylomar never gets hard, so it continues to move with the engine expanding and shrinking when it goes thru its cold to hot to cold cycles. Did it to my 12R a while back, no problems. Mike | ||
| Tick |
i use a peace of sand paper stuck to a flat peace of marble and put some pb blaster on it so the sand paper dose not get loaded up but a file will work to. If you get the space right it will be all good .I will get a part number on the james seal on friday i have some more coming in so you can check it out on your end | ||
| Cataract2 |
Thanks Tick. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
Part Number: H26-258. Hylomar. No more problems. Work fast with the hylomar it gets really tacky really fast. Also try not to get the gaskets pinched which is hard to see with the hylomar. I pinched my first set somehow and changed them for peace of mind although they weren't leaking. (Message edited by spacecapsule1 on April 21, 2011) | ||
| Tick |
26995-98 james seal you cant pinch this this is a drag part #26995-98 | ||
| Cataract2 |
Thanks Tick. Will consider those next time. |
