Author |
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Rho_138
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 07:09 pm: |
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Alright I've decided I'd ask here first before going to a mechanic over it, I've got a little bit of experience when it comes to my bike etc, etc. Problem being I'm pulling off the top of my rocker box, and then pulling off my cam cover to replace it, question to be had is whether or not the cam cover is holding all the gears in place or what have you, or if I open my rocker box the wrong way, or pull off the cam cover the wrong way will the guts of the engine spill out onto the floor? That said, should I just take it to a mechanic or DIY it? |
Hammer71
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 08:06 pm: |
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its a DIY no need for mechanic or any of the above worries |
Rudy
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 08:10 pm: |
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Do you have the service manual? You're on the right track. Unload the valvetrain by removing the rockerboxes, then pull the cam cover. If you're careful (lucky), the cams will stay put. If you're not lucky, a cam (or cams) may come with the cover. This isn't a big deal, since the manual lays out pretty well how to install them correctly. Also, the manual will come in handy when you're buttoning it back up (torque values and sequence for the cover) as well has helping in getting it timed correctly. |
Rho_138
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 08:43 pm: |
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Alright so all I do is pull of the rockerbox covers and that will unload the valve train? After that I pretty much pull off the headers and then pull the cover off and if I get lucky none of the cans will come with it and I'll be good? But if a cam comes with it, can I just pop it back in so it slides in place or do I have to line it up with a mark or something? |
Rho_138
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 08:52 pm: |
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Sorry for being redundant but I want to do this right and not break something ya know. |
Rudy
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 09:16 pm: |
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You have to take the rockerbox off, not just the covers. You need to unload the valvetrain (cams, lifters, pushrods, rockers) by removing the rockers. There's a trick out there where you remove one rocker box, then put the other at TDC to remove tension from the other. That is discussed in this thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/166620.html If a cam comes out, there are marks on how to put them back in, yes. For reassembly, you'll have to retorque the fasteners in the proper order when putting the cover back on. Then put the rockerbox(s) back on following the proper torquing sequence, etc. The service manual really is invaluable... Although, if you search around here enough, it's probable that you can find most (if not all) the info you'll need to do the job. edit: This is also a good thread (even though it's on replacing the oil pump drive gear): http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/387168.html (Message edited by rudy on April 17, 2011) |
Rho_138
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 09:22 pm: |
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Alright thanks a bunch there Rudy, I'll take a look around and get myself the book format of the Service manual. If I run into a pro0blem I'll shoot you a PM if that's cool? |
Rudy
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 09:35 pm: |
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Hey, no problem. I don't have a lot of experience (just working on my own bike), but I do what I can to help. If I don't know the answer, there are plenty of knowledgeable people here. Badweb is a great place. =) |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Monday, April 18, 2011 - 02:02 am: |
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Strongly suggest, when you get to the cam cover - slowly pulling the cover off, you can keep the cams in by gently/carefully pushing the cams back towards the case. Use a screw driver or other prying instrument. If you accidentally pull one out (or two, or three), or drop it, you can use the marks to reset them. But you'll have to rotate the crank to get to the reset point, it's not too tough. It's just SO much EASIER to no have to do that at all. I did this on my M2 and stressed about it quite a bit, had to reset cams 'cause I was off one tooth. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, April 18, 2011 - 08:00 am: |
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There is a crank position sensor in the cam cover as well. The manual says to disconnect the connector to remove the wire, but a strategically placed 5 gallon paint bucket will hold the (probably drooling) cam cover near enough the bike that you don't have to remove the wire or connector. It catches the oil dribbling from the inside of the cam cover anyway. Without a manual? Don't even try. With a manual? Very doable. If you have the old (grey, not gold looking) oil pump pinion gear, you probably want to swap that out when you are in there. I think they started putting in the gold ones in 2006 or so. |
1324
| Posted on Monday, April 18, 2011 - 08:10 am: |
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quote:If you have the old (grey, not gold looking) oil pump pinion gear, you probably want to swap that out when you are in there. I think they started putting in the gold ones in 2006 or so.
Yes. And if you do this, make/buy the pinion holding tool. There is no way to safely remove/reinstall without the appropriate tool. http://www.handsontools.com/JIMS-1665-XL-and-Buell -Pinion-Gear-Locker-Tool-for-Harley-Davidson_p_197 51.html |
Rho_138
| Posted on Monday, April 18, 2011 - 09:09 am: |
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I have to actually swap the cover and sensor, and I grabbed up the oil drive gear just to swap her out, I'm getting the service manual shipped out like next week, and I plan on draining all the oil as it is because in swapping out the swing arm while I'm working on her. So there will be no fluids leaking. |
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