| Author | Message | ||
     2008xb12scg |
so I found the rattle I've been looking for when I got home and the part that holds the front header on was down around the pipe... The bolts appear (at first glance) to be good, but the nuts are missing. Does anybody happen to know the size/type of nuts that go on there? Would save me a lot of running in and out of the hardeware store. Or worse a trip to HD to pay 5-6 bucks a pop for them. | ||
| Slaughter |
5/16 24 pitch (fine thread). You need grade 5 or grade 8 (not grade 3) | ||
| Cataract2 |
Go with grade 8 to be on the safe side. Don't skimp. | ||
| Slaughter |
Yeah... what Cataract2 said is true. You can get the grade 8 in the hardware section at Lowes. | ||
| Ratfink |
I had the same problem with mine. 2 times. Cracked a header pipe in the process. Thank you to warranty service. | ||
| Slaughter |
You CAN get self-locking high temperature nuts. They are available from Fastenal through their retail stores - problem is you have to buy a box of 100 ... but it's only about $15 | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
Thanks guys. Found out the header stud is broke. Ezblast came over to help. can't get the old stud out for nothing... Tried the usual, vice grips, heat, spray. I got a good enough grip to torque the nut enough to almost know the bike over (nice catch Ez) and it's not budging. All I can think of now is to weld a nut to it or drill it out. Anything I'm not thinking of let me know.. Funny thing is my truck is down waiting for the dealewr to open so I can order a missing bolt. And my dads bike that's stored here for the winter started leaking gas all over when I went to start it. What a day... But the XB header stud is the one I think is going to F with me.. | ||
| Ratfink |
Well if you cant find someone to borrow a "jims tool" from, I possibly would be willing to ship you mine to borrow. Just don't know if it would be better for you to buy one like I did. | ||
| Slaughter |
Jims tool - afraid that's the only real option after all else has failed. I've got all 4 drilled and heli-coiled. Something to think about - if one nut backs off, the OTHER side will break the stud. Check them every once in a while. | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
Thanks guys, I'm trying to google what a Jims tool is and you don't want to know the things I saw. I feel so small now... What is a Jims tool? One a last try last night I got a really good grip on it with an EZ out, well similar to an ez out but better. I got a good enough hold on it that it broke the bolt. | ||
| Hootowl |
"trying to google what a Jims tool is and you don't want to know the things I saw" You owe me a keyboard. It's a jig that lets you cleanly and accurately drill the bolt out without screwing up the head. Jeff | ||
| Slaughter |
Jim's tool at A_S_B I didn't do any shopping but you can expect to pay about $100-$110 (but borrow one if you can). If you have to buy one, AL has as good a price as anybody right now Good pic on how it's used  | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
Thanks guys. If all goes well ill get the truck fixed today and then start back in on the xb. Some how I missed slaughters post about the self locking nuts. Ill have to see what those are. If I did have a crack (god forbid) would I be able to see it? That would really suck. The thought of drilling out that stud is pretty scary though that moms tool is a great idea if I have to. | ||
| Slaughter |
The tool makes it easy but you can't reall expect to be able to just replace the original stud, you'll use the hole that you drilled with the Jims tool as your pilot for Helicoil (or Keensert or whatever brand X threaded insert - all another topic). Post up a "HELP - need Jims exhaust stud drill tool" thread and see if you can find somebody who'll loan you one. If not, the $100 from Al is a decent price. | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
Thanks, Looking at it I have to take off the header to use that maybe if I take the header off I can get at it better and it will screw out, I hope... Not that I have any idea how to take off the header, but I have a manual. How do I make sure nothing is cracked? | ||
| Slaughter |
Your nuts are in the mail. (Wait a minute, that sounded bad!) | ||
| Petebueller |
I'm pretty sure that the stock nuts are lower grade than the stud so the nut will fail before the stud. I'll check. The front nut for the muffler is definitely lower grade than the bolt. If you broke a stud there is a good chance that your front muffler mount may not be right. The studs shouldn't break if the muffler is mounted correctly to the motor. If you tighten up the header clamp before the front strap the muffler may not be all the way into the front cradle when the strap gets done up. You'll get a bit of flex and this breaks studs. You can sometimes feel the flex as a vibration through the right footpeg. The strap can also break if it is flexing. If you break a strap you should replace the front studs because they have been stressed. | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
Pete I had an incedent a few months back with a rock.. It crushed my pipe. at the time the header bolts/nuts looked good. Looking back maybe it was not and now it just finaly broke the rest of the way. | ||
| Petebueller |
That makes sense Scg. I guess anything can fail but those I've known who've broken studs have all had them stressed in some fashion. If someone breaks a front strap for example I think they should look at the way the muffler has been fitted and change at least the front studs as well as the strap. I checked the parts book. The nut is listed as a 5/16x24 locknut and doesn't mention grade. The studs looks grade 8. It is better if the thread in the nut fails before the thread on the stud if the nut gets over tightened. | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
Slaughter, finally I will have some high grade stainless nuts! | ||
| Cataract2 |
You can always go with a lock washer to ensure it doesn't try to back off. | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
Thanks to Slaughters nuts I got my bolt off. That sounds really, really bad. Ok thanks for all the help and advice. Now when I put the new bolt on do I loc-tight and screw it in? I hand screw it in and then just screw the bracket down to tighten it? | ||
| Slaughter |
Can't recall the manual's recommendation - but it can't hurt to use HiTemp Loc Tite. If you use the self-locking nuts, the friction on them WILL back out the studs if they are not loc-tited in. | ||
| Slaughter |
I think the recommended torque used to set the studs into the head is pretty high - like 20 ft. lb but you better check. Put two nuts together on the fine thread half of the stud to use to set it - then removed them - good to go. I can go look at my manual... it's just that it's dark and cold outside in the shop right now. | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
well I got it all back together and there's smoke from the top of the engine. I didn't notice it smoking before. I'm hoping it's not a cracked head or anything like that. But it's cold and dark, I'm frustrated and it's time to call it a night before I start throwing things. :-) so the morning I will look again and hope I'm wrong. Man I was so stoked when that header bolt came out. I was sure I'd be riding tonight.. | ||
| Slaughter |
I $&^%-ed up putting my top end back together and pinched the head temperature lead in the gasket on the rear. Smoked like a MO FO. At least a new set of top end gaskets isn't too expensive. | ||
| Vospertw |
I checked my header nuts after reading this thread, slightly loose after 5000 miles. However, anyone have any hints on how to check the rear cylinder header nuts? I can barely see 'em, much less get a socket on 'em. Thanks! | ||
| Cataract2 |
You have to remove the sub frame, read shock and fan to get access to them. | ||
| Petebueller |
You can get the lower one with a ring spanner pretty easily. A friend has a mechanic that gets the top one with a socket that has a strip cut out of it. You can also support the tail and remove the shock and get in that way. http://www.srwmoto.com.au/diy-changing-headers/inf o_15.html | ||
| Slaughter |
I can "fake" it on the rear (wait a minute, that sounded BAD) with a crow-foot wrench and a u-joint. Problem is can't use a torque wrench. |
