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Vospertw
| Posted on Friday, October 15, 2010 - 11:02 pm: |
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I have an extra set of rims and need to replace one of the front bearings. Couple of questions - I noticed the book says to put the writing side of the bearing facing out... any idea why? Just curious - always thought a double-sided sealed bearing was the same either way. As for tools, anyone have the price of the factory tools, or decent alternatives? |
Ducbsa
| Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2010 - 07:36 am: |
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The tool in the shop manual illustration looks like allthread with heavy washers. Homemade with suitable sockets to get the right diameters is what I'd try. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2010 - 11:54 am: |
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As much as people hate it, Harbor Freight looks like they have a set of tools that should work. |
Vospertw
| Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2010 - 09:59 pm: |
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I know Motion Pro has the remover tool, though I think you have to buy a kit which would have the 25mm collet and purchase the 30mm one separately. As for installing, I saw that HF as a kit as well. Ducbsa - that's certainly an option. I'm sure I could come up with the pieces/parts. Maybe I could talk my local service shop into letting me measure the backing plates? Obviously it's not rocket science, but on the other hand, hate to screw up a bearing or be too hard on the alloy wheels. |
Nik
| Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 04:13 pm: |
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When I had to change my rear wheel bearings Al Lighton and I tried both the Motion Pro and HF tools to get it out, and neither worked. The only method I've ever had 100% success with, is welding a fender washer to the bearing and pressing it out from the other side. I use the old bearings for pressing the new ones in. |
Ducbsa
| Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 07:36 pm: |
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The manual doesn't mention it, but it seems to me that a good idea would be to warm up the hub area with a heat gun. Not go crazy and ruin the paint, but expand the aluminum a little to let the puller have an easier time. It is recommended for airhead BMW hubs, supposedly the races broach out the hub slightly if you don't use some heat. They are a bit easier since they are tapered rollers. |
Vospertw
| Posted on Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 04:27 pm: |
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I've used the heat gun before on other bearings, along with tossing the bearing in the freezer for a bit. Here's another question - I watched several videos on installation while I was researching this and most advocated using grease around the outer race and in the wheel hub itself to help ease the bearing into place. I don't see that mentioned in our manual. At first I thought "bad idea" if it increased the chance of spinning a bearing. However, since the bearing really shouldn't spin unless something bad happens... being greased or not probably won't make a difference, but wondering if grease or even anti-seize might minimize hub damage if the bearing did spin? |
Starter
| Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 02:02 am: |
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grease or anti seize stops the bearing from binding or spalling the housing. |
Vospertw
| Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 01:41 pm: |
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Starter - that's what I was wondering, especially since I've read a few older posts regarding spun bearings and damage to the wheel. |
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