| Author | Message | ||
     Tepiddeath |
I took apart the rear turn signals, and discovered that the "socket" on those is actually mostly plastic, and molded together with the reflective plate. I am thinking that I should be able to cut the existing "socket" portion off, and ream the hole out to accept the dual element socket. I will then eliminate the stock yellow inner lens and install red 1157 bulbs, tying the wiring in with the running light on my tail light. I don't know if anyone has done this, but if so, and there is an issue that will result, please let me know, THANKS!!!! | ||
| Sifo |
I'm very interested in this. Please take pictures and let us know where you get the sockets. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Maybe this is helpful for you!? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/321363.html?1228790457 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/421838.html | ||
| Nillaice |
yeah, i did this on my 9. i filed down the other nub on the 1157 bulb instead of dremeling out teh socket. otehr thatn that, same as teh first link there. teh left blinker clear transparent cover has dimpled/deformed from all teh heat, but hasn't gotten any worse over the last year. maybe it was due to wiring up the wrong filament to energize the running lamp. im not sure. i took that one apart a few times and put it back together cuz i didn't rough-up the surface and give the epoxy a good adhesion surface. and you do mean an amber lamp in teh turn signals, right? the tail lamp uses a clear 1157 bulb, with a red lenz. i've seen people cut holes on either side of teh tail lamp bulb and insert teh amber turn signal bulbs in there with a clear lenz and a red tail lamp bulb in the middle. food for thought | ||
| Tepiddeath |
So I pulled the bike into the living room last night, first time Ms Ruby has been in the house, and took apart the left turn signal. I started to measure up parts, and discovered that the sockets and red 1157 bulbs I bought are way too long. I am going back to the auto parts store to check out the different socket and bulb combinations. I believe where there is a will there is a way, and I want this, so I will continue to obsess over it until I have done it! I will keep you guys posted. | ||
| Bartimus |
No need to modify your existing turn signals to get running lights, just wire in one of these, and you will be good to go. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=211162&leaf CatId=&mmyId= http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=pH40028&lea fCatId=&mmyId= http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p211240&lea fCatId=&mmyId= | ||
| Tepiddeath |
I don't want to wire in a module, and i am not relocating the turn light into the taillight housing. I am going to repurpose the stock turnsignal housings. I have to go back to the auto part store and find a different socket that won't stick out so far, i also need to find a lower profile miniature 1157 red bulb. I went to advance auto this morning, the guy working there was a friggin' moron! I'm going to do this, and i will take pics and post them when i finish | ||
| Andymnelson |
if you go to radio shack instead, spend about $3 on 4 diodes and a resistor and you can use your current housing, sockets and bulbs. Just a small bit of wiring under the tail and you'd be done- running lights, brake light and turn signals all in one. | ||
| Kalali |
Andy, could you please elaborate? | ||
| Andymnelson |
A diode only allows power to flow 1 way, a resistor "resists" some of the power. You have 1 bulb with 1 filament currently. You want to supply it with 3 different power sources: turn signal, running light and brake light. Use a diode from each of those sources, so that when the turn signal flashes power does not feed back into the brake light and running light circuits, and so on. Use the resistor on the running light wire to give partial power to the bulb for running lights. I can draw up a diagram later if it helps. | ||
| Tepiddeath |
Andy- Diagram will be very helpful! Thanks | ||
| Bartimus |
 | ||
| Andymnelson |
This is similar, but very simplified. You would actually need to duplicate this for each side, requiring 6 diodes and 2 resistors. the problem with the above diagram, is that the turn wires are not diode isolated, so the brake and running light power will feedback into the system and light the front signals as well.  | ||
| Tepiddeath |
Wholy Carp!!! I just went to radio shack.com and there are a ton of different diodes, and I didn't even look for resistors yet! Can someone please tell me how many amp's the diodes need, wether I need a rectifier diode, etc... and I am assuming that the resistors are going to be a similar situation with the selection! Thanks | ||
| Andymnelson |
amps = current W/E=I where W=watts, E=volts and I=amps I believe the stock bulbs are 5 watt, so: 5/12=.416 amps somewhere between .5 and 1 amp is what you want. you want a standard semiconductor rectifier diode (uses a semiconductor to "rectify" the voltage, or only allow the current to flow in 1 direction). Should look like this:  the white band indicates the cathode side, which is the direction that it will allow 12v current to flow- that goes towards the bulb. as far as resistors: do they have a multi pack? You may need to experiment with which value gives you the desired brightness. The resistor will be "resisting" the 12 volts down to 6 or 7 volts, making the bulb dimmer for running light than for brake. | ||
| Nillaice |
i know what ya mean about the guys/gals working at some auto parts stores. there should be some kinda mechanical/electrical aptitude test before any dorky kid that stumbles in the door gets a vest and a spot behind the counter. .. i digress. so what's wrong with using an AMBER 1157 bulb and ditching the internal amber lens? i'm not trying to force my opinion upon you, just tying to help you find the simplest and most elegant solution to accomplish your desired result. | ||
| Nillaice |
so the desired result is AMBER or RED running lights integraed into your stock turnsignal housings? do you want to retain working turn signals? do you wnat to use LED's or incandescent bulbs? do you want to retatin the internal amber lens? how much soldering are you willing to do? how much money are you willing to spend on this project? | ||
| Tepiddeath |
Nilla- my desired result is RED light bulbs, wired into my stock turn signal housings, operating as either run/turn, or run/turn/brake. I want to eliminate the inner amber lens, and have only RED light in the tail. I don't mink soldering, in fact I am pretty good at it. I don't think I want LED, and I know that I don't want to spend a fortune on the project. | ||
| Sifo |
You can simply paint the amber inner lens red and use a clear bulb. It looks better than a red bulb sitting in there all by itself. I'm currently using the Kuryakyn unit that Bartimus linked to. I'm not really happy with how it works. Not great definition between the high and low power of the bulb. | ||
| Nillaice |
i don't know if RED turn signals are legit, but if you don't have state inspections like i do here in VA, that will be between you and teh LEO. if it's after dark, thier headlights should wash out the puny turn signals, no matter the color. i would reccomend buying some red tinted 1157 dual filament incandescent light bulbs, and sanding down one of the nubs on the side of the metal part. the lower nub will catch in teh stock t-signal housing and hold it goo enuff. then, from teh back side of the housing, twist the stock mteal tab so that it only contacts one of the pionts. then glue in place another metal tab and run that to a lead spliced/soldered into your tag lamp hot wire. the t-signals will have ground thru the housing via the stock ground wires. the turn signals will be on thier own independent circuit from the running lights because of the dual filament 1157 bulbs. the hardest part of this deal is securing the extra metal tab, and stuffing the third wire down teh turn signal tube/hollow bolt thinngy. i've got more dual filament 1157 bulbs than i know what to do with, but nary a one of tehm are tinted red. mayhaps some dark red spray paint/nail polish would do the trick... please refernce http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/321363.html?1228790457 | ||
| Nillaice |
the other option is to get some short, metal cased/framed arrow shaped LED signals with red running leds and amber signal leds. ... a guy i ued to ride with had them, but although they looked good, i never asked him their brand name. | ||
| Nillaice |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LED-TURN-SIGNAL-ASS EMBLIES-BUELL-APRILIA-BMW-TRIUMPH-_W0QQcmdZViewIte mQQhashZitem35aa957d34QQitemZ230495190324QQptZMoto rcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories found these ... | ||
| Froggy |
Perfectly legal in the rear. Front must be amber. | ||
| Tepiddeath |
Froggy is correct, the front turn signals have to be amber, the rear can be red, and any light that illuminates with the brake light has to be red. I have 2 red 1157 bulbs, and I am thinking that the easiest way to do this is going to be like Nillaice said, and reuse most of the stock stuff. I just have to find some suitable brass to make my contact out of. Thank you to everyone for your help! | ||
| Andymnelson |
Amy no matter what you do, you have to do the wiring portion as I posted or power will back flow into the rest of the system (ie: left turn signal will make your brake light and right signals flash, etc.). The only difference would be that with a dual element bulb you can eliminate the resistor and you would run that wire to the other pin of the bulb (not to the brake light/turn signal pin). all those $60 modules are is $3 worth of diodes in a fancy case. | ||
| Nillaice |
andy, i respectfully disagree. i find that the diodes are not necesary. | ||
| Andymnelson |
How do you figure? How do you keep power from the turn signal form flowing back to the tail light and other turn signal? | ||
| Nillaice |
 yes, i drew it on paper with a sharpie, and then colored it in with some crayons the turn signals are on thier own independent circuit, isolated from eachother and the brake circuit. putting the aux running lights in paralell with eachother they act as a ground path for the running/tag lamp. when the brake is applied, there is a less resistive flow path, thus supplying a higher voltage to the aux running lamps. i'm pretty sure the longer filament has LESS resistance since it is brighter. i can't find my fluke tonight, other wise i'd verify for you all. -sorry- if i'm wrong, and you sand/file/grind off the higher nub; the 1157 bulbs can be removed,rotated 1/2 turn and re-installed in the turnsignal sockets to switch the filaments in the circuits, while the lower nub will still retain the bulb in the socket. so, no diodes/resistors are REQUIRED but, as they say 'there is more than one way to skin a cat' Amy, i hope this helps you get your desired result/effect (Message edited by nillaice on September 23, 2010) | ||
| Nillaice |
you can part out some scratched/scuffed/broken turnsignal assemblies (that's what i did) or cut up a soda can. the contactors don't have to be copper. just make sure you scratch off the labeling ink and/or internal coating. | ||
| Andymnelson |
I like the Sharpie and crayons!  I see where you are coming from, have you ever wired a bike like this? My guess would be that the filaments would not reduce the voltage to a point of making a noticeable difference in brightness between running light and brake light on the aux circuit. |
