| Author | Message | ||
     Ducbsa |
I put on new front pads today, following the Manual per here http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/585049.html?1280987226 I was able to push the right pistons back with a plastic brush handle, but couldn't get at the left pistons. Ultimately, I pulled the axle and was able to swing the caliper out, as if I was removing the front wheel. Then there was easy access. Is a plastic scraper the right tool? If it is flexible enough to bend in there, it doesn't seem stiff enough to push the pistons. What do you use? PS: Push slowly, so the the fluid doesn't squirt out on your bike, etc. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
You really didn't need to pull the axle out. The caliper can be rotated out with the wheel intact. Use whatever you like as long as you don't damage the edges of the pistons. I've used a screwdriver or a metal paint scraper to push the pistons back. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Door shims....... Two wedges facing each other. Push them together, and WALLA! | ||
| Sifo |
I usually just put the old pads in the caliper to protect the pistons and use a screw driver to push them back. The old pads are headed for the dust bin anyway. | ||
| Glitch |
I do the same as Sifo. | ||
| Greg_e |
Never had a properly working caliper that I couldn't just squeeze the old pads with my fingers to push the piston back in, very large diameter single piston calipers being an exception. | ||
| Hemicbx |
I'm w/ Gunut. Door shims are my preferred tool for this situation. (Message edited by hemicbx on September 26, 2010) | ||
| Ducbsa |
So you can work in the shims on the left side of the disk? Obviously, you can, but I'm going to eyeball the clearances and obstructions there to understand what it takes. The original pads lasted 10k miles, so I hope I remember the shims when these Lyndalls get replaced. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Sifo |
Never had a properly working caliper that I couldn't just squeeze the old pads with my fingers to push the piston back in I don't think my fingers fit in there.  | ||
| Sifo |
So you can work in the shims on the left side of the disk? I would think you would be doing this with the caliper unbolted, and away from the disk. At least that's my interpretation. | ||
| Ducbsa |
With the wheel in place, after unbolting the caliper, I was not able to wiggle it past the "ID" of the disc. | ||
| Andymnelson |
all you need is a large flatblade screwdriver. The very FIRST step of the process is to pry on the old pads to push the piston back in, then start unbolting stuff. | ||
| Sifo |
all you need is a large flatblade screwdriver. The very FIRST step of the process is to pry on the old pads to push the piston back in, then start unbolting stuff. You aren't saying to pry against the rotor, are you? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
You aren't saying to pry against the rotor, are you? You can pry against part of the caliper. With the wheel in place, after unbolting the caliper, I was not able to wiggle it past the "ID" of the disc. If you align the caliper in the center of 2 spokes and unbolt it, you can rotate the caliper and wheel at the same time. When it gets to the bottom you should be able to get the caliper out. You may need to unbolt the brake lever from the handle bar to get enough slack in the brake line. | ||
| Hemicbx |
Just for clarification, the shim trick is to be done with the caliper off the disk. Two shims fit back to back in the space where the disk would be. Also, like Andymnelson says, you should push the pistons in prior to removing the old pads. Then if there's pad damage, you don't really care. With something soft like wood, you have little risk of damaging the new pads though. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Same as Sifo..however, prior to pushing them in, I put a block in the caliper and carefully eject them further than they already are, and clean the pistons thoroughly with brake cleaner. If you just push them back in without doing this, all the crap that has accumulated on the piston is pushed back into the seals. Al | ||
| L8_br8ker |
Clean em like AL said, then just slowly gently push em in evenly, with a flat blade wide screwdriver, being careful not to push all on one side, if patience is used and they dont go in like I said, (smoothly), then a lot of brake dust, and some grime must all be cleaned from the area first, rubbing alchohol is good for that, check if under the seals has grime too, if they wont go in smooth, and clean that | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Thanks for the thread. I got the new Ferodo pads today and the amount of wear is obvious on the old. Heck, very little meat left. I'll follow the tips here and be on the road Saturday. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Okay, done. Learned the hard way that I should have pushed the pads more before I took them out. Had more trouble with the pin. Any tips for that? And manual says to make sure that pin goes through spring. How do you know it did? Rained all day so no ride. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
You should have to push the pads against the spring clips to get the pin in. It can be a PITA. I had the whole brake assembly off when I put the pins in which made it easier to push on both pads while inserting the pin. If you damage your pins or if they are worn from heavy braking you can get them from Al at American Sport Bike.com. The pins in the used ZTL2 caliper I bought had grooves worn in them from the track. |
