| Author | Message | ||
     Tomst9 |
Hey guys, long time lurker first time poster. My bike is a 07 XB12STT. The problem I have is on light front brake apply at slow speeds I get a grabbing/pulsation. It will "grab" and then let go as the wheel turns. At higher speeds, or heavier braking i don't really notice it. Sometimes its bad enough to throw off my balance coming to a stop on a steep incline. It has pretty much happened since new, but wasn't that severe so i could live with it. Lately it seems to be getting worse. I tried a set of lyndall gold pads at about 4000 miles. They made it a little better for a while, about 1000 miles, but it was still there. Now it has got much worse. It sometimes makes a squeak noise when it hits a certain spot on the rotor when the brakes are cold, but i could not see any visual "deposits" on the rotor. I cleaned the rotor with 150 grit sandpaper and that cleared the noise up however the pulsation/grabbing is still there. I measured rotor runout today and it measured in at .006 in. Thats within the max spec. according the service manual. The wheel doesn't look visually bent. The steering head bearings don't have any play, but i did not do any resistance test on them. I don't ride extremely hard. No stoppies here!  I use both front and rear brakes when stopping. I tried just using the front brake, but that didn't help The bike has about 6200 miles. I use it for commute during the week and twisties on the weekend. Any ideas to help cure the pulsation? Thanks in advance, Tom | ||
| Andymnelson |
It has deposits on the front rotor. The stock pads leave them, and then when you stop at a light with the front brake clamped down, you "cook" the deposits onto the rotor. My suggestion: 1) order a set of EBC HH pads. These will have similar fee to stock, without the deposit issue 2) remove your rotor, clean it GOOD with brake cleaner (important to do this off of the bike, so as to get both sides good and clean, and to not get brake cleaner on your bike) 3) install clean rotor with new pads 4) use your rear brake to hold yourself at stops, not your front Alternatively, you could try several VERY hard (careful!) stops from 60-5 mph right in a row to heat of the rotor and remove the deposits, then do #4. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Andy nailed it. I was able to cook mine off easier from 80mph. Just didn't have to use the brake as hard to generate the heat. Gotta try it.........it's free!!! EBC HH. I'm going to try those soon, as I'm down to about 1.75mm in the front. Maybe a hair less now. | ||
| 1_mike |
Yep...same problem, same fix as the old posts. I use EBC, HH pads. I got blasted from the "experts" a long while back when I mentioned that I just let the new pads clean off the old crap. Rather thAn put on a new rotor or have my old one remachined...! But that is the easiest way...and as noted...it's free. Took mine about 350 miles to fully clean the rotor. Mike (Message edited by 1_mike on September 15, 2010) | ||
| Catalan42 |
There is a lot of discussion of this also on the Uly board. Mine got the pulsating rotor bad while on a 5K vacation in May (I had already put on the great EBC HH pads at 6K miles). I removed the rotor and scrubbed it hard, but that solved at most 50% of the problem. I then bit the bullet and bought the Erik Buell Racing 6mm rotor (stock is 5mm), along with a new set of EBC HH pads from American Sport Bike. Note that you must also buy a set of mounting bolts whenever you remove/replace a rotor, as they are 1-time use parts. The new rotor and pads work perfectly now! | ||
| Johnboy777 |
I went to the gold pads from American Sport Bike but it didn't matter - I still got the pulse. But I did like the feel better, though. Now, every time I ride I do 4 or 5 really hard stops (front brakes only) in rapid succession from about 50MPH or so. It works like a charm every time - it gets rid of the pulsing. I think it must clean the residue from the rotor. BTW, if something works like a charm – how do charms work? . | ||
| Sifo |
I've cleaned mine on the bike with a scotch brite pad and a mix of water & simple green with good results. My pulsing has come back though. I think I'll try the EBC HH pads at the next change. You can always heat the rotor by braking with the power on. You can get them as hot as you like that way. I advise stopping when they start to glow!  | ||
| Xenox |
Not trying to hi jack.......Quick questions on the EBC HH pads.... Do they throw off more or less dust than the stock pads? Do they wear the rotor like stock or wear into it a bit? Thanks. | ||
| Catalan42 |
The EBC HH pads make much less dust than the stock pads. As my local mechanic says, "Harley pads make dust in the box". Normally the rotor does not wear, just the pads. (Message edited by catalan42 on September 16, 2010) | ||
| M1combat |
Another vote for the EBC HH. | ||
| Nuerburgringer |
"The EBC HH pads make much less dust than the stock pads. As my local mechanic says, Harley pads make dust in the box." Buell pads are a far cry from Harley pads. I didn't notice much change in dusting. | ||
| Toecutter |
I had the problem after 3,000 miles on the Ss. First I cleaned up the rotor with a little Scotch-Brite pad and the problem went away for a while, but the pulsing came back after another 1,000 miles or so. Then, I cleaned the rotor again, and installed the EBC HH pads. The problem went away immediately, and has not returned in the 6,500 or so miles since. BTW, when I first had the pulsing, my dealer test rode it and determined that there was nothing wrong with it. They reported that the brakes worked as well as any other Buell. I have a suspicion that the mother-ship knew there was an issue with the stock Nissin pads when being used on the street,and the solution for the problem was to deny that one existed. | ||
| Sifo |
Standard dealership response... "They all do that".  |
