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Ochoa0042
Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

well..? : )

i keep up my clutch;
ONE because im a dumb ass, and
TWO because im abusive to it because i expect more out of her

especially with these wheelies, she gets torn up quick. anyways its fried and couldnt get over 60mph, im wanting
a stronger clutch spring so the pickup from clutching is faster and perhaps less abusive to the package.

I have an '05R; and i hear that the spring is already pretty stiff, and +06springs are weaker.. so im wondering if there is a race spring?
couldnt find one on American Sport Bike, but i have ordered the barnet plates.

~Thanks

(Message edited by ochoa0042 on September 13, 2010)
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Ourdee
Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You could ask Erik Buell Racing tech.?
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had good luck/feel out of the Energy One clutch pack/spring:

http://www.energyoneclutches.com/home.php?cat=13
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Ericz
Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have Rivera/Primo's 2059-0002 Gold Competition clutch spring on my XB and it, along with Barnett's carbon fiber plates, has held up to 161hp and 136ft/lbs just great! It does make for an extremely hard clutch pull, but it's a great forearm workout while it makes me feel like I have a "man's bike" Haha!!
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

For the meantime, can i put in a steel plate as a spacer? Im thinking this will work and be a temporary fix..

fat, that seems like a good replacemnt kit
Ericz, how much was your gold spring?
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I bought a kit off ebay with the puller for like $120.

Went in easy. Good components. 22% stronger clutch spring. Lever felt "firmer" but wasn't uncomfortable.

I'd use them again and probably will when the M2 needs a clutch.
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Ericz
Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The spring was like $20-25 retail. I think I paid $15 with my employee discount at the time: )
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No_rice
Posted on Tuesday, September 14, 2010 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

my question is what the hell are you doing to it? is it adjusted wrong?

mine get beat to hell and back and around again.always wheelies, plenty of trackdays, rolling burnouts, 50 horse of nitrous...

20 some thousand miles on stock clutch and not a hint of slip or any such thing. same for all the other buells ive had/have.

ive been here at my shop 5 years, and have only had 2 buells in needing clutches. one xb9sx got dumped and broke the clutch hub but he tried to ride it anyway, and another xb12r had less then 600 miles on it, a completely bald back tire and looked like it needed child care services to find it a foster home and fast.

i know stunters and racers. almost all of which run stock cluthes with no problems. thats what makes me wonder whats going on...
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Tuesday, September 14, 2010 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I killed the clutch on in my Uly. The clutches in Harleys and Buells are exceptionally strong, but they don't react well to intense and prolonged "slipping".

I burned mine doing a fairly extended jaunt on the Uly in the backwoods slipping it over rocks, logs, dirt mounds, etc.

It didn't last long after that.


I've seen you wheelie, Tim, and although there is stress on the clutch it isn't prolonged. Nor is it prolonged on the stunters most of the time.

Now if you wrapped it out to the rev limiter and left the clutch partially engaged, it would cook pretty easily:




I think some of the blame may be user error.



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Ochoa0042
Posted on Tuesday, September 14, 2010 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

more stupid than that... but yes thats how i blew it, i had a disk lock on the tire
i feel like i pissed my pants in front of an audience, the stain is running down my leg

the first stock clutch went out because a broken primary, second went out from a bad burnout at a drag strip, and this thrid now

(Message edited by ochoa0042 on September 14, 2010)
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Tuesday, September 14, 2010 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Might be cheaper to buy wheelie/burnout lessons from Rice.


Just sayin'. ; )
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No_rice
Posted on Wednesday, September 15, 2010 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

didnt break anything trying to make it go forward with that disclock did ya? ive seen some broken up swingarms and screwed up forks from forgetting that was on.
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Skinstains
Posted on Wednesday, September 15, 2010 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

They changed the clutch action (spring I think after 04) because of rider sniveling. What year is your bike ?
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Wednesday, September 15, 2010 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Na but if i did break anything other than the clutch like the swingarm I wouldnt be retired from motorcycling. I have an '05R, it has the stronger of the clutches

sitdowns, skill is there but i need to work on throttle control; i panic because im doing so well.


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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Wednesday, September 15, 2010 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Shudder.....skin!
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Sifo
Posted on Thursday, September 16, 2010 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No doubt that drag racing is hard on the clutch.

Is there really a reason to be doing the burnouts with a basically stock XB? I would think keeping the front down would be a bigger problem than traction. You might save a bit of wear and tear by skipping the burn outs.

One thing I learned from my muscle car days is that drag racing WILL find the weak link in the drive train. Eventually you get everything upgraded. $$$
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Fast1075
Posted on Thursday, September 16, 2010 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The thing to remember about MOST street tires is that a long smoky burnout will REDUCE the grip because the hot rubber will be "greasy"...a couple of short dry hops to scrub off dirt is all you need...if you get a sharp "chirp" you are good to go.

And going into the waterbox (if they are dumb enough to allow it) on street tires is complete foolishness.....
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Arcticktm
Posted on Thursday, September 16, 2010 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My Uly clutch fried at 9K miles much like Fats did.
I had not such great success with Energy One, due to them not understanding that the Buell clutch design was different from when they released their "extra plate" kits.
I finally found a good solution on my own.
Details are posted under Knowledge Vault/Drivetrain\clutches.
I am very happy with the clutch now, but also lowered by gearing.
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Friday, September 17, 2010 - 02:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I got the energy one kit today Arcticktm.. and i thought the getting rid of the narrow plate is a pro, its different from buells specs not by far.
And I cant see how this would be a problem overall, seems to me to be a plus.
The only thing i could think of for the narrow plate; is that it is the first to release its grip, and the last to engage in the clutch action.
So because of the its lower surface area, and this helps with the smoothness and wear of the clutch.
Replacing the narrow with another friction plate couldnt hurt, it would make the clutch more grippy, a performance clutch, no?

Arcticktm's Energy One Report
I've noticed and know what your talking about when saying that the driven side of the clutch basket has a raised lip/seat, and that is not understood by energy one.
My guess that that this lip will eat-a-groove into the friction plate, actually making this extra plate the most vicious. Vicious untill it was worn down to the lip height?

(Message edited by ochoa0042 on September 17, 2010)
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Monday, September 20, 2010 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've noticed and know what your talking about when saying that the driven side of the clutch basket has a raised lip/seat, and that is not understood by energy one.
My guess that that this lip will eat-a-groove into the friction plate, actually making this extra plate the most vicious. Vicious until it was worn down to the lip height?

I already have 100miles, overall this viciousness I previously stated is unnoticeable, nothing to worry about, myth busted.

The clutch works great, the extra 15%strength of the spring is also unnoticeable by my forearm. I did compare my old spring to the new one and did find a smaller inner diameter by eye, so this smaller diameter accounts to the +15%.
Works great, it pulls off the line well, power pickup is better, and the wheel breaks easier if need be.
A Great Buy for $100 that includes 8friction plates a 15%stronger spring.

I did notice from barnets clutch, the friction material's surface area is far less than stock & energy one. And I noticed that when the clutch gets hot that the pickup will depreciate, I couldnt wheelie with a hot bike and barnet plates.
And for $140 for a barnet clutch, that does not include the narrow friction plate's parts that will be needed for full clutch replacemnt, its not a good deal

(Message edited by ochoa0042 on September 20, 2010)
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Monday, September 20, 2010 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

One thing I did was remove the inner ring (the ring and half plate of the stock set up).

The Energy One Kit I bought had all the same plate surfaces on all rings.

I don't know if that made a difference or if that was a missing ingredient.

I had no problems with stack height or grabbyness on my clutch. I read Arcticktm's thread prior to my purchase but bought anyway.

I had good results and for the price ($110 including clutch puller) I think I got my money's worth.

Glad it worked out for your Ocho.
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