| Author | Message | ||
     Cbig |
I found a michelin rp2 rear but I would rather remove the tire than have the shop do it. (Properly placed paranoia) I have not been able to get a repair manual yet. Any tricks I need to watch out for - such as how to un tension the belt prior to removal? Thanks, Chuck | ||
| Boltrider |
No need to mess with belt tension. It will loosen up when you loosen up the rear axle. Only big thing to remember is to use plenty of anti-seize on the rear axle when you slap it back together. Also be sure not to over torque the axle. The book says to tighten axle to 25 ft/lbs, back it off, then tighten to 48 - 52 ft/lbs. | ||
| Slaughter |
Don't forget PINCH BOLT | ||
| Doz |
I just sneak off the tensioner...since there is no adjustment to be had. Also remove the caliper, loosen pinch bolt and undo the axle. Use anti-sieze on the axle when re-assembling. | ||
| Sifo |
The manual tells you to loosen about 15 turns. That gets the belt loose enough to remove the tensioner pulley. That will get it slack so that you can get it out without forcing or twisting the belt. Twisting the belt is BAD. Axle goes back in like Boltrider said. Pinch bolt torque is 40-45 ft/lbs. Idler pulley bracket torque is 33-35 ft/lbs. Of course the belt guards have to be taken off to get the belt out of the way. Assembly - Get the belt on the pulley, install the axle loosely. Install the belt tensioner. Tighten axle as specified above. Install belt guards. Anything else missing? | ||
| Cbig |
u guys r great...! Hopefully with time I will have more to contribute as the miles pile up like they did on the M2's Chuck | ||
| Andymnelson |
Absolutely NO NEED to remove pulley or rear caliper. Just take your time and pay attention and you'll be fine. | ||
| Ourdee |
+1 I'm with Andymnelson. | ||
| Dc29 |
Just having a good means to get bike off ground for tire removal is a bigger hassel than the removal it self. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
I didn't remove guards, just the pulley cover. Tensioner assembly: maybe no need but it did make it easier. Job is easier than it looks. Spend a bit more time looking for the manual. I think some other buell sites actually have it. | ||
| Brightbuell |
What is the recommendation to lift the bike to change the rear tire if you have a modded pipe that you dont want to dent? What other options or tricks are there to lift the bike? Come on, you guys have an answer for everything. Help a brother out. | ||
| Forerunner |
What everyone else said. I went ahead and removed the caliper since it was only 2 bolts and I was afraid of chipping the wheel finish against it. If you are like most and less clumsy than I am you should be fine. YMMV, Nels | ||
| Forerunner |
Brightbuell, I can't recommend a wheelstand enough. I have a D&D pipe that will support a jack and I still opt for the wheelstand.  YMMV, Nels | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Bike stand. I use the cheaper one with the little angle and rubber pads mounts. Had to move the little spring on the angle to the outside but it works for changing the wheels. Don't think I'd sit on it and rev the engine but I wouldn't do that with any stand. Get one, heck, get one for the front as well. Nice for all sorts of other jobs, washing, looking pro, etc. | ||
| Niceguyeddy |
Definite +1 on the stand (pit bull IF you want my opinion). | ||
| Tastroman |
I chocked my front wheel, laid a 1x4 across a scissor jack placed under the rear jacking point on the exhaust and raised just the rear wheel. | ||
| Cbig |
Got it. Forgot I had a funmover toyhauler to tie it down and atv jack. Pretty much used the muffler as a jack point. Thanks...n need for a 150 dollar stand. | ||
| Ourdee |
I always tie it to the rafters just in case. |
