| Author | Message | ||
     Iman501 |
1. how often if at all do you guys adjust/readjust your bikes suspension? lately if feels like my bike is going into turns sloppy from being stopped, or slow turns (ex. turnning 90 degrees from one street to another). I was also curious how much the tire tread affects this, my front tire is still pretty good, but i'm betting i'll have to replace my rear in the near future, its not horrible enough to replace yet however. 2. is there another method of keeping your seat attatched other than the two screws? one of the screws is stripped, and i'm having dificulties getting it out, so once i do i would like to attatch the seat a different way if possible, or is having the seat screwed down/attatched even something i should worry about?.... | ||
| Luxor |
Hi Iman, Once my suspension is set I leave it. It shouldn't change at all. Now having said that, tires have a huge impact on performance. Most notably, tire pressure. I notice a big difference if my rear is down by only 1 to 2 pounds, the bike feels mushy and doesn't want to turn in well at all. If I over inflate, the bike gets spooky and feels slick like on ice. You see the point I'm trying to make. Check your tire pressure often, very often. A good 200 miles on a hot day can change your pressures by as much as 3 pounds. I'm in the habit of checking every time I ride, takes 2 minutes and is the easiest way to maintain good performance. On the seat issue, not sure, I ride an S.  | ||
| Srxy |
Have you had your wheel bearings checked? When they start to go the bike will tend to "wallow" when you corner. If your tyre is knackered then it will make the wallowing feel a lot worse. | ||
| Timoc |
American Sport Bike has what you need for the seat screws. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/A16501.html Have on my bolt, works perfect. | ||
| Greg_e |
You might need to make a modified attachment by drilling the brass mounting nut out and putting in a longer bolt and a couple of nuts to use with that pin kit. I have the pin kit on mine and it works great but my frame was in good shape too. | ||
| Hammer71 |
LOL those seat pins are great, too bad they stole the idea from Saintly (a pervious member here) who made them and gave them away for free. Make the pins yourself, 3bucks. | ||
| Nobuell |
The other issue to consider is the fork oil. I did not change mine at 10K as recommended but changed at 19K. The handling was greatly improved. +1 on checking the tire pressure often. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
1. As you gain skills/experience your requirements will change. Mechanically, you'll see oil on the forks and legs and, eventually, that will make a difference in how the forks work. Rear tire wouldn't be a factor in what you've described. Set it to the manual. Copy of print out the settings page. Take a pen and the tools to a rough road (local highway has a rough concrete section and a 60mph limit). Keep doing runs until you get the smoothest possible. You should be good for a while. 2. Either the main suggestion or take it out and replace it. Easy enough, I had to do because the previous owner had done I don't know what to it. It's easy to cross but it's really not that complicated to do right. | ||
| Delta_one |
I had to re-adjust after I went on break from school to compensate for the 40lbs of books that I finally got to leave at home instead of carrying on my shoulders.  it made a huge difference everywhere not just braking and in the corners but highway cruising too | ||
| Iman501 |
Thanks for the ideas guys, im thinking im going to have the forks redone, im not sure if they were redone at 10k or not (im guessing no since the bikes first ownwer sold it to the second owner at around the 10k mark, and when i bought it from the second owner he never said he had the forks redone) and the bike almost has 23k on it now. While i do this ill probably do the wheel bearings as well. Are doing the forks something i could do myself (i dont have any specialty suspension tools or anything) or should i just pull them and take them to a susp shop somewere in town? | ||
| Iamarchangel |
If there's no trace of oil on the forks, leave well enough alone. If there's no trace of oil on the bearing's outer seal, if they're not obviously bad, leave well enough alone. Fork tools will run you a lot of money for a job you do hardly ever. Ducati and some other bikes use the same forks. Don't fall for the, oh, it's Harley, that'll cost you. Shop around. |
