Author |
Message |
Firebolt_man09
| Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 09:52 pm: |
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I am looking to see if i can change my front pads. I really don't have a lot of skill but i figure i can give it a shot. Anyone have any idea where i can find some insight as to how. Thanks |
Panhead_dan
| Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 10:04 pm: |
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This wisdom and many others reside in your service manual. It's a 15 minute job and it's easy to do. (you really do need a service manual) |
Buell1125craxlrose
| Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 10:05 pm: |
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you have to remove front wheel to get caliper of (axle has reverse threads) press in the pistons of the caliper the lightly prying the pads apart with a flat blade screwdriver, remove the hairpins that hold the pins in, remove pins, remove pads |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 11:20 pm: |
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NO! Don't remove the front wheel! It's about a 5 minute job, THE EASIEST bike I have ever owned to swap brakes! SM is a must... |
B00stzx3
| Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 11:30 pm: |
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Remove caliper, then brake assembly, remove and replace pads, put back on, put rotor back on, easyyy |
Gentleman_jon
| Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 09:08 am: |
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You do NOT need to remove/replace the rotor. You DO need to get a shop manual if you are going to work on your bike. Buells are relatively easy to work on BUT, because of their many original design solutions, conventional repair techniques do not always work properly. |
Bdb_csiii
| Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 10:46 am: |
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I agree with Gentleman_jon, very easy job, but do it according to the shop manual. Best investment you can make for your bike. |
Phelan
| Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 03:42 am: |
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Yup, easy job. I need to get an XB SM because of all the XB parts on my S2!!! I changed the pads recently and had no need to remove the rotor or the front wheel. I dunno how much slack is in the XB brake line, but there was plenty in my factory brake line (I reused it since I had to the HD M/C because of 1" handlebars) to slide the caliper down and around to get it off. I did, however, have an issue with a stripped pin in the caliper (I bought it used). I ended up drilling it out and boring out the back hole to fit a tuber style pin/wire setup. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 11:22 am: |
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Try a search, the info is in here and helped me do it before my service manual arrived. It is something along the lines of removing one of the caliper mounting bolts (on the fork leg), and loosening the other. Swing the caliper out of the way and grab the pads. Push the cylinders back into the caliper (if you need to use anything other than your fingers then the caliper needs a rebuild). Put new pads in. Swing caliper back into place and tighten the mounting bolts. Now the hard part is that I don't remember which of the two bolts comes out and which gets loosened. In order to do this correctly, you will need the correct size of hex bit for a ratchet, I could not do mine with a set of L wrenches. As far as easiest goes, not even close. Many Japanese bikes (maybe older designs) require only pulling a pin, lift the pads out, squeeze the pistons, drop the new pads in, replace the pin. If the pin is done right it is a no tools required job and takes seconds to accomplish. Might only work on 1 or 2 pot brakes, but pretty sure I've done it on 4 pot brakes. |
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