| Author | Message | ||
     B00stzx3 |
Well I been trying to figure out how to connect this pair of DDM 55w HID to the relay harness I bought on my 2003 Xb9R. Even had my pops, neighbor and couple buddies try. We have failed miserably. So I took a bunch of pictures hoping somone can help me out.... Never done HIDs before. I have read and consulted the service manual and pretty much scoured google looking for advice, read and reread many writeups, especially Jeepinbuellers HID install. We're all still stumped. Could ya'll lend a hand? I have no idea what goes where anymore. Pics- Heres the right side headlight wiring area (headlight bulbs removed)  Left side headlight wiring area  The thingamajig that has the 2 ground connections for the headlight bulbs.... what do I do with the 2 black box things?  The 2 ballasts  The 2 bulbs...where do the pair of red and black connectors connect into??  The relay harness!!!!! I lengthened the battery/power connectors (not in the pic). Its got the relay, fuse and 2 ballast connections, but where do the the pair of black and red connectors go? In the headlight harness? Dunno where and everyone else is stumped!!!  I also have another unused relay harness exactly the same as this one. So I know the harness connects to the battery, the bulbs connect to to the ballasts, the ballasts connect to the relay harness somehow, the basic. But aside from that we're clueless. Any help would be greatly, greatly, greatly, greatly appreciated. Have always done DIY with my bike and cars and so has my pops, but we are friggin stumped on this one!! | ||
| L8_br8ker |
In the Knowledge Vault section, Jeepinbueller did a great install write up with pics | ||
| Terrys1980 |
The white and yellow wires will be the control wires that function the relay therefore turning on the HID. They should go to terminal 86. 85 will be ground and 30 will go to a fused link from the battery. The red and black wires are the input voltage for the ballast and will need to go to the relay. Pull those back through the grommet and tie the red wire to the output terminal of the relay(87) and the black to the ground wire on the headlight harness. There is a possibility you will have to cut a couple of the terminals off and put on a different type.  In this pic 85 and 86 are backwards because they are using it as normally closed. In your case you need normally open. SO 85 ground and 86 control(yellow or white) Let me know if you need anything else and I hope I didn't confuse you anymore! Terry (Message edited by terrys1980 on June 13, 2010) | ||
| Rsh |
The simple way to connect everything up is using the headlight positive and ground wires and connecting them to the ballast input positive and negative connections.  Unfortunately, the stock wire harness is marginal, and connecting using the simple method may cause overloading of the stock headlight wiring. You already have the relay harness, you might as well use it. If you follow Jeepinbuellers wiring diagram, the connections are fairly straight forward. The mounting of the components and routing the wires is the hard part.  | ||
| Hogs |
Nice right up guys.... Was Wondering Terry, IF I wired in a toggle switch to the grounds of the Ballasts.. wd. that make it so I wd. have no power to any of the lights , Until the toggle switched is Switched?? Just thinking for High draws at times , Starting etc.. Don`t want the Lights getting any draw till up and warm say at idle?? Thanks Not sure what them Grounds / toggle switched Which ones.. I`m Not No Wire Whiz thats for sure...Thanks again | ||
| Terrys1980 |
If you were running 35W HIDs you could use the stock wiring but not with 55W HIDS. 55W is about 30% brighter than 35WHIDs and 35W HIDs put out double the light of 55W halogen. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
IF I wired in a toggle switch to the grounds of the Ballasts.. wd. that make it so I wd. have no power to any of the lights , Until the toggle switched is Switched?? Yes that should do it. If you are going to install relays you could easily install a timer relay instead of the toggle switch. | ||
| Hogs |
Hmmm Interesting, think I wd. just rather keep it to a simple toggle switch though...So grounds from the ballasts to One Toggle Done deal?? Or.... | ||
| Terrys1980 |
But you have to make sure your switch can handle the load. If you are going to use relays install the toggle switch on the control wire for the low beam, that way your not loading the toggle switch. | ||
| Hogs |
Thanks for that info... Was planning to run 2 relays not sure how to power them both from the same wire from the battery or... Heavy Gauge etc....??? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I built a 90 second delay circuit to drive my relay. So 90 seconds after the ignition switch is on, the lights kick on. That gives me enough time to start the bike. It was worth doing on the set of HID's I got, before I did it, maybe 1 out of 10 starts would kick the things off and they wouldn't come back on until I cycled the power. So something bad was happening. I think car alarm shops sell "delay relays" that will snap right in place of your stock relay. | ||
| Hogs |
I think I myself wd. still rather have 100 percent control of the Hids...So at any time I can Kill the power to them For what ever reason one might have... Thanks Though... Still Not sure IF I can run one HEavy gauge wire fused from the battery Split to run both relays for each Hid or need to run two separate leeds from the battery to the two relays... Like I Say I can tear a buell apart and put her back together , Just not sure on wiring for some strange reason or another LoL... | ||
| Terrys1980 |
110 watts at 14 VDC is about 8 amps and at 12 VDC is 10 amps. Thats not including the extra current the ballasts draw at start-up. Then you would need another 5-10% for a safety factor. I would suggest at least a switch that can handle 20 amps. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
You should be good with 1 10ga wire and jumping to the other relay. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
And while we are on this topic, I have 6 DEI 611T timer relays for sale. $15 shipped each. | ||
| B00stzx3 |
SUCESSS!!!!!!!!!!    Had my buddy come over... we were doing this janks for like 6 hours trying to make it work. Fixed the short, replaced the fuses, and he worked his magic.... when its better lighting I'll get some pics of the connctions. HUGE thanks to everyone who helped!!! Terry, RSH friggin thanks!!! Ran into only 1 problem though. My turn signals (1125R mirrors) and LED integrated tail are not working properly. The LED tail was flashing both signals at the same time, and the signals/mirrors... I turn em on and theres a buzzer and signal light is constant on the gauges... and earlier i heard the clicking but no signal lights. Have no idea whats going on with that... hope I didn't ruin the mirrors or my LED taiL!! | ||
| Terrys1980 |
SWEET and it sounds like your flasher may not be grounded properly. | ||
| B00stzx3 |
I found the flasher, above the projectors with neon green plug wire connectors into it. Do I need to replace it? | ||
| Wildman4x4nut |
You might need a LED flasher. That is part of what it sounds like is the problem. If you didn't add resistors when you did your LED's then the swap then you may not have enough load to make the flasher work correctly. So I would try a LED flasher first. | ||
| B00stzx3 |
GOT IT!!!!!!!!! Holy hell I'm an idiot. Well not thinking clearly, I forced the headlight wiring through the screw holes in the bracket with the fairing off, when I should've ran them under the bracket instead, pushing them through the pre-drilled hole I did in the fairing. So when I tightened them down, it severed them. Man I'm dumb. Thanks all!! I will post up pics of the connections in case someone wants to replicate what I did, and post up some pics of the "finished product" when I tuck everything away and put the fairing back on. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!! |
