| Author | Message | ||
     Pcmodeler |
Hey guys, I do actually have a service manual but haven't been able to find it since I moved after my divorce. Need to change the front brake pads. What does the manual suggest in terms of doing it??? I can't get it off the outer brake rotor it seems without doing one or the other. | ||
| Greg_e |
If I remember correctly, remove top mounting bolt, loosen lower mounting bolt, rotate bracket down out of the way. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
You should be able to remove the brake pad pin, pull out the old pads, use a paintscraper or equivalent to push the pistons in and install new pads. If you have problems pushing the pistons in remove the master cylinder cap. If that doesn't work line the wheel to where the caliper is center between rotor mounting fasteners. Remove lower caliper bolt and loosen top but do not remove. Remove old pads. Install inner pad first, then outer. Torque caliper bolts to 35-37 ft-lbs and brake pad pin to 11-15 ft-lbs. You might want to put some painters tape on the spokes to prevent chipping the powder coat. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
You beat me to it Greg but you have it backwards.  | ||
| Andymnelson |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/571420.html?1276210564 | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Thanks guys. It turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it would be. I did end up removing both caliper bolts in order to get the back one on. Off to get the bike inspected. Hopefully that was my only issue. | ||
| Greg_e |
I knew it was one or the other. My wheel was off for a tire when I did mine last fall. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Nuts, failed inspection. Rear brake pads need to be replaced too and for some reason the brake light works when applying the front brake but not the rear brake. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Here this should help with the rear.  | ||
| Greg_e |
Bolts #1 what? Which year is that for? When I did my rear brakes I think it was again pull one of the black bolts. loosen the other, pull pin, rotate out of the way and replace pads, put everything back together. 03 9R I may have pulled both pins and slide the entire caliper up off the mount, but I certainly didn't loosen the mount from the swingarm. Be careful with the little rubber boots on the bolts. FYI there is a little cut line in the pads that is the wear indicator (slot in the middle), if there is space showing, they are still "good" and should pass. If they are cracking and falling off the backing even if the entire slot is visible they will also fail. As far as the break switch goes, there are not too many probable causes. Bad switch or disconnected/broken wire. I would have to look it up before suggesting the correct procedure for testing the switch but it will require a multimeter or test light to check continuity. Are we dealing with an 03 9R? If so I can look this up when I get home tonight. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Yeah, 2003 9R. I just swapped out the rears. I had the wear lines on the front and the rear but Virginia law must be different on inspections. Shop told me it had to pass the nickel test (the same width as a $.05 piece). I did pull front and rear pins (but I could have probably gotten away with just pulling the rear) but I didn't pull off the mount. I do have a multimeter. Just not really sure where to test connections at. I really need to enroll in an electronics class. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
There are only two wires going to the switch. Set the meter to check continuity/resistance. Pull the connector, touch the leads to the terminals on the switch, function the rear brake pedal. I am offshore working so I can't look at my bike. | ||
| Nillaice |
that's the entire manual. | ||
| Nillaice |
i always end up removing the front wheel to get the job done. but thats just me | ||
| Glitch |
Posting of illegal material is forbidden. I'm feeling nice today, so you'll not be suspended. This is fair warning. |
