Author |
Message |
Nextcorner
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 10:55 pm: |
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I just replaced the gasket on my primary cover. Put everything back together, adjusted the clutch, adjusted primary shoe. I start up, hear it "clunk" into first gear, but the bike doesn't move when I let out the clutch. It is not the clutch cable, i checked that. HELP!! |
Nextcorner
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 11:15 pm: |
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Clutch release mechanism, adjusting screw? Maybe I turned it too far during install? |
Greg_e
| Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2010 - 12:25 pm: |
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That would be my only thought. You would need to put some pretty good force into clamping that screw down. Anything beyond what you can put with the tip of your finger and thumb is too much. Read then watch: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/548791.html?1270094694 |
Ulynut
| Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2010 - 06:32 pm: |
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Did you take it off the rear stand? |
Mikellyjo
| Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2010 - 07:45 pm: |
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@Ulynut...I was going to ask if maybe he forgot to start the bike. |
Sslowmo
| Posted on Sunday, June 06, 2010 - 03:53 pm: |
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Check the drive belt |
Afinley
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 10:42 am: |
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Yeah, if you can shift with the bike running, but not get any power to the back wheel, it is something in the final drive |
Nextcorner
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:03 pm: |
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Found the problem. It was the adjusting screw on the clutch release in the primary. I had turned it clockwise to about a "slightly under firm" tightness. To correct it, i backed off about 1/2 turn. |
Nextcorner
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:09 pm: |
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I'm not sure what to make of the lame "obvious" and "duh" comments. Not sure how people think that someone is savvy enough to take off the primary cover but yet dumb enough to forget to start the bike when they end up running into a unforeseen problem (clutch adjustment screw). |
Ulynut
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:52 pm: |
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I'm not sure what to make of the lame "obvious" and "duh" comments. Relax, it's just some good-natured chop bustin'. Glad you got it fixed. |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 04:03 pm: |
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quote:I'm not sure what to make of the lame "obvious" and "duh" comments.
You wouldn't be the first person that couldn't get their bike going because they never turned the kill switch to run. |
Nextcorner
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 04:10 pm: |
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It's all good. I took a look at the video, posted by Greg_e. But I would appreciate if someone had a little better description of how/where to adjust the clutch release adjustment screw. I just turned it back "clockwise" 1/2 turn and it worked. Not sure if it needs tweaking at all, or if I should just leave it as is. |
Nobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:15 pm: |
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1. Shorten the cable housing at the adjuster (under boot) until there is a large amount of play in the lever 2. Remove the spring and lock-plate 3. turn adjusting screw CCW until it lightly bottoms 4. Turn the adjusting screw CW 1/4 to 1/2 turn. 5. Install lock-plate and spring on the adjusting screw flats. If hex on the lock-plate does not align wit the recess in the outer ramp, rotate adjusting screw slightly CW until it aligns. 6. Squeeze clutch hand lever to max three times. This sets the ball and ramp mechanism. Adjust the cable (using cable adjuster) play at the cable ferrule to achieve 1/16" to 1/8" of play. 7. Lock the cable adjuster and install boot. 8. Install cover and torque to 84 - 108 in-lbs |
Brumbear
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:25 pm: |
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at least you didn't mod your ECM some of you guys remember that I am sure |
Greg_e
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:26 pm: |
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It's the lightly bottom out screw part along with push the lever back toward the rear wheel that seems to be the most important. When you watch the video notice that I'm spinning the screw driver with just my fingers and I check it a couple times before backing off that quarter turn. If it helps get a tiny pocket sized screwdriver so that you won't be tempted to over tighten that screw adjuster. I may have to redo that video, I have some close up lenses so I can get things in better focus, I can get anywhere from about 5 centimeters to infinity away, and I would take the time to use a tripod too. |
Nextcorner
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 10:11 pm: |
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Thanks guys. Piece of cake now. Brumbear, I did mods to my ECM last summer. Not sure what you mean though.... (about remembering)... |
No_rice
| Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 10:53 am: |
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someone drilled through their ecm MANY MANY times and then didnt understand why the bike wouldnt run. and they wanted to hotwire around the ecm so the bike would run once people told them what they did... it was awesome! lol |
Nextcorner
| Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 10:55 am: |
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Nice! I don't think I ever came across that one. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 12:06 pm: |
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How does one drill the ECM? Even on the R I can't think of the work that was being done that could allow you to drill it. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 03:22 pm: |
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It was a ninja on another board. Some tool tried to install a fender eliminator kit with a drill, big bolts, and cheap beer. |
Borrowedbike
| Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 06:00 pm: |
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Next, please not that the adjustment screw is BACKED OUT CCW until snug then turned in CW 1/4 to 1/2 turn. You were the other way in your description above. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 06:22 pm: |
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Greg - http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-6r-forum/14462-f i-light-need-help.html
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Nextcorner
| Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 06:47 pm: |
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L8_br8ker
| Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 10:37 pm: |
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what??, your not supposed to ventilate those? (heat builds up in there, those holes are there to let it escape) |