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S10darkascanb
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 10:19 am: |
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Hey guys noob to badweb here. I searched the archives a few hours last night but didn't find the info I needed exactly. I have a spare stock muffler which my uncle and I are going to modify. What I would like to know is where exactly is the best place to split these bad boys open. And how are the internals mounted? Do I need to cut off both ends or just the tail piece or should I lop off the front and back then split the seam? Any insight would be helpful. Also any idea how long the tuned tube should be inside? I am planning a single pass muffler dual outlets. I'm looking for sound primarily without killing the motor output entirely....thanks in advance |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 10:40 am: |
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S10darkascanb
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 12:30 pm: |
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Ok cool from that picture I gather atleast 2 cuts are in order....1 at the rear cap weld and one right after the valve |
B00stzx3
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 01:37 pm: |
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You can send it Special ops and have them make a badazzzz muffler for $285 with the stocker iirc. And it won't pop rivets my my Jardine does! |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 02:25 pm: |
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you only need to make one cut just in front of the outlet and about a 1/2" behind where the mounting strap goes. The rest is pressed in and can be pulled out. Its a pain but it can be done. |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 02:45 pm: |
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quote:The rest is pressed in and rusted together and can be pulled out.
Fixed that for ya! |
S10darkascanb
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 02:46 pm: |
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Thanks wolf that's the kind of info I was really lookin for |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 03:21 pm: |
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The ones I have done didn't have to much rust.... its when the have a big dent in the bottom.... that sucks |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 04:44 pm: |
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Ah yes, a big dent WOULD make that difficult! |
Drkside79
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 04:56 pm: |
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So is the 9 the same thing with no valve? |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 08:23 pm: |
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So is the 9 the same thing with no valve? yeah.... but for some reason the 9 pipe is harder to pull apart. |
S10darkascanb
| Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 11:36 am: |
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ok this is a pain in the ass.... Just saying. And i hacked it in 2 places 1 just wasnt working... Next weekend ill finish it when my uncle brings home the TIG. |
Odie
| Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 02:14 pm: |
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The 9 pipe internals are wrapped with metal whereas the 12 internals are just the bulkheads and the 3 internal pipes. 9 is much more difficult to get open for sure, at least most times. |
Zombie_lord
| Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 01:03 am: |
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do you have a 12 or a 9 ? see my posts on the cherry bomb hack. works well, but keep full length of muffler. in the end though, you really need to jump into the deep end, swap air filter, and re-program the ECMto gain the most from the stock setup. There are several places you can send your stock exhaust to get mod'd, which is probably the easiest and cheapest option. you will allways have to re-ampp the ECM profile however. |
Redbuell_really_gives_you_wings
| Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 01:25 am: |
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Here is my hack job Makes more power and noise compared. Those SS caps were welded on before i stick welded the cover back on. A mig is highly recommended If i was to make any other mods, it would be to fit or bend the inlet pipe to aim directly towards the centre out pipe. (Message edited by redbuell_really_gives_you_wings on May 25, 2010) |
Bratigan
| Posted on Saturday, May 29, 2010 - 09:08 am: |
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Here is a mod I made to an existing Special OPS. The guts were already out and I made an internal system with larger diameter pipes. My system uses the valve. It is awesome so far, no remap yet as only 4 cells are effected. Just go to this link and check it out. http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourse lf-Buell-Mods/Modded-XB12-Exhaust BR |