| Author | Message | ||
     Yzf342 |
i have a '04 xb12s and want to heat wrap the headers.... does anyone know how many feet of wrap i need for the pipes? | ||
| Greg_e |
About 40 feet of the 1 inch stuff, probably half that of the 2 inch stuff. Basically either a 50 foot roll of 1 inch or a 25 foot roll of 2 inch. DEI suggests the Titanium stuff on our bikes after I consulted with them about some issues I had. I have not rewrapped with the Titanium stuff yet. | ||
| Buford |
How do you go about wrapping the rear cyl pipe??? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
You should be able to get a couple wraps started put a SS tie wrap and slide it as far up as possible then continue to wrap down. Another alternative is rotating the motor down to remove the headers which was recently done by a member on here. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
DEI suggests the Titanium stuff I need to check into this, didn't know they made it. | ||
| Greg_e |
I have a roll sitting here for the next time I rotate the engine down, they sent it to me because the white paint all burned off my previous attempt so they are decent guys in my book! Next time I'm going to do the frame and airbox and seat as well as a breather hose/catch can. They told me the Titanium does not require or want any paint, you also don't need to get it wet to control the dust. It's kind of a greenish-gold color and I was told it does not change color with the heat like the other wraps. Oh, and it's not real Titanium. It is still some sort of glass and maybe lava rock, rated to 2000+ degrees which should be beyond the point where the headers get soft and balloon from the exhaust pressures. As far as wrapping goes, I suggest rotating the engine down and removing the header. I looked at my 9R for a long time and just decided I couldn't do a decent job with the header mounted. Consider some of the other things I mentioned in this post for when you rotate it to maximize work done on the procedure. (Message edited by Greg_E on May 08, 2010) | ||
| 1_mike |
As noted, I used most of a 50" roll of the 2" "Titanium wrap. As for the rear tube... I wrap it backward, or over itself one or two wraps, then push it back to the o2 sensor bung, then pull it tight and begin the wrapping. You will need to hold the first wraps tight until you get a few wraps in place. And also as noted, I use .032" stainless wire (safety wire), both in critical places and just to help secure the wrap in a few places. I wrap the stainless twice before twisting it. The new Tit. wrap appears to last longer than the original (white) stuff. It works well. Mike | ||
| Yzf342 |
Greg... what is the purpose of wrapping the frame and air box? I plan on using 2" wrap and can't see it taking more than a 25' roll according to my calculations as well... so 1_mike did you wrap the headers twice?? also i wanted to do black but not sure on the longevity before it fades/freys.... i am considering that titanium, i think it's the best made but not so sure on that color.... | ||
| 1_mike |
You can't "wrap" the frame and airbox But you CAN use sheet insulation material with adhesive on it. I also did the right side of the frame...from about the center up front to the right side corner at the rear. It's all but impossible to get to the left side with the engine in place, but if it's rotated for any reason..... The purpose....the same as wrapping the header...only backward....to help keep the heat "out" of the frame and airbox. As to my using most of the roll....no, no double wrapping, just had about 1/2" showing or about 1-1/2" overlap. Actually...at the collector...I did double the wrap that to help keep heat off of the oil lines. Mike | ||
| Greg_e |
Putting thermal barrier on the frame keeps the fuel cool, same with the bottom of the airbox to keep the air cool. Still not sure which exact product I'm going to use for those mods, definitely one of the sticky back barriers. And yes the Titanium color is a little odd and I'm not entirely certain about it. I think it may come down to function over form. It's a shame the white didn't work out, I really liked it with the white body plastics. I thought about the 2 inch wrap and decided that getting it tight around the bends was going to be difficult and sloppy and decided the 1 inch was what I wanted. Took almost an hour to get it nice and tight and looking good with the header off. And I think if I was to start from nothing I would find some stainless wire, the stainless ties don't really hold well because of the ball bearing holder design. You need the ball to slip back on a ramp to lock the tie and this of course allows them to loosen up a little. Also while wrapping I suggest a bunch of plastic cable ties be sitting next to you. Wrap and tie with the plastic, then when you are happy put the metal ties on next to the plastic. When everything is tight cut the plastic ties off. If you are wrapping an XB9 header you can wrap all the way you to the flange where it expands which gets wrap up between the O2 and the flange. I don't think this will work on a 12 header though since it is larger the entire way. | ||
| Greg_e |
1_Mike, That is too much overlap, they suggest 1/4 inch overlap which gets a little over half a wrap on the inside bends of the these headers. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Too much overlap and wrapping twice can cause your headers to crack from the heat. |
