| Author | Message | ||
     Delta_one |
I just had new wheel bearings installed in the fall before I put the bike up, now less than 1,500 miles later they are rusty where they meet the wheel. is this normal and I should just clean and lube them or is something wrong here? I just don't remember my last set looking this way. pics to follow | ||
| B00stzx3 |
IIRC you want to have the orange ones, not the black ones. Although don't think they should be rusting, thats kinda scary. Replace them dude http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/547274.html?1269875860 Look at Bluzm2 post in that thread (Message edited by b00stzx3 on May 04, 2010) | ||
| Ustorque |
The latest version of the wheels bearings have a black seal again(just to confuse people more). Rust on the bearing is one thing, rust coming out of the bearing from inside the seal is a bad thing. If it is just external i would not worry. | ||
| Jbird11 |
Yes, just to agree with Ustorque. The last time I needed bearings the dealer did black and I couldn't believe it.I was like "everybody knows they are supposed to be orange." They are aftermarket adnd 1/2 the price of OEM. That's what I was told. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Technically they are ALL aftermarket. Buell is not in the bearing-making business... The newest Buell part number bearings are black again, however. | ||
| Greg_e |
You could buy stainless steel versions from the popular bearing suppliers if it really bugs you. Boca should have several flavors in the correct size. | ||
| Delta_one |
  here are the pictures and it looks like they say KBC 6005DK on them. I think I will look into the boca bearings soon. thanks for the info (Message edited by delta_one on May 04, 2010) | ||
| Froggy |
Delta, your pictures will not work, you can't hotlink from Gmail. | ||
| Delta_one |
darn it! thanks froggy I never would have figured it out because they were there on my screen  they should be there now. | ||
| Greg_e |
It looks a little like the rust is getting in where they should be a press fit against the wheel, this would not be good. Really need the specific sizes and I don't remember what they are, someone did post them a couple months ago and Boca has several different bearings including ceramics. | ||
| Delta_one |
that's what I was afraid of... when I go back to the shop that did it what should I say? was it an improper install or the wrong/crap bearings? is there any way to tell, or should I just try to have them fix it? | ||
| Delta_one |
for additional info my bearings were replaced about 200 miles before I parked the bike in temperature controlled storage for the winter, the day I put it into storage I had it washed and detailed. (Message edited by delta_one on May 04, 2010) | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
I think it,s not that bad! If the bearings still run oke' ,you remove the wheel and clean the rusted edge gently with some scotch brite. and put a little grease on the cleaned area! Thats how i did and works well! | ||
| Greg_e |
My only concern is that the wheel may be damaged. The bearing normally fit tight enough that rust can not develop between the wheel and bearing. The only way to be certain is to pull the bearing and look to see how far the rust went. If it stops where it meets the wheel, then you are fine. If it goes deeper then you have a wheel problem. I would probably find the bearing that you want and keep them on hand while checking the bearing frequently to make sure they don't go bad. Then swap them out the next time the wheel really need to come off (tire, belt, etc.). | ||
| Delta_one |
Anybody know what the sizes are? Front rear and steering? I called boca and they have no idea, neither does my Harley shop. | ||
| Froggy |
6006 rear (2003-2009 wheel), 6005 front, steering are Buell specific. (Message edited by froggy on May 12, 2010) | ||
| Fast1075 |
Bearings are made of high carbon steel...it will begin to rust almost instantly if it is cleaned to bare metal and exposed to the moisture in the air. The mechanic most likely cleaned it off with some sort of solvent before he put the wheel back on... Wipe it down with oil and forget about it. | ||
| Greg_e |
Rear is 30x55x13mm??? Stainless: http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&i d=1302&n=SMR6006-2RS Hybrid Ceramic: http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&i d=16171&n=MR6006C-2BS/TP/C3_#5_UDL/SRL FULL Ceramic (on sale too) http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&i d=14595&n=6006-LL/T9/C3_LD_SI3N4 Front is 25/47/12mm??? Stainless: http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&i d=1872&n=SMR6005-ZZ Hybrid Ceramic: http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&i d=4249&n=SMR6005C-ZZ/C3_#3 FULL Ceramic (on sale) http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&i d=9227&n=6005_ZRO2_TP9/C3 You can go from a few dollars each to $200 each, but it looks like you don't get into the good stuff until about $40 each bearing which is where the stainless starts. | ||
| Hogs |
Whats wrong with the OEMS..Can buy sets of 4 from time to time on Flea Bay for like 20.00 bucks...Over 40,000 on my stockers and no problems at all????? Just don`t get all this on the wheel bearings..YEs the early 2003 black ones had problems, but thats all I ever heard??? | ||
| Delta_one |
yep I talked to boca after froggy posted the size up. I cant afford to do it right now but I will be getting the stainless ceramic hybrid bearing with their "LBT" bake on "lubricant", they will guarantee the bearings for a very long time. from what I was understanding I could spend 350 or so on bearings and not change them out for another 100,000 miles, if they fail boca will take care of it. thanks again for all of your help guys  (Message edited by delta_one on May 13, 2010) | ||
| Nobuell |
Delta one For for not much over $350.00 you can buy a new 2010 wheel and for the most part, solve the bearing problem. | ||
| 1_mike |
Boys....boys... Bare steel WILL corrode. I'd be willing to be that...in the pictures posted above...remove those bearings from the wheel....there will be NO corrosion between the steel bearing race and the aluminum wheel hub. The outer surface of the bearing race is protected by the tight contact of the wheel...there is NO protection on the outer edges....!!!! On the other hand, why do these bearing fail so regularly.? I had a squealing bearing in my XB rear wheel, it only had 10,000 miles on it. I have three Japanese bikes at near or over 100,000 miles....NEVER have had to replace a wheel bearing..! Plus all the ones I've had other than those three...never had to replace a Japanese bearing. Bad - Bearings Stators belts turn signals ECM's gage clusters Old fashioned handle bar controls ?????????? Mike | ||
| Greg_e |
The stockers aren't ceramic, that's what's wrong with them. With the loads involved I'm a little surprised that the bearing are not a little wider, the three bearing wheels were a fix to this problem though a more expensive higher quality bearing set might have solved it too. | ||
| Greg_e |
One thing to note, to keep the abrasive crud out of the bearings you need to run a nice thick grease (Boca has some nice stuff too) and service them every once in a while (every rubber change) which involves removing the shields and cleaning the old grease out, replace with nice fresh grease. Oil lets the stuff get in past the shields, the grease will push out and block the gap and prevent crud from entering. | ||
| Delta_one |
that's the 3 bearing rear right? I would like to buy wheels but it probably wont happen any time soon, 350 is for bearings front and rear. do new wheels come with bearings installed? |
