| Author | Message | ||
     Cbig |
I paid $43.54 for three quarts of oil, 1 formula + for the gears and a filter! I was pissed! Oil ain't that pricey! Harley and I are done. I'm not running out and selling my Buell and FXD(x) but my loyalty is gone for the s**t they've been pulling. I bought my first Harley product - a Buell M2 in '00. Put 46k on that one. Would have never thought to buy an FXD(x) had I not had a great experience with the M2. Smart idea killing Buell, that.That FXD(x) has 49k on the clock now. Bought a second M2 I put 16k on before selling and getting my XB12ss. I got about 113k on their stuff - servicing it and buying it. Used to be they would ream you good if you wanted a chrome doodad. Accessories cost you, but the stuff you needed to keep on the road was affordable. Oil was around 2-3 bux, signal lights for the M2's were 5 bux if you accidentally broke one. I think I paid 16 for the last set or brake pads I bought. Affordable, you know? They made good, reliable transportation, easy to fix. These days I'm payin thru the nose for their poor business decisions.Dunno what I will do when the warranty runs out on the xb and there's some 'lectrical stuff beyond me. I'm all ears for cheap parts sources... Rant over | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
buy you engine oil and filter at local car parts place.and go to hd for that one quart of primary drive oil. last year i scored a deal where they had an oil and filter deal at the parts store by my house.it was buy 4 quarts of oil and get a free filter.valviline 20/50 dino oil and then hit hd up for just the one quart of primary syn blend . | ||
| Greg_e |
I paid $7.50 per quart for Mobile 1 V-Twin this spring so I'm not all that different from your price once the stock filter is thrown into the mix. Yes I put this in both places. The Mobile 1 4T was a little cheaper and would probably do the job too. If you really hate it, switch to one of the Royal Purple oils. Or buy a 5 gallon bucket of Delvac 1 if you can find it. There are lots of alternatives discussed on several threads. I went with the V-twin because several stores stock it so it should be easily obtained when/if I need more. | ||
| Firebolt32 |
Dunno what I will do when the warranty runs out on the xb and there's some 'lectrical stuff beyond me. You come here. Not one problem I had with my 9R that couldn't be resolved through the book and BadWeb. Only time H/D touched my bike was to push it out the door the day I bought it. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
I called Harley last week to check on recalls for my bike. Today they called back wanting me to take a survey. So they asked a few questions regarding if I would refer a friend to purchase a Harley.I answered first off I called for a Buell related issue not Harley, and second since they closed down Buell I will say no I wouldn't refer anyone to buy a Harley. Then the next question was how would I rate the company? I answered that isn't a far question and Im pretty sure you dont want to hear the answer... | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
An Amsoil Preferred Customer would pay $51.94 for four quarts of Fully Synthetic MCV 20W-50 and a WIX filter delivered to their door. This would give them a one year/10,000 mile oil service interval for their engine and primary. Or, they could purchase a case of MCV and three WIX filters for $135.98, which would cover 3 years or 30,000 miles of oil services. Based on the numbers you provided, using the H-D branded oil you would spend $130.62 on oil services in just the first 10,000 miles- and $435.40 during the same 30,000 mile interval. This is assuming you're using the H-D 360 branded oil that has to be changed on a 3,000 mile interval. H-D's SYN3 semi-synthetic branded oil has a longer 5,000 mile interval and would lower the cost to $87.08 for one year/10,000 miles, and $261.24 over 30,000 miles. Either way, the H-D branded oil costs $35-$78 more over 10,000 miles, and $125-$300 more over 30,000 miles. Kinda disturbing, isn't it? In short, when using the H-D branded oil you will pay more (more than double) and get less- both quantity and quality. In fact, you will save money by using almost any other oil out there- mineral or fully synthetic. It's this kind of marketing BS that has gotten H-D into the predicament they're in, and it will likely cause their downfall. Just say no to H-D! | ||
| Nightripper |
go to autozone they sell mobile 1 v twin oil at $7.95 a qt. that is fine for your buell and can be used in primary and engine. One note I used mobile one 15w 50w in my sporty for years with no problems and only bought harley synthetic for the primary. | ||
| Andymnelson |
wait, so you went to a dealer and overpaid for oil and filter (and you knew it!), and then you came here to bitch about HD to us for it? I don't get it. I'm no fan of HD these days either, but I am so over the whiners... | ||
| Cbig |
I use primarily Harley oil bcoz years ago I remember problems with seals and the resin holding alternator wiring together traced back to non Harley oils. At 43k I tore the FXD(x) can chest apart to install an Andrews 26 can and gear drive. My chain shoes were close. When I looked inside things all looked pretty good. I have faith in the product but it has been a while since I bought it. Probably a year or two. Sticker shock it was. Generally pretty happy with the bikes' reliability and ease of service. Andy. .you may be sick of the whiners, maybe as sick as some of us are about whiners whining about whiners until it's their turn. | ||
| Jaylightnn08 |
screw harley, they took away are chance to mount the 2011 b2 barracuda! After reading that article and how it seems that one of the reasons harley 86'd buell was because buell became a REAL sportbike entity ! It seems they thought Buell riders would obviously graduate from a Buell to a Harley, boy were they wrong. If harley davidson fort myers florida were on fire, I would be the first one there with marshmellows and bud light/\ Justun | ||
| Greg_e |
As someone said in a different thread about oil, if use use pretty much any modern oil and change it fairly regularly your machine should look like new for a very long time. Now when you are three owners down the list, and the bike is 7 years old and newer had the gearbox oil changed, things may be different. Probably going to drain the 100 mile old oil out of the gear box when I do the clutch cable just to wash out any additional junk. Toss another $8 on that cable repair  | ||
| B00stzx3 |
Motul = $60 for 4 quarts.  Next time I buy online! | ||
| Swordsman |
Yeah, I'm thinking I spent about $40 for 3 quarts of the Mobil 1 V twin 20w50 and a good filter. That stuff was about $9 a quart at the time from Advance. I 'bout pooped. I can change the oil in my Mustang, which requires 6 quarts of synthetic, for less than $25. ~SM | ||
| Greg_e |
I think I got it on sale, but I think the normal price is now $8 at Advance, I know Autozone is $8. I guess it is an economy of scale and they sell a lot less bike oil than car oil. | ||
| Swordsman |
Well, I noticed there was a considerable price difference between their 20w50 and the lower weights also. Lucky me, I need the heavy stuff.  ~SM | ||
| Gunut75 |
Wal-Mart is $23 for 5 quarts of Mobil 1 right now. | ||
| Greg_e |
But that's the car stuff. | ||
| Sloppy |
I don't think the engine knows how many wheels are attached to it...  Mobil1 15/50 works great in these engines. | ||
| B00stzx3 |
@Gunut - can synthetic brands be interchanged? Someone on another forum posted about Wally world having Rotella for like $22 for a gallon or something. | ||
| Greg_e |
Rotella T triple protection which may not really be a synthetic oil from what I can find about it. The synth oil is the T6 version (or 6T) which I did not see at any of my local stores. The reason I bring up the auto oils is that all of them have the friction modifiers that may damage the wet clutch. There is a lot of noise about this issue and little to no proof either way but for now I'm sticking with cycle oils to be safe. There is also some concern about mixing different brands of oil, but again little know facts. Because not all oils are made the same, there could possibly be additives that do not play well with other oils. Probably worthless but it has been mentioned. | ||
| Swordsman |
I don't think the engine knows how many wheels are attached to it... ; ) Mobil1 15/50 works great in these engines. The "V Twin" stuff is the 20w50, and for some reason much more expensive once you take that next step up in weight. Looking at the chart in the owners manual, it seems like they recommend the heaviest oil (up to 20w50) that your cold temperatures will allow, so I always use the heavy stuff, and it costs a fortune. ~SM | ||
| Steve_mackay |
They sell the T6 at Wally World. It's what I use, and from what I've been told, it's also what the factory used for their test mules. | ||
| Greg_e |
Lucky, they don't sell the t6 here or I might have used it instead of the V-Twin. I didn't find it in any of the auto stores around here either. | ||
| Sloppy |
As long as the bottle says you can mix the oils, then you're welcome to do so. It's very rare to have such an exotic blend that it's incompatible. If you run an F1 team then I'd say you should worry about it... otherwise, just read the label. I've only run into ONE situation of incompatiabiltiy - and that was with GREASE, not oil! As for friction modifiers and the clutch, you have to remember that the Buell engine oil is not exposed to the clutch... think two stroke bottom end and it will all be clear to you. Also, those "friction modifiers" are typically used in LOW VISCOSITY EC oils, which 15/50 oil is not. So I wouldn't be too worried. But let's make this extra simple - as long as your oil meets the API and vis recommendations from your manual then you are fine! And there's no arguing that!  Stop worrying and start riding | ||
| Sloppy |
I knew I had it somewhere - scroll to the bottom of the page so you can see what the differences are among different oils according to this source. Enjoy... http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html | ||
| Greg_e |
Depends what you are putting in the gearbox, many are putting the same oil in the gearbox as the engine. But I guess when you put it that way, should be better to run the modern car oils in the motor and whatever special sauce you want to put in the transmission that is safe to use. I'm sure the friction modifiers would be just as good for the motor part in a cycle as in a car. Maybe next change that's what I'll do and put in a real gear lube for the transmission. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I use Valvoline VR1 - dino oil for now, will switch to full synthetic when I burn through a case of the dino stuff. The dino version is $2.99/qt and the Synthetic is $3.99/qt at Oreilly's a block from my house. It's 20w50 and a CD rated oil. Buell manuals call for I believe CF, CG, CH, or CI. The difference being what year's EPA standards the oil meets. CD oil meets 1959 standards and is allowed to contain 1959 levels of zinc, a very protective oil ingredient when being run in OHV engines. The levels of zinc allowed in oil have been lowered because when it's used in a vehicle that has poor ring seal, the zinc in the oil being burned eats catalytic converters alive - not an issue with Buells | ||
| Crackhead |
"The levels of zinc allowed in oil have been lowered because when it's used in a vehicle that has poor ring seal, the zinc in the oil being burned eats catalytic converters alive - not an issue with Buells " Doesn't the EU version have cats? | ||
| Kds1 |
buy your Amsoil in gallons instead of qts, it will save money....run it 2500 miles and change the filter and top it off...repeat till you get to 10,000 miles and dump it all and start over...you can't hurt the oil and the filter is what keeps it clean....this is only my opinion and my system so if it helps you then great... Kevin www.kdfab.com | ||
| Greg_e |
My Walmart finally has gallons of the Rotella T6 synthetic and they are only somewhere around $20. The auto stores still do not have the T6. |
