Author |
Message |
Chase12s
| Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 09:28 pm: |
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I just got a new clutch cable for the 04 xb12s since my current cable is causing oil to leak from the primary. It seems that the screw-in ferrule is broke of, but I'm not sure yet. I was just wondering, is necessary to remove the whole primary cover to install a new cable, or can I do it through the clutch inspection cover? |
Greg_e
| Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 10:54 pm: |
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Pretty sure you can do it through the inspection cover, or at least I intend t try. |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 11:09 pm: |
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Just the inspection window. Piece of cake, follow your manual and make sure to attache the engine side first, keeping the cable perfectly straight while threading it into the primary. DO NOT over tighten the end going into the primary or you WILL break it off! |
Chase12s
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 12:19 am: |
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I have a manual but I never can seem to find the procedure for replacing the clutch cable. Did they leave it out or something? |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 12:24 pm: |
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Do you have a owners manual or service manual? |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 12:31 pm: |
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Section 2.24 "Clutch Control" in mine. |
Teeps
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 02:22 pm: |
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What Andy says, and I will add this: Use a smear of Loctite thread sealer on the threads near the top of the adjuster. Fully seat the threaded adjuster by hand. Finish by turning the adjuster about 1/4 turn with wrench or until you feel it stop, to crush the o'ring. Do not side load the cable during the rest of the installation, lest you break the head off again... |
Macdiver
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 08:21 pm: |
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For the 05 xb9 the section in the manual is 6.3 clutch release mechanism. Since my post got buried in the archives, I'll give you another tip. The clip that connects the cable to the lever inside can easily fall into the transmission. My suggestion is to not let go the the clip until you have safely removed it from the cable and placed on the ground. If by chance you drop it into the transmission, I understand that a coat hanger can be used to fish it to where skinny fingers can reach it (after draining the fluid). Good luck. If I had not dropped the clip it would have been a 30 min job. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 09:16 pm: |
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Thanks, the info on the clip could prove useful. |
Chase12s
| Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 01:54 pm: |
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Hey Andymnelson, that section is strictly talking about the hand lever clutch assembly, has nothing to do with the primary cover. I found what I was looking for though. I think its section 6.2 |
Greg_e
| Posted on Tuesday, April 20, 2010 - 08:54 pm: |
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Whoever designed and implemented the engine end attachment should be made to do endless clutch cable replacements. That retaining clip is a seriously poor design which should have been much more user friendly for the future cable changes. I would hate to try and replace one of these on the side of the road. |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 11:23 am: |
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Huh, well my book has 3 page in Section 2.24 on the clutch- 1st page ever, 2nd page 2nd page primary side, 3rd page exploded diagram of primary side. Glad you found it tho! |
Xb9lover
| Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 12:10 pm: |
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i just replaced my clutch cable last year. its a piece of cake. that nut with the spring will pop right out and make sure u dont drop it! there will be a screw inside the middle of the nut that will losen the clutch in the primary and then it will slide forward much easier and the end in the primary should pop right out. install the new one and put the spring back on and screw the nut in and attach the handle. set ur tension so there is 1/8" gap between the lever and handle and ur good to go. it was my first time and it took seriously like fifteen minutes. maybe twenty. |
Rpm4x4
| Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 12:19 pm: |
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Be sure not to overtighten the cable into the primary. It will snap right off. I had to buy a second cable. Just snug that thing. Agreed, it is a piece of cake. |
T9r
| Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 12:21 pm: |
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Things to note: It is the Clutch Cover that you will be accessing the cable through, and you'll want to replace that gasket (25377-03A). Also be sure to keep the bike level. If it is on the side stand you will drain oil through the clutch cable hole in the primary case (most likely). Also since you have an 2004 you might want to upgrade your clutch cable retaining clamp (located in front of the engine) to the newer designed one. See this thread for further details: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/459969.html?1243040877 Best of luck. |
Xb9lover
| Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 12:27 pm: |
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i drained my oil anyways and changed it with fresh amsoil 20w50 clutch,motor,primary,transmission oil. i used to get a white foam around the clutch cover with the mobile 1 and the A+ harley stuff but not with this. this sh** is the bomb. new oil new cable. for 12.00 bucks a quart, might as well. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 02:11 pm: |
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Mine did not leak oil on a rear stand, but it was close. I also put on the new style retainer, makes a big difference in cable routing and is far better. When the clip flew off and went missing inside the cover I ended up draining out the 100 mile (and $8) oil so I could see what was happening. Kind of figured I'd get hosed on that part so had an extra quart waiting. Clutch feels a lot better, but it still disengages/re-engages too soon for my desires, hard to get a good feel for it way out at the end of lever travel where my grip is weakest. Might have to get an adjustable lever to move the action into a better position for my hands. |
Glitch
| Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 02:22 pm: |
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Greg, you can adjust that pretty easily. Open the clutch inspection cover. Take the spring off. Lightly bottom out the adjusting screw. Turn the adjusting screw out 1/4 turn. Button everything back up and test. Adjust again if it's not where you'd like it. It's very touchy, so don't turn it much at all to find where you like it. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 03:21 pm: |
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That's not really what this adjustment if for is it? I thought that if I ran the screw out farther it would have difficulty engaging the clutch. If not this I'll change the adjuster to where I want it to be. |
Glitch
| Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 03:49 pm: |
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You're not making a big turn on that screw, maybe a 1/16th-1/8th of a turn. Remember, it's very touchy. It'll affect your clutch lever and where it is when the clutch engages. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 09:21 am: |
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Need to make full 60 degree turns or the locking nut will not go on. |
Glitch
| Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 10:14 am: |
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OK will turn it just that 60o and not more. |
Chase12s
| Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 03:27 am: |
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Well, I got her installed and it was only slightly aggravating. I actually tightened it down pretty firmly and it didn't break, of course I was being careful , since the first broke. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 10:48 am: |
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I thought of a trick to keep the clip attached to the cable so you don't drop it... Put a small cable tie around the clip and the end of the cable so that the clip can not come off the end of the cable. A twisted piece of wire might do the same thing too. |