| Author | Message | ||
     Killroy134 |
Man I am not having any luck at all on tuning. I had to rebuild the bike after wrecking in November, the motor was taken out but NOTHING on it was messed with. I got the bike back to 100%, got it running and took it up and down the street. It just ran terrible. When I got back it was running really rich, and I had error codes 13 and 15 for the o2 sensor and the air temp sensor. I thought after tearing it completely apart and putting the used ECM that I would just load the stock maps reset the TPS and AFV and it would just run. I must have done something wrong on the TPS or AFV. I was really hoping to have it running well by this weekend. Do you have any advice? What would you do if starting from scratch? I basically loaded the stock maps, adjusted the TPS to zero then went a half turn past and zeroed it in ECM SPY. Turned the adjustment until it was reading about ~5.2 and it ran OK but still was rich. I thought I just needed to run it until it cleared out because it seemed gummed up. But it ran badly the entire time. Is it possible it was just too cold and never made it to 160C? I am also still unsure of the open loop vs. closed loop... Any info you have would be great.... I am new to tuning so am I missing something??? Supposed to be 55 and sunny Saturday and I REALLY want to ride! | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Those TPS numbers are just to get you close after a TPS reset. After a TPS rese,t on a warmed up engine, simply set your idle to where it belongs. YMMV | ||
| B00stzx3 |
Do you have the ECMYspy guide? I believe it was a PDF tuning-guide, can't find the link here but I can check on it at home later for ya. | ||
| Blake |
"adjusted the TPS to zero then went a half turn past and zeroed it in ECM SPY." Please find a service manual and follow the instructions there for checking, adjusting if needed, and "resetting" the TPS. The TPS voltage output when the engine is running properly at idle should be within a specified range. I don't recall what that was exactly, and it may be different depending on what year model you have. If I'm recalling correctly it was around 0.5V. Anyway, it sounds like you may not be following the correct procedure concerning the TPS reset. In most cases there is never a reason to adjust the TPS itself. The "reset" simply saves to the ECM the voltage output of the TPS coinciding with throttle fully closed condition. That is it. The only reason you'd need to actually adjust the TPS itself, the actual position sensor, is that if when you are done and have set the idle, you find the TPS output voltage falls outside the specified range. In that case, you would then turn off the bike, and adjust the TPS to read within the specified output voltage range. Then you'd back off the idle adjust screw so that the throttle can fully close and once again perform a "TPS reset" or "rezero". Then you'd once again set the idle and to be sure recheck the output voltage of the TPS. Done. (Message edited by blake on March 05, 2010) | ||
| Killroy134 |
I got it figured out over the weekend it was the O2 sensor. It was reading incorrectly and causing it to make incorrect assumptions when in closed cell learn mode. So it would run worse and worse. I put in a new ECM after wrecking last year, so had to load new maps and reset the TPS. I was not sure if my sensors were damaged after a hard wreck or if I was doing something wrong with the TPS, but I got it figured out! Just need to run the mega log and tune now. | ||
| Livers |
Sweet. Thanks for the update. |
