| Author | Message | ||
     Fireboltxb9r |
Just curious what any of you have encountered removing the muffler and header pipe on the XB's. I had my dealer remove to be ceramic coated and the labor to remove and re-install was over 5 hrs. They said the engine has to be dropped out of the frame. Sure seems excessive to me. I sure would like to know what Buell flat rate is on this job. I appreciate your comments.} | ||
| Fullpower |
ouch, that had to hurt. 5 HOURS. damn. the rear exhaust port studs are real tough to reach, it does look like the engine has to swivel forward to access. muffler comes right off, 10 minutes max, R&R. | ||
| Dbird29 |
It only took me 1 beer and 1 hour to drop the muffler.  No need to drop the engine though I did loosen the rear wheel to remove the idler pulley. DBird | ||
| Darthane |
Firebolt - the muffler is no mean feat, although unless you're really savvy you're supposed to loosen the rear axle and remove the idler pulley - it does take a while. And as far as I know they're correct, to remove the header does require the engine to be rotated down. The rear causes the problem. | ||
| Dragonbolt |
I did the same thing. Although I didn't go through the whole engine drop process. It can be short stepped in alot less than half the time, the dealer tech told me how to do it. Give me a call 920-233-7397 and I can instruct or email me at roryrrk@new.rr.com. It is such a waste to go through the entire engine rotation process. edited by dragonbolt on March 30, 2004 | ||
| Englishman119 |
Removing the header is a pain. You don’t actually remove the motor but you do "swing it down" while it hinges on the swing arm mount. That involves removing the air-box completely, disconnecting all the pipes and wires associated with the FI system, oil cooler lines and you will need stands and jacks to do it all safely. Some tell me they can swing it down in 45mins. Takes me more like double that. Doing it for the first time is more likely 2-3 hours. Shop manual is a must, but even this is missing a few do and donts. Muffler removal is much simpler and is confined to what you see - a few nuts and bolts. Personally I found taking the belt tensioner off is the only way to go and is no big deal. If your not mechanically minded or you don’t have bike stands and jacks, let someone else do the header part. My $0.02 119 | ||
| Dyna |
I have heard of a few Buell techs that can swing that motor down in no time at all. Nowhere near 2-3 hrs. More like 30 minutes. | ||
| Misato |
easy, dont drop the motor, pull the fan/shock out to get to the O2, then I had a small wobble/socket to get to the rear cyl studs. Then undo the 'tie' bars that bolts to the frame(3 spots I think), the one that holds the oil cooler on. 1hr tops | ||
| Spiderman |
or just use a sawz all to cut the rear of the pipe n two | ||
| Stoobr2 |
I managed to swop the headers on my 9s without dropping the enigne,it can be done,you just have to be patient! it still took a few hours from start/finish in a fully equiped bike workshop. | ||
| Henrik |
Maybe some of you, who've done this could collaborate on an alternative "manual" type description for this procedure. That would be a great thing to have and keep in the KV for posterity ... and for those of us, who may go through that at some point. Dragon, Misato, Stoobr2 ??? Henrik | ||
| Bud |
 That would be a great idée, because it’s I think the 3e time that people asked that question no pun intended, I often see very good info disappear in the deep and dark corners off the badweb here a link referring to header removal the on-official way http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/36208.html gr,B | ||
| Henrik |
Cool read Bud - thanks. Now, if you guys could take what Bud started, and explain further, add hints and tips, and maybe even a photo or two, and we could move it to it's own page and have it forever available  Henrik | ||
| Stoobr2 |
First you need to support the rear of the bike with a hoist,then I undone the top/bottom rear shock bolts then move the shock to one side (supported)I undone the cooling fan and moved that to 1 side,next the chin spolier/muffler came off. Righthand side,plastic infill strip (just below the bottom of the frame) came off, then undo all the bolts holding the oil-cooler bracket in situ,and let it hang loose *this give a little more space to enable the header pipes to be wiggled in/out. Then undo the header clamp bolts *you need to use a combination of a universal joint & an extension piece for the rears (wobbly sockets make the job even easier) sorry I don't know the proper name for them ? The sensor on the rear header pipe can be undone with a 22mm Crows foot tool. Then it's all done to patients, but BE WARNED the rear clyinder exhaust gasket is a NIGHTMARE! if your not carefull,it will come apart in your hands if your to brutal forcing it in. In the end I used a light smear of grease,and a socket of the right diameter to persuade it,front cylinder ain't much fun either despite being more acessable. Then just re-assemble as you took it all apart *remembering to loctite the necessary fixings. I hope this all makes sence? like I said the main thing is to be patient,the job can be done without the need to drop/swivel the engine forward,although some might find it an easier option. | ||
| Trojan |
A tip for refitting the muffler - When putting the fixing straps back on, fit them so that they can be undone from the left side of the bike instead of the right. That way you won't have to remove the belt tensioner etc next time you do it..........next week's tip - how to build box girder bridges, cure all the world's known diseases and achieve world peace  | ||
| Misato |
I have some pics http://www.xb9s.com/pics/nallin/nallin.htm | ||
| Henrik |
Ok, so now there are two great written descriptions to use as a basis along with Misato's excellent pictures. Now "all" we need is someone who's done this, to take the pieces and make one text document with photos with appropriate explanation (figure legend). Post it here for review and more tips and tricks. Make a .pdf file for the KV and it's all done ... right Henrik | ||
| Battleblue03 |
i have just went through this and its easy. just listen to everything that everyone said in this thread and you wont have a problem. My biggest problem was finding out to drop the motor down. This is a two man job to make it quick and easy. FYI to take off idler pull reduce rear spring load to first setting and then have a 250lb plus guy sit on the bike takes all the preload off the pulley. If you dont have any of these guys around i will be happy to volunteer, just gas money and some beer. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Hello everyone, this is my first time here and I was just curious if any one knows anywhere to get my headers to match the frame and stay that way. I have a XB9R. | ||
| Henrik |
Battle; shhhh, I'm really just trying to get one or two of the knowledgeable guys to volunteer to create a nice instruction for posterity - and for the many times this same question is going to be asked on Badweb Since I have no clue about this procedure I don' t want to jump into doing it myself. Henrik |
