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Lancruza
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 10:11 am: |
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I've got a new 09 XB12SS and I'm in the break in period. I was told by the dealer to not go over 2500 rpm for the first 100 miles and not to go over 3000 rpm for the first 1000 miles. I'm just getting started and I have about 150 miles on the clock. Trying to keep the bike below 2500 has been interesting. While riding along between 2000 and 2500 rpm the bike is surging slightly. Is this normal? I don't notice it as bad as I get closer to 2500. I also checked the oil and it's a little low. I've never had a new bike before so I was wondering if its normal for it to use a little oil during break in. I would guess that this is because the rings are in the process of seating. Thanks |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 10:20 am: |
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Right out of your owners manual. http://www.buell.com/om/99474-09Y_en/file-5.asp#hd topic001190
quote:The First 500 Miles (800 Kilometers) The sound design, quality materials, and workmanship that are built into your new Buell motorcycle will give you optimum performance right from the start. To allow your engine to wear in its critical parts, we recommend that you observe the riding rules provided below for the first 500 miles 800 kilometers . Adhering to these suggestions will help to assure good future durability and performance. During the first 50 miles 80 kilometers of riding, keep the engine speed below 4000 RPM in any gear. Do not lug the engine by running or accelerating at very low RPM, or by running at high RPM longer than needed for shifting or passing. Up to 500 miles 800 kilometers , vary the engine speed and avoid operating at any steady engine speed for long periods. Engine speed up to 5000 RPM in any gear is permissible. Drive slowly and avoid fast starts at wide open throttle until the engine has warmed up. Avoid lugging the engine by not running the engine at very low speeds in higher gears. Avoid hard braking. New brakes need to be broken-in by moderate use for the first 200 miles 300 kilometers .
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Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 10:23 am: |
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Also for checking your oil: http://www.buell.com/om/99474-10Y_en/file-6.asp#hd topic001324
quote:Cold Check (Pre-Ride) Do not allow oil level to fall below MIN mark on dipstick or sight gauge. Doing so can result in equipment damage and/or equipment malfunction. (00573d) Do not overfill oil tank. Doing so can result in oil carryover to the air cleaner leading to equipment damage and/or equipment malfunction. (00190a) Do not switch lubricant brands indiscriminately because some lubricants interact chemically when mixed. Use of inferior lubricants can damage the engine. (00184a) NOTES: An accurate engine oil check can only be made with the engine at normal operating temperature (Hot Check). See Filler Plug/Dipstick Location: XB Models (Firebolt Shown). Remove the oil filler plug/dipstick and visually check for oil in the tank. NOTE: If the oil pressure lamp stays lit after starting the engine, immediately shut the engine off. If oil is not visible in the tank, screw the dipstick back in and start the engine. Let the engine idle for 30 seconds then shut the engine off Remove the oil level dipstick and visually check for oil in the tank. If there is no oil in the tank, add oil in 6.8 fl oz 0.2 L increments. Screw the filler plug/dipstick in completely and remove to read the dipstick. When oil is present on the bottom of the dipstick, perform a hot check. Hot Check Ride the motorcycle for 10 minutes and 5 mi 8 km to bring the engine to normal operating temperature. On the sidestand, idle the motorcycle for one to two minutes. Turn the engine OFF. Remove the dipstick and wipe the dipstick clean. NOTE: Do not over tighten oil filler/dipstick cap. Screw the dipstick fully into the oil tank. See Oil Level Operating Range: XB Models . Remove dipstick and read the oil level. Below the lower line: Add only enough oil until the level reads between the upper and lower lines. Recommended viscosity depends upon ambient temperature. Refer to Recommended Engine Oils. Between the upper and lower lines: It is safe to operate the motorcycle. At (or above) the upper line: Drain oil until the level reads between the upper and lower lines. Screw the dipstick fully into the oil tank.
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Ducbsa
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 01:23 pm: |
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4000 rpm is not much restriction. I got a chuckle while bringing my '07 home when I saw that 4000 = 80 mph. |
Lancruza
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 03:12 pm: |
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Thanks Froggy for the help. The rpm figures I were referring to were from a sheet of break in rules given to me by the dealer where I bought the bike. These are slightly more conservative than the owners manual. How about the surging? Do you know if that's normal? Maybe surging is not the right word. Let me see if I can describe it a little better. Between 2000 and 3000 rpms the bike is not smooth. If I am going down a level road and I am holding the throttle in a position where as to maintain, lets say 2600 rpms, the bike feels like it is being run by a governor. It kind of lurches a little then backs off, then a little lurch, then backs off again. If I am giving it gas through the 2k to 3k range, it's a smooth acceleration. Only when I am at a cruising rpm does it do this surging or lurching. Thanks for your replies. (Message edited by lancruza on January 20, 2010) |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 03:33 pm: |
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That sheet might be the break-in instructions for the older models with the different motor, or possibly for HOGs. In stock form, the bikes don't like to be run much below 3000rpm. Much of it is due to EPA compliant fueling. If you are like me and spend most of your time at low RPM's, you can make modifications to improve it. I can run down to about 900rpm without too much fuss. |
Buellconvert
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 03:48 pm: |
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My 09 XB12SS is happiest if I keep it at or above the 3000 mark. As for checking the oil, it is hit and miss for mine as far as even seeing it on the dipstick half the time. I am very particular as far as adding the proper amount and I even measure the quantity when I drain the oil just to make sure I haven't lost any. Just a heads up, when you check the oil and it doesn't register on the dip stick it doesn't mean it is low. |
Lancruza
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 03:59 pm: |
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Hey Buellconvert, Excuse my ignorance, but, if it doesn't register on the dipstick and the level isn't low, then what good is the dipstick? Thanks for your help. |
Buellconvert
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 04:08 pm: |
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My friend, that is my question as well. That is why I am so particular with verifying the amount I add and the amount that is there when I drain it. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 04:41 pm: |
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The 08+ models are harder to get an accurate reading on due to the changes in the oiling system. If you use the instructions I posted above, you shouldn't have any issues. The key is to be consistent. If possible, check it in the same spot every time. Honestly, oil level isn't critical. Check it once in a while but don't stress over it, just add a little if you think it needs it. |
Doughnut
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 05:02 pm: |
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I have a question regarding the 09 Ss. is the stock electrical system up to having a gps, heated grips, and led lighting added? |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 05:07 pm: |
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Yep |
Redbuelljunkie
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 07:59 pm: |
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I was told by the dealer to not go over 2500 rpm for the first 100 miles and not to go over 3000 rpm for the first 1000 miles. Following their recommendation you might never complete break-in. I've never had a new bike before so I was wondering if its normal for it to use a little oil during break in. I would guess that this is because the rings are in the process of seating. Unless you put load on the engine the piston rings won't seal properly and you will end up with a permanent oil-burning issue. Additionally, are you aware of the importance of varying engine rpm? It would be nearly impossible to do trying to stay under 3,000 rpm. Follow the manual (as posted by Froggy above) and make sure you get on the throttle and put load on the engine to ensure the rings seal- just stay under the rpm limits as stated. |
Ninefortheroad
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:14 pm: |
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MotoMan... With a little bit of caution on the revs! Get the oil (and filter) changed out way early, can't hurt! |
Fahren
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:16 pm: |
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Doughnut, those items are among the lowest current draw accessories you could name. Biggest of those is your grips at about 3A, or 36w max. No biggie; just set it up with a relay so you don't leave the bike and forget to turn off the grips. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:26 pm: |
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Or you can just tie them into the ECM controlled accessory line. |
Spdrxb
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:51 pm: |
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Hey there Lancruza your surging problem might be caused by loose primary chain. It should not be loose that early unless it was loose to begin with. The bike does not like low speed low rpm putting around especially with a loose primary chain. Mine started doing that at around 500 until I tightend up the chain.No more surge. BTW check out the knowledge vault for oil checking posts(lots of opinions but good reading). But following above here should cover it |
Saratoga
| Posted on Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 11:46 am: |
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The surging is normal between 2k and 2.5k. The oil level reading all over the place on an 09 is normal also. Have the paper towel in your hand and be ready to instantly check the level once you shut it off... the oil drains back into the engine quickly. |
Ridesinnm
| Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 12:33 am: |
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I have a new 2009 XB12SS, and went through the oil checking headache. I'm most comfortable checking it immediatly upon shutting the engine off after it is hot, and letting the engine idle 1-2 minutes on the sidestand, or just checking it while still running. Mine seems happiest if I keep it at 3000 rpm or above. I looked at Buells for years before taking the plunge. It has exceeded all of my expectations, I have about 1300 miles on the clock. |
Fahren
| Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 12:52 pm: |
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Or you can just tie them into the ECM controlled accessory line. These tap connectors are slick: http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html |
Froggy
| Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 01:03 pm: |
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Those do look nice. I have had bad luck with those Scotchlock connections and having them fail and break the lines, I'm curious how these stand up. |
Vospertw
| Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 02:33 pm: |
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"Those do look nice. I have had bad luck with those Scotchlock connections and having them fail and break the lines, I'm curious how these stand up." Froggy, I've been using some on my DR650 where I added an aftermarket fender eliminator and new license light. No problems with them (probably 2 years and 5-6 thousand miles), even offroad. Use the correct size and I don't think you'd ever have problems. Nice to be able to easily disconnect them as well. |
Fahren
| Posted on Saturday, January 23, 2010 - 10:06 am: |
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True. The posi-taps can be taken off, and all you have in the original feed wire is a tiny puncture, easily sealed. No re-wiring or splicing needed, since it leaves the 12V wire intact. |
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