| Author | Message | ||
     Vospertw |
All, Picked up an 09 SS on Friday - what a blast to ride! I have a service manual on order and have been working through the knowledge vault and generating searches; still looking for some answers. If you can answer these before I can find 'em, I'd appreciate: 1. Engine Oil - not to start an oil thread but think I'll use a diesel synthetic in 15W40 like Shell Triple T, etc. Any problems with this idea? 2. Tranny Oil - what is the recommended weight/classification? All I've found in the owner's manual is that the HD oil is recommended. Don't have a problem using it - it's cheaper than the Redline I put in my BMW - but would like to know the specs. 3. Appears there is no online parts fiche so planning to order the parts manual. 4. Is the electrical diagnosis manual worth getting? I guess the question is "would it help the home mechanic or does it require special diagnostic tools, code readers, etc.?" 5. I'm planning on doing the first service myself; I'm no expert mechanic but have done all the work on my DR/KLR/SV650 and R1100GS and didn't look like anything complicated. Bad idea? 6. I saw a note about the oil drain plug torque value being lower than stated (12-15 ft-lbs?). Any others to be aware of? 7. What's the best way to get the warning sticker off the airbox cover without scratching it? 8. Oil Check - is there a time period involved? Not sure if there is a wait time before checking after engine shut-down. I'm assuming for accurate trend analysis, the same wait time should be used each check. 9. Breather reroute - is that still a mod needed for the 09? I saw a thread on it earlier but haven't found it again to see if there were particular years or if it pertained to all XB's. Like I said, still trying to locate all of this myself, which is good because I usually run across 3-4 other cool facts in the process... but any help would be appreciated. | ||
| Froggy |
1, The service and owners manual has the details on what letter grades of oil to use 2, I just use the HD Formula+, as its not expensive and you only need a quart, plus some other oils (GL5 Gear oil) have been linked to stator failures. 3, Correct, but the Buell manual is steal at $48 and is superior to most other brands. I still would like an online version. Oh wait, I got half the catalog memorized anyway  4, I haven't needed it yet, but there is a lot of cool info in there 5, The Buell is one of the easiest bikes on the market to service. Hell the oil filter is right out in the open an easy to access. 6, Drain plug is good and snug in my book, no need to torque it. Search for the Oil Change picture guide that I made a while back. 7, Heat it up with a blow dryer or let it sit in the sun, and just peel it. Use gunkoff or similar cleaner if you have residue. 8, Look at the 2010 owners manual online, it has a new procedure for it that I recommend. 9, Breather reroute applies to all years. It isn't necessary, but it does help smooth out low RPM riding. | ||
| Nik |
1) Rotella isn't available in a 15w40 synthetic. The 15w40 'triple protection' stuff is group II dino. Good stuff though. The owners manual recommends an API 'C' heavy duty diesel oil and I've just been using whatever name brand dino was on sale (Rotella, Delo, Delvac..) and have 53k miles so far. The diesel oils have really good additive packages for our engines; dino, synthetic, they're all good. 2) I always just use formula plus. Somewhere on here someone sent a virgin sample to a lab to be analyzed and it wasn't motor or gear oil. Hydraulic oil maybe? I don't remember. It was weird... 6) I've found pretty much every torque spec in the manual, aside from things like the axles, to be high. When torqued as specified the fasteners will stretch, and maybe that was the intention. Retorque an old bolt a couple times at the Buell recommended torque specs and they will break. My advice is to develop a good feel and not blindly use a torque wrench on everything. Axles, torque wrench; drainplug, not so much... Also, invest in locktite. | ||
| Only1beard |
Nik That grade oil is ok for these engines. 20/50 too thick or why the change??? Educate me on this one. Must be the ratings and classifications. ( API C ) | ||
| Only1beard |
Some notes I took. BUELL Part numbers: Take the SPRING PLATE PN 37977-90 out and throw it away !!! Replace it with two STEEL PLATE's PN 37913-90 and one FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 !!! THIS MAKES FOR A BETTER LONG LASTING CLUTCH !!! Try this before spending the BIG $$$.$$ on an after market clutch !!! YOU NEED A STRONGER "SPRING,diaphragm" too !!! "YES" it will help and make for a better longer lasting clutch ... Do the "PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT" before you buy the SPRING,diaphragm !!! Rivera Engineering www.riveraengineering.com (562) 907-2600 Part Number PC-011-C or the strongest they have now !!! Right side scoop: M0851.7AA - Large Outer M0852.7AA - Large Inner M0854.7AA - Small Yes ... they both bolted right up. I bought 3 #10 x .5 inch stainless hex cap bolts at ACE - you need them to attach the Large Outer to the Inner. i have both scoops too for my xb9sx, so i'll chime in. you can order the parts through your local harley/buell dealer. the larger scoop, p/n M0851.7AA(outer scoop)& p/n M0852.7AA(inner scoop) requires 3 screws, p/n AN1005.3FSS(my dealer had them in stock or you can get them at any hardware store). the smaller scoop, p/n M0854.7AA does not require any additional hardware, it just uses the 3 original torx screws from your stock right scoop. Buell page numbers. M1907.1AK XB12X/XT, Non-Cat Exhaust $119.95 M1907.1AU XB12XP, Non-Cat Exhaust $119.95 Oil Numbers: The K & N filter is HP-1003 and their web site now references a KN-177 for the XB series. The HP-1003 number cross references to the Fram number and Mobil number. Bosch 3311 Mobil 1 M1-103 K&N HP 100B STP 4967 AC Delco UPF 1233 The K & N filter is HP-1003 and their web site now references a KN-177 for the XB series. The HP-1003 number cross references to the Fram number and Mobil number. Oil Capacity5 2.5 qt. (2.4 l) Race ECM 82007-05Y Fits '05-later XB9R and XB9SX models. $209.95 Buell XB.com Third Eye Bar End Bicycle Mirror $11.53 Amazon.com | ||
| Nik |
I don't really understand what you were asking. 20w50 is fine but not available in Rotella, Delo or Delvac. There's a much bigger oil filter cross reference list elsewhere on the site. (Message edited by nik on January 10, 2010) | ||
| Only1beard |
I just thought maybe there was a better oil for my engine. | ||
| Vospertw |
Froggy - I'll pick up the other manuals, I'm sure they'll answer a lot of questions. Thanks for the advice on the sticker. Simple, but with all the warnings about chemicals, etc. I didn't want to screw it up on the first weekend. Nik - nice catch on the Triple T. I had been looking at their T6 first and mistakenly thought Triple T was synthetic as well. The quote from the owner's manual that you posted got me thinking about the diesel oils. Obviously the engineers want those additive packages for whatever reason - some bikes don't (WR250R specifically says DON'T use diesel oils). Got 850 miles to figure it out... EDIT - I see Amsoil has a fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil. 1beard - thanks for the part numbers. I have to get smarter on the clutch stuff - didn't know there was a problem. As for the RSS, I'm assuming that I would order the larger inner and outer (and fasteners)? When I was looking at the Uly I did see the posts about the rider comfort package, but I'm assuming that isn't an apples to apples comparison to our bike and maybe not applicable. I noticed there is an ECM flash that comes as part of the comfort package - is there any ECM flash required when adding the larger scoops? (Message edited by vospertw on January 11, 2010) | ||
| Nik |
I have 53k on the stock clutch and was unaware there was any problem also... | ||
| Froggy |
I have never heard about a clutch problem either The Right scoop: Don't worry about it for now. Put some miles on it, and if the fan bothers you the scoops will help. As for the oil, I run Amsoil 20w-50 Motorcycle synth during the warmer months. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
XB Oil Filters http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AuQkhTuQcu z_dEpkN05rMDFuVHYtUE5tMC15WEpNUkE&hl=en | ||
| Vospertw |
I've always generally stayed with OEM filters, especially for oil (except the KLR650 filter - poor quality). Are the OEM filters pretty good for these bikes? | ||
| Jraice |
Froggy whats this new 2010 oil check procedure? I check right after shutdown and just try to have some on the dipstick hash marks... doesnt have to be "full". Also to the OP, let it break in on dino, change it a few times (and filter) and then you can switch to a full synthetic, been there done that. After my rebuild (warranty issue) I just started using syn3 and have been happy with it. Easy to get, not super expensive and I change it every 2,500 miles. Also for tranny, syn3 didn't shift great. Formula + works well. | ||
| Froggy |
They are excellent. Many of the aftermarket ones, while fitting, have too high of a bypass pressure and are not recommended for the Buells.
It is in the 2010 owners manual, links on Buell.com and on the main XBoard page. | ||
| Guell |
Hey, the clutch thing only pretains to the tubers i believe, the xb's dont have the grenade plate in them. | ||
| Vospertw |
Jraice - thanks, I think that's the way I will go on both engine (Syn3 eventually) and tranny (Formula +). Froggy - thanks for the info on the 2010 check, that helps. Guell - thanks for the clarification. Always fun but worrisome starting with a new model and trying to learn it all. | ||
| Jraice |
Sounds good... My bike seems to like it, not much differene from full synthetic though... Ran the Syn3 at the track, beat the crap out of the thing and it had no problems. Run the regular dino for a little while though... give it a good solid break in. I didn't change it very often brand new but after the rebuild I did a change after a few hundred miles. Some people do it at 50/150/500/1000 to make sure there is nothing bad floating around in the oil... Thats a whole nother thread though. |
