| Author | Message | ||
     4280ray |
Hi Guys and Gals, I have an 05 xb12r and my front rotor has a lot of brake deposits on it. I am thinking of buying and using a disc brake hone on it but am not sure of the proper method of use. Do I need to lubricate the disc? will it work in a high speed power drill and has any one had great success with this?. I am also going to change to the lyndall gold pads to prevent it happening again in the future. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Ray | ||
| Roysbuell |
When I would switch between street and track compounds on my Mustang I would just use light sandpaper in circular motion around the disks. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Ray, The way to use the hone to best effect is to remove the rotor. Then place the hone in a drill press. Then have a friend rotate the rotor slowly while you apply the hone with light to medium pressure. I clamped a couple of small pieces of wood to the drill press table to act as a guide for the inside of the rotor to make it easier to move and hold the rotor in place. DO NOT USE ANY LUBE. If the problem is only deposits, but not grooves or uneven wear on the rotor, you may not need to remove the rotor. Just clean the rotor with a rag and brake cleaner, then sand by hand with 220 emery paper. Be very careful with the brake cleaner: it will damage paint on the wheels, so spray it on the rag, not on the disc. Actually, if you are going to Lyndall Golds, they may clean the rotors themselves, if the deposits are not too heavy. The original Lyndall Golds came with instructions to break the pads in by doing 10 hard stops from 20 and 40 miles per hour, ( or something like that). Al Lighton told me that that break-in while no longer required, is still a good idea, and will help clean off old deposits. That what I did when I replaced my original Golds after 15000 miles, ( perhaps a bit too many:-). | ||
| Andymnelson |
If it's just deposits, then you honestly don't need the hone or the Lyndahls. The deposits are caused by the brake dust getting "cooked" onto the rotor when you sit stopped at a light with the front brake clamped down. Wanna see if that's the case without spending any $$? 2 simple steps: Step 1: Simply sand the rotor down (be VERY careful using any cleaners on the rotor while still attached to the wheels, especially if the wheels are powdercoated) to remove the deposits. Step 2: ride a couple of months with 1 simple change in habit- use your rear brake to hold you while stopped at lights and such, instead of your front. I'll bet this takes care of it for you. I ride pretty hard, and use my brakes hard and never have an issue with stock pads. I now use EBCs and they work great with no pulsing as well. | ||
| Sloppy |
Talk about complicating a problem.  Get a scouring pad like you use to clean your non-stick pans in the kitchen. Use hot water and soap. Dry and follow up with a bunch of CLEAN PAPER TOWELS (don't use a rag) and brake cleaner. When the paper is clean, your disc is clean. Typically takes about 4 towels per side. When you use brake cleaner, spray on the paper towel, not the brake to prevent overspray issues. Cheap and effective! | ||
| 4280ray |
Hey guys thanks for the advise,I tried the brake cleaner and it made no impact at all. Perhaps the stuff we get here is pretty weak?. I will try another brand before I go down the disc removal and hone path. | ||
| Jdemoxb9r |
I used brakleen. followed sloppy's procedure. worked good  |
