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Jakecheez
| Posted on Saturday, September 05, 2009 - 09:21 pm: |
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IMG_0742.JPG My force pipe was just re-welded (just on the mounts that hold the underslung portion or the pipe to the bike). This cost me $140 the pipe was mounted on my bike and they dyno'd it for a few hours (also removed the PC3) when the shop took it on the road it lasted 15 mile and the welds broke. I don't want to remove it, re-weld it and re-install it if it will break in another 15 miles. Short of scrapping the pipe- do you guys have any ideas? I want to keep the pipe, just looking at options for mounting or somthing like that....... What are your thoughts? |
Ochoa0042
| Posted on Saturday, September 05, 2009 - 09:53 pm: |
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bad welds, maybe they wernt using a high enough rod grade |
Prowler
| Posted on Saturday, September 05, 2009 - 09:59 pm: |
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You need to spread out the loading on the weld joints. If you get it welded again, have the welder add a couple of gussets off the sides of the mount to eliminate the stress riser in that area and you might want to double up on the thickness of the mounting strap also. If you can find a good fabricator he'll know where to add material (just using common sense works usually) |
Bads1
| Posted on Saturday, September 05, 2009 - 09:59 pm: |
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The Force pipe has long heritage of cracking. Don't know what to tell ya. I've seen several crack dating back to 99. Most cracked. Some survived but that was few. |
Jakecheez
| Posted on Saturday, September 05, 2009 - 11:10 pm: |
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Prowler- great idea! Simple, it one of those times when "I shoulda thought of that!!!" goes through my head. The welder was recomended by a fellow biker (he's got a sportster with a force pipe) Thanks guys, I'll let you know what happens. |
Iamarchangel
| Posted on Saturday, September 05, 2009 - 11:34 pm: |
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Picture didn't come up so I don't know what it looks like. That's a fair bit of money if you just brought the pieces in. Did he have to weld it in place? A welder should be able to marry the two pieces so they are one, that's welding. Brazing is gluing. The join will break. It should not break at the join on a weld. Make sure there are no sharp edges or corners. What can you do? A file is your friend, so is a drill. I don't know how long the mount is but can you drill a small hole in it? Then radius the hole with the file. Another option is file a waist in the mount. Make sure the filing stays smooth and no sharp edges or corners. A gusset can help support the bracket. Again, radius or hole it if you can and no sharps. |
Pogue_mahone
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2009 - 12:17 am: |
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ahh welding.with thin steel it makes a nice hard spot (the weld) and it usually cracks on either side of the weld. and gobbing welds on top of welds wont do.cobble it back to one and go shop for a new one.problem solved |
Iamarchangel
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2009 - 03:02 pm: |
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There are several ways of getting around that hardening. At $140 dollars, the welder should know how. Until we actually see the pic posted, we can't tell if it's the weld or the part. |
Jakecheez
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2009 - 10:16 pm: |
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I dont have a pic of the fresh break, only the origonal breaks (before i paid $140). I'm outta town untill Friday, but I can email pics of the origonal break to you guys..... you think, it could be somthing that i could bring back to the welder? |
Jakecheez
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2009 - 10:19 pm: |
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oh yeah, I just brought the pipe in alone for the origonal $140 weld. then spent $120 in wrap and $120 install and $400 in tuning.... |
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