| Author | Message | ||
     Er_rn |
I've got 10,800 miles on my XB12s is it time to change plugs? If so..... any one wish to share opinions on spark plugs? The ones listed on the 'knowledge vault' any good, ie; NGK-DPR9EA-9 cool. Also, any other maintenance at this mileage marker? No problems thus far - just an oil leak I had fixed last year and oh, and tires. | ||
| Vasiliy_ru |
Yeah, Plugs have to be changed in according to Service Manual. | ||
| Vasiliy_ru |
Here you can find all what you have to do! http://www.buell.com/om/99474-05Y_en/file-13.asp#h dtopic000090 | ||
| Edstevens |
Torquemaster spark plugs. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Denso Iridium IUX24 is an excellent choice | ||
| Jraice |
At that mileage you need to do all the usual stuff from the 5000 plus critical fastener check and front fork oil. | ||
| Buford |
Where can the torquemaster plugs be purchased? | ||
| Sloppy |
WARNING ON TORQUE MASTERS. I've run them and they don't hold true to their claim of increase power or mileage. Ran them on the same dyno, same day, same operator - NO CHANGE in power. Ran them neck and neck over 3,000 miles - NO CHANGE in mileage. Save your money - I can't recommend them. I like NGK's for their quality, longevity and price point. I use a "cold" set during the summer (105+F)and switch to the "normal" set during the winter. | ||
| Nextcorner |
I'm not a Super Technician, but how can a plug create more HP than a different one. When a plug sparks, the air/fuel combusts. That is it. The same myth applies to multi tip plugs. When the charge is sent to the plug, the spark will occur at the path of least resistance, there are not 2 sparks. | ||
| Oxygen151 |
NGK's all the way. Regulars actually produce a brighter spark than the Iridiums. The iridiums just last longer. In a 12 NGK now recommends an 8 heat range and gapped to .40. There site still does not list this, but if you email them, they can verify this. DCPR8E is the NGK plug number. (Message edited by oxygen151 on August 10, 2009) | ||
| 1_mike |
As Next says... For the most part....as long as the plug is new...there ain't a horsepower difference in the bunch all stacked up against each other. Some may last a little longer, but that's about it. It's just a thing that helps create a spark. Mike | ||
| Ourdee |
I would hazard a guess that indexing the plug so that the open gap faces the intake valve makes the most difference. | ||
| Sparky |
Note to Sloppy: what you say may be true, but the advantage goes to Torque Master Original 360 degree Standard gap plugs when you consider the life of the spark plugs. I'll guarantee you that the Torque Master plugs will out perform yours after 100,000 miles. | ||
| Buford |
How do the HD plugs (12R10A?) compare to the DCPR8E's? | ||
| Firebolt32 |
I use the Denso plugs. Anything that sparks will do.... | ||
| Oxygen151 |
The regular NGK DCPR8E's are much better than the stock HD plugs. | ||
| Stevenc150 |
+1 on the NGK's. Loving the NGK Iridiums (#DCPR9EIX). Great foul-resistant plugs. | ||
| Sloppy |
To Sparky: Since it is the center electrode that looses shape over use and not the "ring" (which is what the marketing is about) and the electrode is NOT a fine wire design, they both suffer from the same reduction of electrode mass. As pointed out earlier, the current travels the gap of the shortest resistance (distance). Both will suffer a similar fate... you may be right, but if there was no difference when new I am not going to recommend them to anyone - especially at $36 for a set! That'll pay for a number of rides through the mountains for me...  | ||
| M1combat |
Stock plugs | ||
| Sparky |
Sloppy, you said it yourself,
That's saying nothing. Run your plugs for 100,000 miles and see if your plugs work better than Torque Masters after 100,000 miles. Hey, I've got nearly 94,000 miles on the same set of TMs in my S1 and they still fire strong. How often do you have to change your NGK's while I'm still running the same set of Torque Masters in 100,000 miles? That's not a rhetorical question! | ||
| Vasiliy_ru |
I was replacing NGK plugs every 15000km. on my previous bike  if TM's really work well after 100 000miles does anyone know where I can buy them in the Russia? )) (Message edited by vasiliy_ru on August 11, 2009) | ||
| Patches |
"especially at $36 for a set! That'll pay for a number of rides through the mountains for me..." Autolite 4164, $1.65ea local auto parts store. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Spark plugs are like fishing lures...there are thousands on the market...but only a handfull are reliable day after day performers....the rest are gimmicks. Depending on application, you can't beat NGK, Denso, or Autolite....if you constantly stay on top of your tune...the standard NGK at a buck nineth-five is damn hard to beat...I have never had a "bad" one from the box. We run them in two dragbikes (I-4 imports)...with 75-100 hp nitrous shots and 11,000+ rpm...no failures, and no missfires according to the loggers...but remember, no plug is a cure for a poor tune!!! Exotic metal plugs last a bit longer...but for less than 5 bucks a set (on an XB) you can afford to replace them as needed. | ||
| Buford |
Thanks OXY-NGKs it twill be. | ||
| Sloppy |
Spark: Whoah! If you like 'em, use 'em. I'm just saying that what they claim isn't how they actually work. I've done dyno and mileage checks so it's not opinion, it's data. To answer your question - I change my plugs twice a year; a summer and winter set. But I only replace them every 10,000 miles (at less than $3 a set!). If TM's works for you, great! But I'm still not going to recommend them - especially at that price. I can't find evidence that supports TM's to be an economic nor an efficiency decision. If what you want is a plug that claims it can go 100k miles them TM's might be right for you. But considering we're not working on a Boss 429 or Porsche 911, it's pretty darn simple to change plugs on bikes. Curious how you can say that they work better after 100k miles compared to NGK's - have you done the same with NGK's? How do you know that they "fire strong"? Have you done a flame kernal current check? Dyno? Mileage? Spark jump check? Anything? That's not a rhetorical question either... If you like TM's then use 'em. If someone asks my opinion about plugs I'll share it. That's the great thing about Capitalism - we get to choose where we want to spend our money! (Message edited by sloppy on August 11, 2009) | ||
| Er_rn |
Thanks guys. Wooo! that's alot to think about. I really don't have the know how to change plugs myself (I've changed them in my car) and I don't have the resources to access the plugs. So that said, I'm going to have my local HD dealer do the labor and I'm going to provide the parts. I think the longest lasting plug would be my best bet. So go with the iridium? | ||
| Sloppy |
Yes. Pricey, but they'll last longer. While you are at the dealer get the Factory Service Manual. Stop off at your local hardware store and buy a basic automotive tool set and a torque wrench. Craftsman or Husky is a good beginner brand. Then go to the library and get a basic "automotive systems" book to understand the "why and how" before you "do". With the time and money you'll invest you'll be able to save more money by working on it yourself to pay for all the tools! | ||
| Bromanowski |
I'd go with the iridiums for long life. The center electrode is so small and sparks so hot that there is no chance for any buildup. I spoke with NGK at last years PRI show (performance racing industry). They don't provide any real performance advantage but they are 100k mile plugs. I just got a set online for $14 shipped just so it's one less thing I ever have to worry about | ||
| Buford |
Per Al..the NGK DCPR9E's are da ones. | ||
| Brandon_m |
Er-rn.... It's far cheaper to buy the few tools needed to change the plugs rather than have the dealer do it. they probably told you that the motor needs to be rolled out or something like that. If so... Not true. For the XBs all you need to do is remove the left side air scoop (easy) and remove the seat (even easier). Sometimes the airbox needs to come off? I'm having trouble remembering right now. Very easy too. The front plug can be removed with a simple wrench and the rear only requires a 3/8 drive extension, 3/8 drive u-joint/ and your deepwell socket for the plug. It's cake and will save you lots of cash and time. If I missed something here guys, feel free to correct it. I'm sick and the brain in only firing on the rear cylinder....  (Message edited by Brandon_M on August 13, 2009) (Message edited by Brandon_M on August 13, 2009) |
