| Author | Message | ||
     Nextcorner |
Has anyone changed this in your garage? Manual says @ 10K mi. I have 17.600 on my bike, still haven't changed. I've heard that it won't hurt the bike, but you will feel the difference after you change it. Am I in need of a spring compressor? Any other tools or problems I might run into? I would probably support the bike via straps from my garage rafters. I have to wrap the straps around the frame because I need to remove triple tree ( I can't strap it around handle bars), correct? | ||
| Froggy |
I will dig up the picture guide, it can be done without special tools, like using ratchet straps as compressors. | ||
| Froggy |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/153628.html?1178891937 | ||
| Hughlysses |
You don't have to remove the triple trees, just slide the fork tubes out the bottom. You don't have to have special tools, but they sure do make the job easier. I splurged and bought a fork compressor tool and fork oil level setting tool from American Sport Bike last month. | ||
| Nextcorner |
Good find Froggy, Very helpful! I'll probably tackle it this week. | ||
| 03firebolt |
I just did mine, without any use of any special tools. or ratchet straps. It was way simpler than i thought it would be. After i took the hour or so for the first fork, the second one took me only 10-15 min. It was a very simple process, and i changed seals as well so i imagine just changing fluid would be much easier. | ||
| Brucen |
I changed the fork oil at 10K & 20K on my SS. I am glad I did. A lot of people have said that the oil should be good for a lot longer than 10K miles. What I found was that the oil in the right leg was noticeably dirtier that the left. I assume this was from brake dust. The oil may not be worn out, but the stuff floating in it can't be doing any good. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
I have always admired guys who rebuild their own forks. One thing to keep in mind if you plan on doing this, is that Buell sells a competition spring upgrade for only $77. So while you have the forks apart, you might as well improve your handling too. Here they are: http://www.buell.com/en_US/gear/accessories/produc t.asp?Menu_ID=2&ProductLineID=3&CategoryID=6&Produ ctID=2169 | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
no springs for the STT? :-( I'm at 20k. Guess i need to change my oil too.... | ||
| Postban |
~03firebolt~ ... and i changed seals as well so i imagine just changing fluid would be much easier. ================================================== ====================== What were the names or numbers for the seal parts if you recall? I hear we also need to do steering head bearings and wheel bearings when we get into the 'teens. Gonna get to it once the snow flies | ||
| Jraice |
Do more research before you go and buy springs. There is no such thing as a competition spring... Its just stiffer. The question is, do you need a stiffer spring for your weight and riding style or not? Also you could get springs for about that price from RaceTech (although it would only be forks so I guess that is a decent deal, in that you get the rear spring as well)... Just saying, a spring is a spring (there are some different types though like dual rates and progressive), one is not "better" then another. My guess is the competition setup is just stiffer springs, as most bikes come a little soft from the factory. | ||
| Mtch |
i changed my fork oil at 10k miles on my 07 Scg. i also installed Hyperpro springs as i found the stock springs gave too much dive when braking. the Hyperpo's were a great improvement. the manual is very clear, and you get fork oil with the springs (Message edited by Mtch on August 12, 2009) | ||
| Jcbikes |
About how much oil per leg in the standard lighting? | ||
| Froggy |
Check your service manual, it varies by year and model as they have changed. | ||
| Buford |
My dealer tech suggested I go with the heavier Uly fork oil since I commute a mile or so daily down a rough stretch. Made a big diff...no diving. How hard is it to "tighten" up the rear? |
