| Author | Message | ||
     Brumbear |
Not a terrible thing but I am rolling along today at a spirted pace and the bike just cut off. I am like shyte what happened here no key power except when I turn the ignition key to acc. the guages sweep thats it. I check the key switch all the fuses and I jiggle the battery and I get lights and everything powers up. Hit the starter and nothing again except a funny slow fuel pump niose check the connections good check everything all good I whack the battery it powers up and cuts right off. I pull the battery have the misses pick a new one up meet me on the road put it in starts right up go home check the charging system its fine . The damn battery just crapped right out in motion something must of broken off inside I 'll be damned | ||
| Bishopjb1124 |
It might have just been a loose connection was not letting the battery charge properly. It sounds to me like when you jiggled the connections it got a good enough connection to run the lights but at that point it was not strong enough to crank the starter over. Just what I think might have happened by the sounds of your diagnoses. Might wanna keep the old battery and have it checked. Jimmy | ||
| Froggy |
+1 to loose cables theory. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Point Doc over next door posted this: Here is an old skool test for charging system vs. battery. While the vehicle is running, we would disconnect the positive wire from the battery. If the vehicle continues to run, then the battery is the problem. But if the vehicle stops, then the charging system is the problem. A word of caution: if you perform this, you need to be mindful of not allowing the positive lead touch any part of the vehicle. Also, do not hold the metal part of the positive lead and lean-on or touch the vehicle!! ...lol Go with double-checking that battery. Note: probably not a good game to play but sounds like you did it a safer way. | ||
| Froggy |
That doesn't work on the Buells, the charging system barley keeps the bike running at idle, and removing the battery will stall it. | ||
| Brumbear |
The connections were good as hell the battery just took a crap I still got the battery at home when ya smack it around even with the battery out and just the meter on it if ya smack it around the volts jump up and down something is broken inside it for sure. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
One should not unhook the battery on an electronic engine while it is running The computers can be damaged by the alternator pulses The battery is there to act as a buffer to smooth out the power flow | ||
| Point_doc |
Poppinsexz, The info shared is what I learned back in the '70 for quick trouble shooting, back when there was sponsored Mopar contests, a time before vehicles had computers. With this stated; if the voltage regulator was bad and not regulating the output "smooth out the power flow", then the possibility as you described makes sense. Thanks for sharing and I will update my previous post. | ||
| Roysbuell |
I have an '84 fullsize Blazer and drove over 100 miles with a fried alternator on battery power alone. | ||
| Jakecheez |
what kind of battery do you have? if it is not a gel battery, than the intense shaking of the buell motor will cause the battery to do some crazy stuff- | ||
| Brumbear |
A broken eeone silly Juat kiddin its a batteries+ gonna take it back down there today try to get a refund I am pretty sure it's a gel though as it lays on its back. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Point Doc- Just trying to help out. A Generator/alternator always puts out power in a wave form high/low usually there are 3 phases(not sure on the Buell) the battery absorbes these and buffers them into a straight DC power. Without the battery the power to the computer would be pulsing high/low. The regulator only limits the max power that is put out, It does not smooth out the pulses. | ||
| Point_doc |
Poppinsexz, Help...you did, thanks. (Message edited by Point_Doc on August 11, 2009) | ||
| Nillaice |
i know xb's do have 3 phase alternators. but i don't know how bad the fluctuations would be with the batt leads lifted. i'd imagine that even at idle it would not be bad enuff to really damage anything electrical on the bike, but i am not HD certifed or anything. not even chrome specialist ... lol i'm sure it says not to do so in the manual somewhere, so yeah, don't do it. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Buell uses a fixed field alternator...output is a function of rpm...the Regulator/rectifier converts the a/c alternator output to DC output...the regulator section of the regulator/rectifier unit measures voltage and bleeds excess thru a resistor to ground to prevent overcurrent at high rpm. that is why the regulator/rectifier is heavily heat sinked and mounted in the open air. Bad rectifer section = dead battery because you cannot charge a battery with A/C current. Bad regulator section = overcurrent (blown bulbs, fried electrics, or if shorted, burned out stator. | ||
| Point_doc |
...to continue this discussion; I have no problem with the discussion on the reg/rec as Fast stated, but what about this "smoothing out the pulse" as Poppinsexz wrote about? Does not the reg/rec condition the incoming signal to prevent a "pulse" to the system? I just want to make sure I am keeping up with this discussion!! Thanks, (Message edited by Point_Doc on August 11, 2009) | ||
| Poppinsexz |
This may help-http://auto.howstuffworks.com/alternator.htm I would be all day typing and still probably screw it up. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
To add a little more-  Each winding in an alternator produces an AC current. As shown in the pic anything above the line is representing pos to neg current flow, anything below is neg to pos flow. With the peaks representing peak voltage. The rectifier removes the bottom half(anything below the line) and the rest goes to the battery. This pic shows 2 complete phases where most alternators have 3. Most automotive alternators reduce the magnetic field to reduce the amount of current made. Most bike regulators just run any extra current through a big resister to ground. But you still have the waves to deal with. That is what the battery will absorbe and smooth out. (Message edited by poppinsexz on August 11, 2009) | ||
| Point_doc |
Poppinsexz, Thanks for your efforts!! | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Your welcome  | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
i am under the impression that vehicles make dc current and it is sent out as a pulse so it is LIKE ac current. but not a real ac or am i remembering some other telephone/welder/charging circuit from some other universe? | ||
| California69gs |
i had the same thing happen doing 70 around a corner on the interstate during 5pm rush hour traffic. Happened 2 more times before getting home. Replaced the battery and i've been good for a year. | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
or was it pulsed ac to be like dc? i gotta go read and get this sorted out lmao | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Alternators produce AC but it is converted to DC by the rectifier So what come out to the system is pulsed DC. | ||
| Brumbear |
_ _ _ _ _ _ put in some resistance and squash the wave tops together and voila dc current  with flyback return | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
i am thinking the omni phase balancer will help.i saw one on craiglist | ||
| Steelerbike |
Hey, there seems to be some really knowledgeable guys on this thread. I just bought a new 9SX and I ride year round. I have a heated jacket, pants, gloves and socks. How can I tell if the charging system will handle these items? Does anyone else wear heated gear in the winter? | ||
| Froggy |
Steeler, you will be fine. I run a TV and electric cooler off of mine.  | ||
| Froggy |
Oh, if I can find a way to cut a nice hole in the seat, I wouldn't have to ever stop except for gas ups |
