2.It was an ink pen. I gutted it, cut a slot in the body and tip. Then cut the extra tip off leaving a 1/16" sticking out of the body. Next I cut the body to the right length.
3.I like the louder lumpity lump at idle, but hate the flat spot during acceleration. Next I removed it so I can run it the way I like it most.
4. Stock! Easy mod, I rate it a quarter cup of iced tea.
You can do the same thing with a couple of zip ties also... the upper right screw on the actuator is a good place to tie them.
It runs like crap with the valve open though, doesn't it? There's a huge flat spot from about 2700-4000. About all that does is make it loud(er). I put mine back to stock after one day.
Saratoga, I'm glad it only cost me a little time to figure out it was not what I wanted.
Yep Just Like c..p. To be honest, the only part that sounded good to me was the idle. I nailed it at near 3k and was wondering when it was going to move. I did not leave it on there an hour.
Question for y'all. Do you ever hear your interactive valve close a few minutes after you have shut the bike off? I plan to adjust the valve tomorrow night since I figured this is abnormal, but thought I would ask.
I had to take off the exhaust for some work and started up the bike, the bike sounds effin MEAN with an open headder!!! probably runs like poop though :\
Ourdee- then you can cut the white wire on the servo connector itself, it's the one that controls it. Normally closed relay to have the ECM control it and when you power the relay, the white wire to the servo gets grounded- the servo opens and stays open, until you release.
You can have your cake and eat it too... You don't need to even consider wiring up the exhaust actuator valve (which degrades mid rpm power and makes starting a bit harder) because there is a better option. The ECM actually has an alternate program built in which allows the actuator to operate differently... and there are adjustments available to tailor how it works. I have a friend with ECM Spy and he helped me follow this advice from BadWeb member Sekaliagai: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/375761.html
I programmed my actuator to be closed below 750 rpm (to preserve easy starting) open from idle to 3200 rpm (which makes the bike sound better - growls instead of the loose marbles sound) and it runs great! Then it closes above 3200 rpm to preserve the mid range rush! It still opens when throttle is wide open... all in all an inexpensive and worthwhile improvement. My bike has a soul satisfying tone but is not going to bother anyone. As with any exhaust system change - remapping the fuel tables really makes this work... improved low rpm running, more power at high rpms and an average of 47 around town and 51 mpg on the open road.
Soooo, if you use the valve at will (electric), does it throw a code? I noticed you have an 08. Will the ECM and the switch get along on an 05? Do you have to manually hit the switch all the time? I like growl's idea, but you need ECMspy don't ya?
Flip switch on\ engine light comes on at 5 seconds
Flip switch off/ engine light goes off at 5 seconds : If throttle is above idle
I don't know if it stores a code, haven't checked yet
Miko_k told me how to wire the switch with a normally closed relay. I cheated and used a 2 position switch to get the same results.
On Miko_k's you hold the button in to open the valve. When you let go of the button the ecm regains control of the valve.
On mine you flip switch left and the valve opens and stays open. When you flip switch right control of the valve reverts to the ecm.
On both setups the ecm is disconnected from the valve opening white wire and the white wire from the servo is grounded without grounding the ecm. (this opens the valve)
NOTE: I do not run the bike around for more than a few seconds bypassing the ecm, and do not know if it would hurt anything to run it bypassed for more than a few seconds. So, that said, hack at your own risk.