| Author | Message | ||
     Swordsman |
Okay, so I'm wondering what would cause my front brake lever to have so much travel. It doesn't really start to have any feel until it's already halfway depressed. I checked, and it's on adjustment notch #1, so it's not that. Fluid is full. Pads look like they still have plenty of life in them. My first thought is air in the line, but I haven't done anything to them, so how would it have gotten in? ~SM | ||
| Gjwinaus |
Could wobble in the rotor be pushing the pads back | ||
| Barker |
bleed em. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
bleed them, maybe there was a bubble in the caliper that finally got out into the line, bleed them anyways. maybe your plunger is gone, but thats slim because I haven't heard of this problem for buells ever | ||
| Jraice |
Its summer, you could've overheated your brake fluid from harder riding... If there were traces of water in the fluid (how often have you been changing? Fluid should be changed atleast every year) this heating would gas it to boil, thus causing air bubbles. Also for bleeding... Speed bleeders! Replaces the nipple, its a one way valve, very inexpensive and I have found its the best way to bleed brakes both in its simplicity, economy and the overall result. | ||
| Swordsman |
Nope, zero hard riding, all sissy commutes. As far as changing the brake fluid, that's a new one on me. I've never changed brake fluid on anything in my life !  ~SM | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
its easy, i didnt need a kit to do it, on another forum they insisted getting a kit. all you need is some clear tubing that will fit the nipple, read up on it on the internet and you'll know | ||
| Jraice |
What year is the bike? Does the dealer do the fluid in the service? Sounds like you should start there... I still recommend the speed bleeder, makes life easier, but you can do it the old fashion way (what Ochoa0042 is hinting at) which involves loosening the bleeding nipple on the caliper (yay buells! we only have one), squeezing the brake lever (brake fluid will then flow out the caliper nipple) and tightening it just as you finish the squeeze (if you dont seal it up air gets sucked back in the nipple). For a bleed you would do this until the brakes felt good then top off the master cylinder. For a fluid swap you just keep doing it until fresh fluid comes through the nipple (if its been a while it will be very noticable, fresh fluid is lighter colored), then since you shouldnt reuse the brake fluid bottle after opening it and there is usually a lot left Ill do another master cylinder or two of fresh stuff just to fully flush out the line. I have also used an inline one way valve, allows you to just pump the lever and it all comes out. That worked great but because it was inline there were still 2-3 places air could get in. Which brings me again to the speed bleeder. Its a one way valve NIPPLE so there is no place for the air to really go except the threads which have a sealant coating on them. Allows you to loosen the nipple, squeeze the lever and add fluid to the MC as you go (if it runs emtpy you'll fill the line with air, bad!) then tighten it up and your set! | ||
| Barker |
all I use to bleed is a phillips head, 8mm wrench and new flulid. | ||
| Icunh |
+1 on the speed bleeder, google motion pro speed bleeder, $20 | ||
| Point_doc |
I have LSL Speed Bleeders... M8x1.25 Part# SB8125 http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/bleederacc.cfm | ||
| Dano_12s |
Cliff,Try compressing the pads/pistons fully back into the calipers then using half the lever travel pump the pads slowly back in contact w/rotor. | ||
| Miko_k |
Open the reservoir, empty it, clean it, fill it with fresh fluid, open the bleed valve, drain until almost empty, fill it again, stick a piece of clear tubing on the bleed valve, run it right back and submerge it into the reservoir, work the brake multiple times until no more air bubbles come out, close reservoir, test ride, grab a cold one, enjoy  | ||
| Bcool83 |
FWIW, my right front wheel bearing exploded, causing the wheel/bearing remains to grind down the right fork tube near the axle, so the wheel has a wicked wobble now. I'm getting the same brake feel (or lack thereof) as you describe, because the rotor isn't in a single spot. Check that your wheel bearings are in one piece, but first that your rotor isn't significantly warped or somehow loose. | ||
| Swordsman |
Thanks for the heads up Bcool, but I just removed the front wheel a few days ago and had a new tire installed. Bearings are a-ok.  ~SM |
