| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
As I gain more confidence in my cornering I feel I am getting very close to dragging the S pegs on my XB12Ss. I am thinking its a good time to switch to R pegs. How much of a difference in comfort is it? Does it change the way the bike handles/feels or the riding position of the upper body very much? Is it still possible to drag them without going insane (talking street riding not track riding)? I have heard an 1125R can basically lean to the point of your leg being sandwiched between the tank and the road before it drags. I also was planning to get some after market pegs, any recommendations? Something stronger, better grip, flashier (I think red would look great) and leaner (no peg feeler, thus even more cornering clearance). My greatest fear right now is dragging and I think some more peace of mind would go a long way in helping me advance my cornering ability. | ||
| Ratfink |
If your looking for aftermarket pegs, nothing beats the LSL pegs. You can get them from www.americansportbike.com I run them on my R and I don't think I could get them to drag unless I push my bike over on it's side! But as far as diffrent riding postures between the R's and S's. I'd have to say it's one inch less so it's gotta be a little tighter. | ||
| Mrs_glitch |
I'm with Ratfink. I have the same set up. One thing though... The S has a lower seat than the R, so the R pegs on an S is a little more tight. Just so you know, I have an R tail section, and it helps, but if I didn't, it wouldn't be a deal killer, I'd still have the R pegs. It definitely puts you in a position to carve corners. | ||
| Glitch |
Sounds like Mrs_glitch knows her stuff  | ||
| Swordsman |
Jraice, PM sent.  ~SM | ||
| Spatten1 |
I tried R pegs on my S and it was an instant charlie horse. I know someone else that pulled it off and he was comfortable. If your 6 foot, don't even think about it. If you aren't dragging your pegs, you might not even be close. My S runs out of tire about when it runs out of peg clearance. Pull your peg feelers off and just ride it until you are actually dragging pegs, then worry about it. | ||
| Andymnelson |
"Pull your peg feelers off and just ride it until you are actually dragging pegs, then worry about it." I agree. You're talking about making an ergonomics change to fix a problem that does not yet exist. And when it does exist, you have a simple solution- take those crappy feelers off. And then when you actually scrape pegs regularly...you finally know how to ride! | ||
| Glitch |
And then when you actually scrape pegs regularly...you finally know how to ride! I disagree, the object of the game is to keep the hard parts off the pavement. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Haha yeah. I guess I didn't mean that the way it came across. My point: no sense, IMO, in trying to fix a problem that does not exist, especially when that "fix" causes ergonomics issues like a more cramped seating position. | ||
| Xl_cheese |
I put on R pegs on my S when I go to the track. If I don't my toes will hit too soon. After doing a handfull of track days I would never attempt to drag a knee on the street. It's looking for trouble and I've become much more reserved over time. | ||
| Nadz |
The only ways my R scrapes footpegs: 1. Warm track tires on a warm track. 2. Crash the bike. So I ordered Uly drop pegs yesterday. | ||
| Jraice |
I am sure I could take a close look at my bike and figure this out but is it the peg itself that is lower? I thought it was the part it was mounted to... So all I would need are LSL pegs and the mounts and that would be higher then the S? And I would rather keep the hard parts from dragging and causing a possible crash, dont need them to tell me I am approaching max lean. I guess Ill get some pegs and I can always switch to S again for longer rides outside of the mountains. Just wondering exactly what parts Ill need. Also how do you guys like those billet ones from American Sport Bike? | ||
| Old_man |
Better to hang your ass off than scrape the hard parts. This changes the CG without giving up good tire contact. | ||
| Andymnelson |
The S pegs have a drop to the peg themselves, the bike 1/2 of it is the same as an R. The R pegs basically go straight out. | ||
| Andymnelson |
S  R  | ||
| Jraice |
Awesome! So now, to go with the billet ones... 9072 - Billet cleated Foot Pegs, Rider Position (on American Sport Bike) or get the LSL. LSL looks better and I believe would be stronger as I have heard of the pegs failing and I believe its the mounting point, which the billet piece wouldnt replace, correct? I found some threads, one person (over six feet) hated it. The other said it was only slightly less comfortable then the S pegs(just under sex feet). I think its worth a try! | ||
| Ratfink |
jraice.... Theres 3 types of billet pegs on American Sport Bike 1. Cleated http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9072.html 2. Scalloped http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16066.html 3. Rounded Race legal http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16065.html I use #2 THe scalloped ones. The cleated ones are dropped pegs like on an S. The other 2 would come straight out like on an R. If you buy either of the other two, you will need a pair of these... http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9111.html And word to the wiser, if you have ANY questions before you order, call first. Joanne and Al are awesome at what they do. Ive bout over $1000 worth of stuff from them and they have never messed any of my orders up. They are hands down one of the best sponsers on this board IMO. | ||
| Ratfink |
My mistake, the cleated ones arent dropped. And in my opinion, since I wear race boots all the time, The cleated ones dont look as easy to roll my foot to change gears. | ||
| Glitch |
 I have the silver ones. | ||
| Jraice |
That was also my worry with the cleated ones, they might be TO grippy and they are not the best looking. Reason I was interested was I found an opportunity to get some for $45 plus shipping (used). I wont be racing my bike so should I go with the scalloped over the round LSL's? And any more input from riders with S (or better yet, the Ss) and switching to non-dropped pegs? I would imagine its the same change in comfort as switching to the touring seat, which is a bit more then an inch shorter. I just went out to the bike and sat on it, even put some 1" pieces of wood on the pegs. Didnt seem like that bad of a position, puts my legs closer to the airbox cover (currently rest on the frame) as well. And I am not sure how close I am to dragging them, front tire still has some decent chicken strips but the rear (still running stock Diablo T's) are now down to around 3/16" on each side. And like one person said one of my worries is mid corner bumps, while I may not be dragging on a smooth corner a sudden bump could make it drag which would probably be even more dangerous then if it was a lean induced drag. Atleast if it was from the lean angle I could correct it with body positioning and it would happen slowly rather then a sudden pump and the peg hitting hard. | ||
| Jraice |
I believe I saw somewhere something about installing the passenger pegs to get more clearance? Wouldnt be a permanent change for me but whats the difference in height, might be a good way to see if the comfort will be a problem or not. | ||
| Old_man |
Replacement pegs from Buell are very inexpensive. Try a set of the R pegs. | ||
| Jraice |
I'd rather not pay $30's for the pegs when thats already half of the cost of the LSL pegs. Another option Al at American Sport Bike just brought to my attention is the LSL with the one inch drop kit. He says he has no problems with clearance and they would be close to the stock riding position. Also the other reason I want to consider the swap is because of everything on here about the stock pegs breaking, pretty scary stuff. | ||
| Old_man |
That's the way to go. | ||
| Jraice |
Which way? R pegs or the one inch drop kit with the LSL? | ||
| Old_man |
You should get the pegs that YOU want. | ||
| Juniorkirk |
the pegs cost the same, but you have to pay that extra $100 for the bases so that you can attach the pegs to the bike. If i still had my old R pegs i would send them to you for free. But i left them back in iowa before i came out here to cali. Right now i have the inch lowered pegs on my bike and its HARD as hell to drag my pegs. | ||
| Chippy |
Psssst, you already have r pegs on your bike! They're right behind the riders pegs. Just switch em and try them for free. If you like them go buy a second set, if not switch them back. | ||
| Glitch |
On the top of the Buell Rider Assistance Network (BRAN) page (you have to be logged in to see it) there's a link to the Parts and Gear Assistance (Pay It Forward) Board. There BadWeBbers post parts needed and parts to give other BadWeBbers. One of the many things that make BadWeB great. Anyhow, y'all might be able to find a set of R pegs for next to nothing, or nothing. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Footpegs aren't hard parts. They pivot up and back so you can drag them without crashing immediately. Try dragging a pipe or center stand and one of the tires will leave the ground immediately, I know from experience, it sucked. You can certainly drag a peg without crashing, unless you panic. I run LSLs too, because at one time I was working on standup wheelies and scared the stock pegs might break, after dragging them a couple of times and hearing about other people's issues. They are good quality. |
