| Author | Message | ||
     Niceguyeddy |
Thinking seriously of going back to the stocker, now running a Jardine. When I remove the tension pulley, can I just loosen the pinch bolt or do I need to start from the remove drive belt section (in the manual of course)? Also, does it make any sense to wire the valve open on the stocker? | ||
| Nobuell |
I experimented with a wired open exhaust valve. It sounds much better than stock when idling. I found that there is a significant decrease in low and mid RPM torque. The sound at idle was fun for awhile but the valve works very well to produce the low end torque. I am riding with the stock setup now. | ||
| Ourdee |
I thought I read where someone put their wrench through the holes in the pulley to loosen the clamp without having to remove it. | ||
| Niceguyeddy |
Ourdee, I've got to get the old Jardine brackets off. Darn thing's connected at the pulley. Nobuell, significant loss? No good. Got a flat spot at about 3k. Would prefer performance over noise (though I do love it so). | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
i am heading there too.first going to try muffler and 90 degree mandrel bent tube to fab my own deal and see how the noise is. and a stock muffler will be on it's way soon as well. | ||
| Dbird29 |
How about using a Race ECM with the stock pipe? I have my stock pipe BBQpainted and do not want to deal with changing back to the stock ECM. Any issues there? | ||
| Glen |
if yer gonna get the pully off, you need to loosen the rear axle to take the tension off the belt. 20 turns out? you might want to check that , it was late when i did it. | ||
| Niceguyeddy |
Manual says 15. Thanks for the heads up. | ||
| Growl |
You don't need to even consider wiring up the exhaust actuator valve (which degrades mid rpm power and makes starting a bit harder) because there is a better option. The ECM actually has an alternate program built in which allows the actuator to operate differently... and there are adjustments available to tailor how it works. I have a friend with ECM Spy and he helped me follow this advice from BadWeb member Sekaliagai: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/375761.html We programmed my actuator to be closed below 750 rpm (to preserve easy starting) open from idle to 3200 rpm (which makes the bike sound better - growls instead of the loose marbles sound) and it runs great! Then it closes above 3200 rpm to preserve the mid range rush! It still opens when throttle is wide open... all in all an inexpensive and worthwhile improvement. My bike has a soul satisfying tone but is not going to bother anyone. As with any exhaust system change - remapping the fuel tables really makes this work... improved low rpm running, more power at high rpms and an average of 48-50 mpg. By the way, my experience is with a 2006 Uly. | ||
| Petebueller |
I get through the holes in the pulley with tube sockets to get loosen the straps. Not sure about the Jardine mounts but with the Drummer and stock it's easy and no need to pull the pulley off or loosen the rear wheel. | ||
| Sam_07 |
Go to sears and pick up a 3/8 swivel. You do not have to go through the pulley or even touch it. | ||
| Glen |
he's gotta get the jardine chin fairing brackets off the bike, the right side bracket shares the pully bolts. | ||
| Nobuell |
Growl, Changing the actuator sounds great. Can it be done on a June build 08? I like the idea of the little extra growl at idle without being obnoxious to my neighbors when I leave for work. | ||
| Growl |
Nobuell, I think so, but I'm not sure... the growl when cruising at 3000 is nice too. |
