| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
Just got some RP 20W50 and then came home to realize that they make a "Max Cycle" type oil. Anybody know the differences? Any reason not to use the regular oil? | ||
| 03worc9r |
the difference is about $3.00-$4.00 LOL | ||
| Jraice |
The difference is my service is Sunday and I cant get the Max Cycle locally and already have 4 quarts of the regular in my garage now which I could return, but for what?  BTW, this wont be for use in the primary. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Dude for real...you have agonized over the whole oil thing WAY too much! Just put a quality oil in, change it regularly and RIDE! They both will work just fine. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
The bottom line: does the oil you have meet the specific requirements listed in your owners manual? If so, use it. Because engine oil is separate from primary oil on your bike, you do not have to use oil that is "motorcycle transmission safe" in the engine... but it does have to be 20W-50, 15W-40, or 10W-40 diesel certified CF-4, CG-4, CH-4 or CI-4. If you use mineral oil, do not exceed the 3,000 mile change interval. If you use synthetic, you can extend the oil changes from 7,500 to 10,000 miles. The choice is yours. | ||
| Teh_nub |
It will work for the engine, but not the primary/tranny/clutch due to having differen't friction modifiers that are not compatible with a wet clutch etc... I use Amsoil 20w50 MCV for both engine and primary.. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx | ||
| Oxygen151 |
I have been using the regular RP in my engine for over a year now, as well as the max cycle for the primary. It has been working great so far. At the end of the day, you bought RP, its pretty good stuff. | ||
| Jraice |
Awesome sounds like I am fine to use it this time and will decide next time what I want to do. I am sticking with formula+ for now in the primary, stock shifts fine so why not stick with the upgraded harley for now. Also doing stock filter. | ||
| 03worc9r |
Try a different oil each change you do till you think you have found one you like. | ||
| Sloppy |
"It will work for the engine, but not the primary/tranny/clutch due to having differen't friction modifiers that are not compatible with a wet clutch etc..." Huh? Where did that one come from??? Oil Rumor Club Myth #9? | ||
| Nobuell |
The Royal Purple Max looks good based on the manufacturers website but at $16.00 per quart (Dennis Kirk), WOW. Has any one found a stocking dealer in the Chicago area with with more reasonable prices? There was a recent post regarding RH air scopes http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/457777.html?1241545105. Thunderbox says that his oil temp did not exceed 195 F in the swingarm after extended 90 MPH runs. Maybe this engine is not all that hard on the oil to begin with. I tend to believe a good properly graded oil will work just fine. Think I'll stick with Mobil V-Twin for $8.00/ quart from Wally World. | ||
| Jraice |
Thanks guys, I feel confident in just going with this stuff (in the engine) for this oil change. On the topic of oil, my bike's burning it like crazy! This is the second time I have found the dipstick to not even have oil on it apon checking the oil. Going to put the last of my bottle of harley oil in before tomorrow's ride, service is scheduled for Sunday (Tuesday with a Sunday drop off) so that will give me a few days to keep an eye on it and see how quickly it "disappears". When I got it from the dealer, first check after 50 miles of riding and it was at about 1/4 of the okay zone. This would be one full quart in around 1300 miles that I would have had to add to it. A little unnerving but I road it very hard for the second half of the first 1000 miles. Hopefully with time and the synthetic it will slow up. | ||
| Teh_nub |
"Huh? Where did that one come from??? Oil Rumor Club Myth #9?" Sloppy, The issue with using an automotive type oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch is that many automotive oils have friction modifiers. Friction modifiers in automotive oils tend to provide increased frictional reduction and offset a portion of the fuel economy lost when the U.S. Government mandated a reformulated gasoline for emissions requirements. However these friction modifiers can be detrimental to proper wet clutch operation and can cause slippage and other potential performance issues such as engine start failures, a rough running feel, and increased fuel consumption due to higher engine stall speeds. From the royal purple website, the max cycle was the only oil that mentioned anything about being formulated for engine and transmission use as well as compatible with wet clutch systems. | ||
| Teh_nub |
Nobuell, Any store that sells regular royal purple can order the max cycle for you (O'Reilly's, Advanced Auto parts, etc) Or by searching here http://royalpurple.findlocation.com/ | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
WOW $16/qt! When I ordered my case of the MaxCycle 20/50 it came to $11/qt Guess that's another reason to look for a new oil when this case it empty. I already have grown tired of using RP because since it starts out dark purple anyway, it's hard to tell how dirty the oil is getting when changing it. I tried RP in the primary once - dumped it and went back to formula+ after a couple hundred miles. I don't know if it's ok to use in the primary or not, but the shifting felt really strange compared to when I run formula+ | ||
| Nobuell |
Jraice I have 6800 miles on my XT. It has been 1300 miles since my last oil change and I had to add 100ml to get the oil to the XX mark on the dipstick. How many miles are on your machine? | ||
| Chase12s |
just noticed that on the Royal Purp website they recommend using 10w-30 for the primary and 20w-50 in the engine. Anyone been using 10w-30 in the primary? | ||
| Sloppy |
"The issue with using an automotive type oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch is that many automotive oils have friction modifiers. Friction modifiers in automotive oils tend to provide increased frictional reduction and offset a portion of the fuel economy lost when the U.S. Government mandated a reformulated gasoline for emissions requirements. However these friction modifiers can be detrimental to proper wet clutch operation and can cause slippage and other potential performance issues such as engine start failures, a rough running feel, and increased fuel consumption due to higher engine stall speeds. From the royal purple website, the max cycle was the only oil that mentioned anything about being formulated for engine and transmission use as well as compatible with wet clutch systems." Wow -- what a sales pitch. I love it - scare everybody about a problem that doesn't exist. And I though scare tactics would only be used by the government, aka, stimulus bill! I've never seen a document with so many "can", "may" and "might". I challenge ANYONE to find an oil that meets the API and viscosity requirements for the Buell that WON'T work in a wet clutch... anyone up for the challenge? | ||
| Jraice |
Only around 1300 miles on the bike. And 100ml wouldnt even put a dent in how low it has been getting, off the dipstick. But I have heard some say its normal to have to add a quart for every 1500 miles, considering my bike is on its first 1500 mile segment, non-synthetic oil and ridden hard I am not worried. Should subside soon especially with the Royal Purple. If it doesnt, then Ill start getting worried. I will mention it to the tech's though, maybe its all getting spewed into the airbox! Shouldnt though as I have never even gotten the dipstick okay zone half way covered. | ||
| Mesozoic |
I bought my XB last April and have put 6500 miles on it since. My first synthetic switch started with Mobil 1 V-Twin, but recently I started using Amsoil 20W50 motorcycle oil and it has made a tremendous difference in operating temperature, starting ease, and quiet operation. I don't hear any valvetrain noise at all anymore with the Amsoil. SOLD. I have used Royal Purple in my racing engines in cars, but have never found the proper grade oil for my bike in stock anywhere. | ||
| Fahren |
Chase12s is right - RP web site specifies 10w30 max cycle (not automotive) for primary, and 20w50 max cycle for engine. At least they list Buells on their site! | ||
| Buford |
Might need to come back and edit this but..RP Max Cycle 20-50 gave me Buell some shifting issues, so drained next day and filled (~29oz) gear box with M1 VTwin 20-50. Shifting issues resolved. Now, the interesting thing about the RP in the motor is that my latest mpg figures (went on a 200M ride today)went from a consistent 50 to almost 58. Granted, this was more freeway stuff so will be interesting to see what the figures are with the regular daily commute. |
