| Author | Message | ||
     Ochoa0042 |
lately my front brake has been giving me vibrations when I am slightly apply the brake approaching a turn. I then give it a tug to have the calipers brake harder then release to the previous pressure and the vibration stops (ie, it doesnt happen when I brake hard) so somehow it settles itsself out with that method. And it doesnt happen every time either. Im wondering whats it can be, and if this is a problem that can be damaging something else.... my gut says that I need some new rotor mounting hardware whats up with this? | ||
| Glitch |
How's the front tire pressure? Steering head tight? Caliper extra clean? Stock pads? How worn? | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
How's the front tire pressure? fine Steering head tight? I dunno Caliper extra clean? yep Stock pads? yep How worn? still good, there is still much room till the wear-notches dissapear anyone??? | ||
| Cyclenut80 |
It could be that your rotor isn't floating anymore. Sometimes where the rotor mounts collects a bit of brake dust and road debris and then it won't move like its supposed to. I'd check that out first. All you have to do is kind of squeeze the rotor with your thumbs and your hands on the tire and see if it has unrestricted movement. If you find that there is an issue i do believe American Sport Bike sells the hardware to fix it for somewhere in the neighborhood of $60. | ||
| Glitch |
Stock pads suck | ||
| Skully |
Get Lyndall Gold pads from American Sportbike, one of BadWeB's sponsors. Keith | ||
| Juniorkirk |
+1 Skully Lyndall Gold+ rock | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
ok custodians, thats enough, try not to post advetisemnt in my thread glitch, I have been riding these pads for some time now, im not saying they're good or bad, but I have not had problems with them and i dont think they are the culprit cyclenut, how much 'floatng' movement should I be looking for? glitch, i'll check out the steering head | ||
| Jraice |
Stock pads are said to leave a residue that can cause similar pulsing... Perhaps thats what it is and the hard braking is scrubbing it off. | ||
| Dooley |
When I went from stock to lyndall pads, it cured that vibration, but now (after 2 yrs of sitting) I'm getting that vibe back....I let you know if I find where its coming from. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
the steering head is fine; theres no resistance or free play, and it turns very smooth. testing the rotor mounting area for floating movement; some didnt move was well as others. So I soaked the bolts down with starter fluid and a bunch of crap melted away, but the movement was still about the same I guess y'all are right, you didnt really say this but, start at the small things and work your way up, im going to get some new shoes to see if that cures the issue avaliable pads to choose from? | ||
| Skully |
try not to post advetisemnt in my thread May I ask why? | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
^^ to skully: ^^ because the thread will get off topic and get stuff like: +1 Skully Lyndall Gold+ rock "yea i have insert brand and they are the best" "have the scalloped brake rotor from american sportbike, WOOHOO!!!" need i explain that this is a troubleshooting thread and i need some suggestions and not advertisement thx | ||
| Scrapin |
You may also want to clean the rotor. Residue from the pad creates "spots" on the rotor surface. Give it a light scrub with a piece of Scotch Brite soaked with alittle brake cleaner. You may have done the same but spray out the rotor mounting bolt holes with brake cleaner too, try to keep it off the tires. Gunk builds up in the spring pockets and prevents the rotor from floating. If all else fails, remove rotor try cleaning holes and springs again...re-install and torque properly. Still nothing...get new rotor mount kit. (Message edited by Scrapin on April 11, 2009) | ||
| Petebueller |
I fitted a wave rotor because by bike was like riding a jackhammer when it was only a couple of months old. I put the stock pads back on at it was cured. I've been running Lyndall Gold+ for a while now, and like the feel of the braking, but I think that the problem I was having is with the design of the stock rotor. Rotors that bolt to the hubs can expand and grow when hot. The stock ZTL can't grow because the inner diameter is less that where it is bolted. I think they will grow wider when hot rather than increase the surface. The wave rotors have extra surface that can expand with on wave edges ,and slots that help the expansion.  | ||
| Kowpow225 |
I'd bet its the steering head. | ||
| Etennuly |
I won't tell you I went to Lyndall Gold pads so that I am not advertising for them. My '06 Ulysses had the brake shake so bad it was difficult to stop. Three times I took the stock pads out and cleaned them with brake cleaner and a scuff pad, and cleaned the rotor with the same. They would work perfectly for about two hundred miles then start pulsing. Do not get brake cleaner on the rims. It will eat into the powder coat. I won't tell you that Lyndall Gold pads have cured the pulsing problem for the last eighteen thousand miles. I have read that EBC pads work also(but I have not tried them). The stock ones do cause the problem and this issue can be researched in the Knowledge Vault. | ||
| Skully |
James, You asked for help. Not only did we tell you what worked for us but where to find the product. The Lynadall Gold pads cured the exact problem that you describe for me 30,000 miles ago and it has not returned. As a BadWeB sponsor, I appreciate it when folks point to our products and I will continue to do the same. Keith DarkHorseMoto, LLC Protecting and Propelling Buell Motorcycles AND a Proud Sponsor of BadWeB http://www.darkhorsemoto.com (Message edited by skully on April 12, 2009) | ||
| Crashcourse411 |
Another thing to do before trying to correct this problem with just brake pads and no rotor change is to clean the rotor before bedding in new pads. When swapping pads remove rotor as well to clean all the little parts and DA the rotor with 200 grit. If you don't have a DA be sure to use a sanding pad so not to cause high and low spots. Not only will the rotor look like new but any residue crap from the old pads or road dirt will be removed. Then just follow the 1000 different ways to break in pads listed here. I'm surprised nobody has started this discussion already, and if you are causing high and low spots please put down the grinder it should not take that much to remove the discoloration. Personally I only cleaned to rotor and rebedded the pads to correct the pulsing. As well as clean the little bits to make sure the rotor was "floating." | ||
| Smoke |
they make a nice looking brake disc ball hone similar to a cylinder ball hone that works real well for about 25 bucks. just put it in an electric drill and lightly go over both sides of the disc keeping the hone well lubricated. clean disc with brakleen when finished and reinstall. i also use anti-seize on all the springs, fasteners and spacer blocks. tim | ||
| Thumper74 |
I'd be worried about the anti-seize gumming up due to the heat involved... Napa sells a 1400 degree ceramic brake caliper lube that's awesome stuff for a reasonable price. I use it on all brake components. Bike or car. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
turns out that lubing & cleaning the rotor mounts fixed it, no thanks to skully and his DarkHorseMoto advertisement  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Ochoa, Please refrain from attacking others on the board (particularly those attempting to be helpful) or you will find yourself on a BW vacation for a little while. BTW, the cause of your gunky linkage IS the stock pads. They DO in fact suck. If you want to solve the problem permanently, I suggest seeking Lyndall's Gold from one of our fine sponsors like American Sport Bike. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
Yeah thanks, for me next set i'll make sure to get some better shoes |
