| Author | Message | ||
     Hughlysses |
Definitely sounds like they sold you the wrong front sprocket. Maybe it's an aftermarket part like Pete says, or maybe a Sportster part? Hopefully you can get it straightened out today. | ||
| Petebueller |
You said that the first chain was second hand. Was the pulley second hand? BTW I added 2 links to fit the 42 tooth. It wouldn't have gone on with the stock chain. I really think you have a wrong sprocket. | ||
| Kmfw160 |
this is good sh!t. I think I will do it this summer. I'm rootin for you guys...in case no one else says it, thanks for the initial info for the rest of us.  | ||
| Arcticktm |
Too late, as I see Barker posted he is on his way to TWO already, but I checked my part numbers as soon as I got home. I did the XB9 primary gear swap on my '06 Uly last year, with OEM parts ordered from American Sport Bike. XB9 sprocket is, in fact, 35 teeth, and 40241-02A XB9 chain is 40005-57B My parts went together just fine (though the stator part was a bitch), and I really like the results. You have to pull the clutch basket and put the whole thing off/on as an assembly, but it is clear Barker was doing that already. Just seems like he must have some incorrect or out of whack parts, somehow. That's GOTTA be frustrating... | ||
| Point_doc |
I just called my local HD shop and the number for the XB9 sprocket is 40241-02 and it has 34 teeth and the chain is 40005-57B. I had them look up the 40241-02A and there info says 34 teeth. | ||
| No_rice |
the 03 xb9r sprocket says 35 teeth for the original part. every year after that says 34 teeth. the chain is the same number all the way through from what i see. but the clutch hub changes to an A part number in 06 so im not sure what was changed. | ||
| Rhun |
Other than affecting the final drive ratio since the belt doesn't allow easy gear changes, is there any other reason to do this? Some of the chain drive guys put the 9 primary in their buell 12. I can't figure out why. Anyone know? | ||
| Dmhines |
The reasons are MOre Torque down low helping acceleration and wheelies ... also keeping the RPM up slightly higher helps with driving in traffic .... It lowers top speed by 10 MPH or so ... The Uly guys like it since it works better for off roading ... | ||
| Cyclenut80 |
This might be an odd question but will the speedo still read correctly after this mod? | ||
| Jraice |
Yeah I am confused on the same aspect as Rhun... I know what the purpose of chain drive as, as well as why you would do the 12 to 9 swap but why both? As he Rhun said, you can accomplish the same results and even more adjustability as the 12 to 9 primary swap by going to a chain, doing both seems like excessive cost... Unless of course they went to the 9 primary first then decided they wanted even lower gearing or a chain for another reason. If you want to do chain drive I cant see any reason to also do the primary swap. | ||
| Petebueller |
The difference between a 40241-02A 40241-02 is that the A version has been lightened by creating a bigger recess around the nut. It looks like it comes from an evolution on the '08 plus retrofitted to the earlier versions. My parts book describes the 40241-02 as "SPROCKET triple row, 34T". One tooth more is enough to stop it fitting. I'd bet that that is the reason. Don't know how it fits on the '03. It has a different gearbox, and perhaps the centres were closer. I've read that the '03 was the last year that would take a Baker 6 speed. Edit: The cogg in your picture is definitely not an 40241-02A. It has a narrow recess around the bolt. (Message edited by Petebueller on March 27, 2009) | ||
| Lanretsr |
This is what the new one looks like  | ||
| Dmhines |
Speedo stays correct .... | ||
| Point_doc |
Here is what mine looks like,    I have a 38 teeth alum. sprocket and I also removed 12oz. from the rotor. The weight removed from the sprocket and rotor allows my motor to spool up quicker. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
how's the durability of those parts compared to the originals doc? How much is too much when shaving weight from parts like that? | ||
| Hogs |
Point_Doc, Thats a nice setup ...How did ya remove the magnets without busting them all to hell? Also what did ya use to glue etc. them suckers back on? Thanks | ||
| Point_doc |
Spacecapsule1, The sprocket is hardened aluminum; when I removed the 34 teeth aluminum sprocket, it had minimal wear after 10k romping miles on it. A side by side test would give the answer to your question and I cannot provide you with this. I personally like the linear throttle response that is provided when the primary components are lighter and this is why I have stayed with the aluminum sprocket when I went back to the 38 teeth sprocket. As for the limitation of weight removal from the stator rotor; this is my third one. The first one I remove a little more than 3oz. and this gave me the improvements that I was targeting plus it gave me greater engine breaking and this was a surprise. But in looking back it should have been obvious, but this was not my goal. The second one, I was able to remove a little more than 7oz. and this was fun. Throttle response and engine breaking increased noticeably and because of the increase in engine braking, I have opted to go back to the 38 teeth configuration. I am in the process of putting my bike back together after winter mods and this will include the new rotor with 12oz. removed from it, plus back to a 38 teeth sprocket. I hope this answers your questions, if not please ask. | ||
| Point_doc |
That rotor is from Kevin Drum; somehow they all separated from the rotor. I suspect the glue used is not that strong, because I had one of a previous one separate from the rotor. Kevin needed to get a working one for his race bike quickly, so I sent him the one that I removed the 3oz. from and he sent me his with the separated magnets. I used JBWeld for metals; this is what I used for the first one that separated and it ran perfect. As for removing the magnets, Kevin suggested using heat, but I do not know!!  (Message edited by Point_Doc on March 27, 2009) | ||
| Arcticktm |
I can't count the teeth, because the XB9 sprocket is now in the bike, but I took the part # and teeth count right off the H-D OEM parts label last night. If I didn't put in a 35 tooth, then the label was wrong. Label said: 35 teeth, and 40241-02A As you know, the letter refers to a revision of the part. I got these parts from American Sport Bike last spring, and the date code on the H-D parts label said 2008 (I forget what month). All I know for sure is they went in fine and I like it. Don't know why you would also switch to chain drive. I only made the switch to XB9 gearing to lower the gearing on my Uly. I don't ride 120+ MPH around here, but I did fry my clutch on a gnarly fire road before making the switch. | ||
| Hogs |
YEah I had one that I tried to remove the sprocket from on a press and then damn magnets well one of them busted off...Not sure JB. wd. hold them either, Did ya mean You did use JB. and it did separate? | ||
| Point_doc |
Hogs, I used JBWeld to repair/reattach the magnet to the rotor. Basically, between the magnets strong attraction to the rotor and centrifugal force that will press the mass of the magnets against the rim of the rotor. I suspect the purpose of the glue is to hold the location/relationship of the magnets in place, which is critical for the stator to work properly. | ||
| Hogs |
Right on...Good to know JB does the trick for that...Nice setup ...That must make some difference all that weight off, to spool up ,Damn another project down the road LoL | ||
| Point_doc |
Hogs, Here's a pic of my primary with alum. sprocket, alum. clutch assy and alum. hub, plus the rotor minus 3oz.  (Message edited by Point_Doc on March 27, 2009) | ||
| Hogs |
Nice setup To say the least... That rotor -3 oz. I take it the other picture had more out of it and it was even lighter... Which company makes that front sprocket and that rear basket/clutch setup? | ||
| Point_doc |
www.evoindusa.com | ||
| Hogs |
Thanks Pal...! Same company makes them http://evoindusa.uia.net/popup_image.php/pID/392?osCsid=a5e97ddbd4ea9ae81f17b2b9f54fd314 Thats nice 3 inch Belt drive where does it end Second thought sticks out way too much...And too much added weight (Message edited by hogs on March 27, 2009) (Message edited by hogs on March 27, 2009) | ||
| Didactic |
From what I have gathered from previous posts on this going to a 9 makes your 1st-2nd gears your city gears, instead of just 1st (assuming you are keeping the engine above 3K, so as not to lug it). Put me down for one of those lightened ones -- can't believe you got 12oz off one. Have you lightened anything else on your bike?  -D | ||
| Point_doc |
Didactic, 12oz. is a lot, when considering the rotor weighs in at 3lb 10oz. Then you have a couple more lbs from the primary sprocket and then 5/6 plus lbs for the clutch basket. Its a lot of mass rotating and using energy. | ||
| Sleez |
i would not use heat to remove the magnets, heat can demagnetize them. not sure to what extent, but it can. | ||
| Point_doc |
Sleez, Good point; if you apply heat to the rotor side and just enough to break the bond that the glue has, maybe then it would work?? Don't know, just thinking aloud. |
