| Author | Message | ||
     Pkforbes87 |
I've got a safety wiring kit from pit posse that doesn't strike me as being the highest quality. The drilling jig looks like the drill bit hole is placed too close to the outside edge of the nut hole (please no juvenile comments about "nut holes") I keep breaking off drill bits inside the jig, and have done nothing but scratch the finish on a couple of nuts and bolts. Any ideas out there from anyone else who uses safety wire? btw I'm not doing any racing, I just really like the raw mechanical look of hardware being safety wired. AND if it's safety wired then it doesn't need loctite  | ||
| Ducbsa |
I have a similar jig and I have broken a lot of bits. What I have done a few times is drill a shallow starter hole in a larger size at right angles to the nut flat, then turn it 60 deg in the drill press vise and use the smaller bit in the point between the hole wall and the bottom cone. That way it doesn't wander, bend, and snap. Hope that is clear enough. | ||
| Hexangler |
I use a dental hand-piece with carbide bits. Freehand. | ||
| Schmitty |
Don't buy cheap bits! Buy the highest quality bits you can find. And drill VERY slow. It also doesn't hurt to use a little bit of cutting fluid. Schmitty (Message edited by schmitty on March 29, 2009) | ||
| Eicas |
Good quality drill bits are almost essential, and even they break easy. Try to get a drill motor that runs at the recommended RPM and use cutting oil. Close to the edge should not make a big difference since the purpose of the safety wire is to keep the nuts and bolts from loosening, not to provide a tighten force. Nuts and bolts usually come loose from vibration or expansion and contraction so there is no great twisting force on them. When you safety it all up, about 9 turns per inch and not drum tight, just snug will give good results. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I got the 4 pushrod base bolts drilled. Took me 3 titanium bits and 3 carbide bits - 3 of those broken while I was figuring out just how fast to drill. The titanium starts out really well, but carbide seems like it maintains a good sharp edge longer. Before I finished I started getting the hang of it, and the bits were just wearing out fast instead of me breaking them off prematurely. I'll be using only carbide bits in the future. Is the type of lubrication used vitally important? I was just using some silicone spray lube. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
I use a punch to mark the hole. Then a drill press with no jig an WD40. Only broke one bit on near the last bolt. Hand drilling with no jig I broke 2 bits. | ||
| Ulynut |
You can use just about any type of oil. You just need to keep the bit cool. I have used WD40, motor oil, transmision fluid, just don't use anything that will catch fire too easily like gas or fuel oil. I bet water would even work to some degree. | ||
| Skully |
Phillip, What size drill bit are you using? Keith | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
1/16" | ||
| Steve_mackay |
The biggest problem is most hand drills don't have the required RPM to effectively use a 1/16" drill without going REALLY slow. I helped a friend prep his R6. Didn't break a single 1/16" drill. But, I was also using a CNC machining center and running 6,000 RPM to drill thru the bolts, all while using high pressure coolant on the drill bit. But Shmitty is right, use GOOD quality bits, GO SLOW, and use something to cool the drill, and lubricate. WD40, or a really light oil will work well. | ||
| Mesafirebolt |
I have done a lot of my bolts, all freehand. Start with a much bigger drill, drill straight into the bolt just enough to get a flat place to start your new hole by drilling the side of the bigger one. |
