| Author | Message | ||
     Ronwilson |
I flew into Fort Worth yesterday, from Manila, and saw/rode my slightly used 2003 XB9S (2800 miles)for the first time! GREAT! No surprises. Excellent condition and seems to be running perfectly. It warmed up to 60 degrees and I got in about 50 miles on the bike. "Mr. Wilson, did you know you were going over 65 in a 40 zone when you passed the cement truck in a no passing zone? New bike?" Oooopps... (fortunately, I got only a warning, whew!) The only problem: no owners manual! Now I have basic maintenence questions I need immediate answers to.... can you help me? 1. what kind of gas to use? unleaded required? what octane do you suggest? 2. what quantity of engine oil? (I want to change oil). Need the "how to's"..... How do I properly check the oil level? i.e. bike on the sidestand or upright or what? 3. transmission oil, proper quantity (want to change it too) and how to check? And where is the filler and the drain? 4. tire pressure, front and rear? Stock tires still in place. 5. Where do I get an owners manual? only operating issue I have a question about so far is this: when decelerating, the engine seems a bit slow or "lazy" coming down from 2000rpm to the 1000rpm idle... takes an extra 1-3 seconds (compared to my experience with Japanese bikes or my KTM....) Is that normal? Finally, actually riding it a bit helps me clarify my mods list ideas.... This bike needs VERY LITTLE, that's for sure! My new mods list is much smaller than my theoretical one gathered from website forums... By the way, I do not have the new wheel bearings with the orange seals.. do I really need to change them? Awaiting your sage advice, Ron | ||
| Daves |
Use the HD 20/50 or the new Syn3 oil Check it when the bike is warmer up fully and on the kickstand. Changing is easy, warm the bike up, there is a drain plug on the bottom of the swingarm,9/16th I think. Take off the chin spoiler to get to the filter. Put new filter on,replace drain plug, use long skinny funnel to put new oil in. Should take about 20-30 minutes start to finish. I can get you an owners manual and if you are going to work on your own bike I would advise you to get the service manual as well. Owners manual is 20.00, the service manual is 58.00 less the ever popular Badweb 10% discount. Have you set the suspension up for your weight and riding? This you should do right away as these bikes are very sensitive to proper or improper settings. Call me and I can give you some baseline settings over the phone and walk you thru doing it. Tire pressure I "think" is 34 and 34 but I can look for sure for you, I haven't ever had stock tires on mine. It left the shop with H2s on it. Ride to the edge! 1-800-342-7539 ext 14 Dave Iowa HD/Buell (Buell Cycle Center) | ||
| Buckinfubba |
YYYAAAAAAHOOOOOOOOO is that how ya felt when you rode it. Dave is right on all except the air pressure on those stock dunlops is front 36 rear 38 and those stock tire are very sensitive towards that. but is they ain't stock thats about right enuff | ||
| Ronwilson |
Thanks a ton, guys.... I am amazed and humbled at your level of assistance to a complete stranger. I return to Manila in a week.... coming back to Texas for June and July, and then taking the bike with me to Thailand for my next assignment... get this: the Thai army officers I will work with in the mountains of Northern Thailand have a Harley riding club! And one of them owns 3 Buells! Will wonders never cease? Bet Eric doesn't know that tidbit of market penetration info... I do need to work the suspension setup a bit. I managed to get the "chicken strips" off of the tires in my 50 miles, but the front end feels more nervous than I expected under moderate cornering. I am no great rider, but have been on the street since the late 70's and ride motocross still.... I will call you, Dave, concerning your offer to help a bit on the suspension. And I will surely need the manuals... And it seems I am inching closer to a race kit with Drummer... cruising at 60-65 in top gear is about 3500 rpm... in accordance with Murphy's Law, that is right in the middle of the dip in the torque curve.... and I can feel it already. Other than that, it would appear to me the motojournalists who whine and complain about the XB might just be a bit on the spoiled/jaded side.... Thanks again. What about the fill and drain of the transmission? | ||
| Austinrider |
Ron- Glad you got your bike man. That corbin is still for sale if your interested. The engine takes 3.5 qts of oil. I, personally, prefer the Mobil 1 Synthetic V-Twin formula (carried by autozone). Ride the bike for 10 minutes before checking the fluids. After riding it for 10 minutes, let it sit for a bit and then check your fluids. I believe those are the instructions in the M.O.M. As for Transmission fluid: with the bike on its kicks stand: Next to the shifter you will notice a plate with 3 bolts. That is the plate you remove to FILL the tranny fluid. The bold underneath that plate is the drain for the tranny fluid. It takes exactly 1 quart. Again, my preference is Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear oil - believe its 75w90 or so. Again, available at Autozone. 1 bottle is exactly 1 quart - all ya need. The toque specs on both the tranny drain plug and the oil plug is betwen 25 and 31 ft pounds torque. Tire pressures per the owners manual is 36 on the front 38 on the rear if I recall correctly. I set my preloads on the rear suspension according to the owners manual. Marcus McBain did the rest for me at the track a few months later. Fuel: 93 octane unleaded gas per the manual. Hope this helps. Drop me a line if you are still interested in that corbin. dfelipe_@hotmail.com | ||
| Prof_stack |
Correction - the oil capacity is 2.5 quarts. | ||
| Brucelee |
The engine takes 2.5 qts, not 3.5. If you doubt that, check it after you add 2.5 and it will be full. Check on side stand. The trans takes 1 qt. I use Mobil One 15-50 in engine, Mobil One 75-90 in trans. You will not believe how much better the trans shifts with the Mobil One in it. Night and day. Re: Engine braking, not as strong on the XB as say a Ninja four cylinder. Not an issue in everyday riding once you adjust. Ditto on the tires, sensative to pressure, so check them weekly. Good luck riding! | ||
| Ronwilson |
Howdy, Now I am confused.... engine oil: 2.5 or 3.5 quarts?.... | ||
| Buckinfubba |
thnaks prof that could got messy | ||
| Brucelee |
2.5 qts in engine res. just behind the engine. 1.0 qts in trans res., just in back of foot shifter. Put 75-90 in trans. 15-50 in engine. If you doubt the quantity, check it after 2.5 not 3.5. You don't want to have to drain it again do you? Also, hand tighten the oil filter only and just a bit. The gasket is easily squashed and will then leak right away. Also, be sure to fill the filter half way up with new oil before installing. Failure to do so will also result in a leak. All lessons learned BEFORE I got my manual (which BTW, did not come with my NEW bike). Some dealers are DICKS! Good luck edited by brucelee on January 31, 2004 | ||
| Austinrider |
Its 2.5 qts.. I goofed | ||
| Xb9er |
1.0 qts in trans res., just in back of foot shifter. Important: A full quart of primary/trans fluid is too much. The correct procedure is found in the manual but essentially you fill to the bottom of the clutch plate spring. Getting the level correct will result in better shifting and make it easier to find Neutral. Use synthetic oils (Mobil 1). | ||
| M1combat |
When you change the filter, pour four ounces of oil into the filter (as per the instruction in the service manual). Put the REST of the 2.5 quarts in the swing arm. It will take something like a transmission funnel to fill the swingarm (Don't use a used one!). Be sure to wipe the magnet off that is part of the swingarm drainplug. Get the service manual. It's worth it's weight in gold (and it's fairly heavy...). Absolutely EVERYTHING is presented in detailed form. I particularly like the sections in the back that show the proper placement of all fluid and electrical systems presented one at a time with only the proper components highlighted. Very nice. Be sure you have a good quality ?T27? Torx head. I stripped two cheap ones I borrowed from a friend and finally just bought me and him a good one  . | ||
| Azfirebolt |
To answer your 1st question, supreme unleaded fuel only. At least 91 octane.... No methanol | ||
| M1combat |
Yeah, no methanol, but ethanol is OK (AS I RECALL!!! Check the owners manual first!) | ||
| Brucelee |
1.0 qts in trans res., just in back of foot shifter. Important: A full quart of primary/trans fluid is too much. The correct procedure is found in the manual but essentially you fill to the bottom of the clutch plate spring. Getting the level correct will result in better shifting and make it easier to find Neutral. Funny but I have done this three times with one qt and it works like a charm, JUST LIKE IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL!! | ||
| Honu |
Nobody answered Ron's question about the wheel bearings. I am curious about this also, having just got my 03 XB. Ron mentioned orange color on the bearings, can you see this with out taking the wheels off? Any info would be appreciated! Thanks. | ||
| Xb9er |
There are accounts of wheel bearing failure with the old wheel bearings. The old ones have black bearing seals which are visible without removing the wheels. They should be changed as soon as possible to be safe. Regarding Primary/Trans Fluid: See Page 65 of the XB9R owner's manual-- Item #3: "See Figure 28. ...lubricant level is acceptable when lubricant is even with bottom of clutch diaphragm spring with motorcycle standing upright." Item #5: "Lubricant should reach bottom of clutch diaphragm spring (approximately 1.0 quart(0.95 liter)). YMMV I mentioned it because I tried the full quart and didn't like the feel/took a few tries to find Neutral, so before my next ride I drained a few ounces until it reached the fill level recommended. It was a dramatic difference and noticeable immediately. Anyway, if anyone has the problems I experienced, I would recommend just draining a little bit of fluid out to see if it helps. I would not have thought of this if I had not re-read the manual more carefully. | ||
| Xb9er |
Brucelee, there's no need to shout. I am trying to help by relating my personal experience. Again, individual results may vary. | ||
| Darthane |
I answered his questions on another board. Personally I use 28oz of tranny fluid - never seeps, leaks, easy to find N, and shifts like a baby's bottom. | ||
| Brucelee |
Sorry, did not mean to shout! | ||
| Xb9er |
Oh, I almost forgot, I use between 27 and 28 ounces of tranny fluid. | ||
| Bradyclt |
I just completed fluid changes on my XB9SL and wondered where on the dipstick things should end up. Here's what I did using Amsoil 20-50 MC oil in both the tranny and engine. Drained 30 oz from the chaincase; refilled with 27 oz (based on feedback from here... and it did make slight, but noticeable improvement in clutch takeup and shifting) Took the remaining 5 oz, poured 4 oz in the new filter, leaving an extra ounce. Dumped this and 2 full quarts into the swingarm. Then added 13 oz from the fourth bottle. This gives me a grand total of 2 qts 18 oz (or, 2.56 quarts). With a capacity of 2.5 quarts I figured I'd be at the upper FULL mark on the stick, but that's not so. On a hot check I'm right at the lower FULL mark. On a cold check I'm about 1/8" below the lower FULL mark. Two questions: Is this the expected hot check level with 2.5+ quarts, and why would the level go down on a cold check. If anything I thought it would rise as oil drained down out of the motor. Both checks were done on level ground (my garage) on the sidestand, and I've verified zero leaks. And, why not just calibrate the preferably light colored dipstick for a cold check since that's when you're supposed to check such things (PRE-ride). My VW also has a black dipstick, and that just defies common sense to me. Thanks in advance for the help... |
