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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through January 31, 2004 » Safety wire, who done it? What was done? « Previous Next »

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Dasxb9s
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 10:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

This has been recently touched on... but I am curious about further details.

Who has safety wired an XB?

What was safety wired?

Done for track or street?

What size safety wire used?

What kind of drill bits were used?

How many drill bits did you go through?

Did you use fixtures to drill?

Used hand drill or drill press?

What was done on and/or off bike?

Are there any avionic (commercial or military) manuals for safety wire techniques? (I have not found much on the net.)

Anything else you feel should be known.

THANKS!!!!!!
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Xb9srider
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I safety wired my bike for track use and then got sick for the BRAG track day and too busy to do it another time. So no track days (yet). Oh well. I just wired the oil items. If I were racing, I would do more (brakes, grips, etc.). I don't push as hard on the track as I used to, so it's easier on the bike.

Oil cap, Oil filter (with clamp and wire)and drain plug. I did the drilling off the bike. I went through two bits on the plug only because I grew impatient and tried to hurry it with a little pressure (snap, cussing, new bit and more patience). It's really easy if you look at a good safety wire job on another bike. It's also a good idea, street or track. Hope this helped. Ride safe.

Mark
Never Give Up!
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Captainkirk
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

DAS-
Aviation is full of books on safety wire techniques. The ones that come to mind immediately are AC43.13 1B and the aircraft general handbook but I don't have them in front of me; they're all at work. I'll get some specifics tomorrow and post them for you. Basically all you need is a pair of safety wire pliers and some safety wire. I've got a bunch of suppliers for that as well (at work, of course) that I'll post for you. There's not much to it, it's a lot easier than it looks!
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Trojan
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

All we wired on our race bike were the oil drain plugs, oil filler and grips. Everything else was loctited and checked regularly (every race!).
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Henrik
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Drilling off the bike is sooo much easier. I bought a cheap drill press at Harbor Freight (pretty decent for the price - certainly comparable to the standard Craftsman stuff at half the price) and did all the drilling on the SV. Get plenty of drill bits, and don't forget some cutting oil while you drill. Your drills will last much longer.

Good safety wire pliers are a pleasure to work with - but the $15 version from HF works just fine (my buddy bought Snap-On pliers - great stuff, but about 10x the price of mine - ouch)

Henrik
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Guys...

I have safety wire pliers and a hand twister... a Craftsman drill press... a nice DeWalt 14.4 volt cordless... got lucky at a lost freight and surplus outlet... got the tools for real cheap... Milbar brand safety wire pliers.

You are skipping one thing.. what type of drill bits. black oxide coated... HHS... cobalt... titanium coated... drilling fixtures...what are the best to use???

Inquiring minds want to know!
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Tdshepard
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Look for 1/16" split point 135* drill bits. I suppose cobalt is the hardest and best. I have a fixture from Tavia (model 1420) that I use. For just going through the corner of nuts and bolt heads (much better for retaining grade strength) look at AircraftSpruce.com they sell a nut Saf-T-Blok that is only $24.
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Henrik
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

through the corner drilling is very hard without a jig. I cheat and drill two holes straight across so I always (or mostly) have a hole pointing the right way.

For drills get something that'll last awhile without being too expensive. They break anyway, so no need to waste too much $$ on each.

Henrik
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Steve_a
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Through corner bolt drilling isn't that hard. I used to use a jig, but Kevin Cameron showed me a far better technique. Place the 16th inch bit as far into the drill as possible, to minimize the bending loads on it. Do the initial drilling more or less straight into a flat near the corner, just deep enough to make a pocket that'll hold the drill into place. Then go for the angled, cross-corner hole.
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Henrik
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Steve; good advice - thanks. I'll give it a try.

Henrik
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Tdshepard
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Machinists use center drills to start all holes. Try to find a cheap 1/8" diameter (#1) center drill and it will help you start the bit on those angles.
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Captainkirk
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Das, et al...
Since you've already got pliers & such I probably don't need to post this (Milbar is a good brand!) but I will anyway just for GP or if anyone else cares.
Two sources for safety wire pliers (auto return, 6" which is probably the best for your purpose):
Available from US Tool & Supply, 800-521-4800 ask for P/N TP68K, your best value @ $79.50 as it includes pliers and 3 spools of safety wire, .020, .032, .041. Probably the most frequently used wire would be the .032. The pliers /wire are also individually available as TP68SR pliers, TP67 .020 wire, TP65 .032 wire and TP66 .041 wire. Their web address is www.ustool.com. Another vendor for the pliers (a little more pricey) is Brown Tool, 800-587-3883, www.browntool.com. Their catalog # on pliers is #196.
As for safety wire technique, info is available in Advisory Circular AC 43.131B "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices" available from Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Gov't Printing Office, Washington D.C 20402.$ (around 20 bucks) The section on safety wire is only about seven pages, so Das, if you want a copy post a fax number and I'll copy the pages and fax 'em to ya.
I agree with td regarding the cobalt 135 degree split-points. The Saf-T-Blok works well also. Good luck -ck
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Captain...

It will take a number of rings to pick up... but if you are willing... 816-833-8369.

If that fails... call me at work 816-512-2013 and I will give you a fax number for there... but will have to stand next to the machine when sent... so it does not end up in the black hole that some file personal faxes disappear to!

THANKS
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2004 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Captainkirk...

THANKS!!!!!
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Captainkirk
Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2004 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Das,
No problem for a fellow Badweber!
Hope you can read all the pages. There's probably a bunch 'o stuff in there you don't care about, but I figured I'd send the whole section. I just couldn't see ya paying 20 bucks for a few pages. Go have a few beers with the 20 bucks! ck/M2
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