| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
Read about this on another forum, is it a problem still with 09 XB12's? I heard there are aftermarket pads that wont have this problem... Is it recommended to replace them ASAP (how soon?) to prevent the deposits from forming on the disk and causing pulsing? | ||
| Jlnance |
Yes, it's still a problem, but a totally correctable one. The most popular pad seems to be the Lynda Gold Plus pads, which you can order from American Sport Bike. There are other pads as well. Switching pads does not guarantee you won't have deposit issues. You can get brake pulsing with the Lyndals as well. If you do, a light sanding of the rotor with 220 grit sand paper will do wonders to fix the issue. You do not need to remove the rotors to do this. | ||
| Andymnelson |
no its not an issue, nor has it ever been. the issue is riders who stop at lights with very hot brakes and then sit at the light with the front brake clamped down.this basically fries the brake dust on a now very hot-spot and creates the deposit, sometimes even warps the rotor. I have an '03, and no issues because I don't sit at lights that way. use neutral and/or rear brake at lights, no issue. | ||
| Id073897 |
no its not an issue, nor has it ever been. "Regardless of pad composition, if both disc and pad are not properly broken in, material transfer between the two materials can take place in a random fashion - resulting is uneven deposits and vibration under braking." http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_braked isk.shtml | ||
| Swordsman |
Still, the stock pads seem much more prone to it than others. BUT, they also have a much stronger initial bite than my Lyndals, so I'm sure it's got to do with the composition. ~SM | ||
| Froggy |
Majority of the issue can be avoided by using the rear brake at stops instead of the front. | ||
| Id073897 |
Majority of the issue can be avoided by using the rear brake at stops instead of the front Source? Where did you find the numbers? | ||
| Froggy |
Personal experience. When I bought my Uly, after about 3000 miles it was pulsing very hard, and I always used the front to hold me at a stop. I scrubbed the rotor as best as I could without removing it, and it reduced the pulsing. I read on here that I should use the rear instead of the front to hold the bike, and since then thats what I have been doing. The pulse got no worse, but Buell replaced my rotor under warranty, and I never had any issue since then. Now I am on my second XB, I bought it already pulsing. Again I cleaned the rotor as best I could, got rid of most of it. Pulsing never got worse as I was using the rear to hold the bike. I switched to the wave rotor and lyndall gold pads at the same time, and have never had even a hint of pulsing. I believe the different compound in the Lyndall pads can reduce your chances of it happening, but regardless of what pads you use, using the rear seems to be the trick. | ||
| Sokota |
what do you do when the rear brake is spit sizzlin hot !? | ||
| Andymnelson |
"what do you do when the rear brake is spit sizzlin hot !?"  Seems like you use the rear too much! Regardless, it does not seem to occur with the rear rotor like it does with the front. | ||
| Jlnance |
what do you do when the rear brake is spit sizzlin hot !? I doubt it matters, I've never seen anyone reporting pulsing problems from the rear. As to why it wouldn't matter, I'm not sure. My guess would be that little pulses on the rear rotor don't shake the bike as effectively as they do on the front. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I used to have a link to a site that recommended what I thought was a pretty good "normal" braking strategy. I can't find it now, but it goes something like this: as you approach a stop (stop sign, stop light, any planned stop) you progressively apply the front brake then the rear brake. As the bike slows nearing the stop, you decrease the front brake pressure and increase the rear brake pressure. By the point you're ~5 feet from your stopping point, you're completely off the front brake and doing all braking with the rear. This brings you to a nice smooth stop, helps avoid front pad deposition problems like Froggy suggests, and helps you avoid dumping the bike due to a locked front wheel. You're much more apt to lock the front wheel approaching a stop at an intersection where motor oil, anti-freeze, slick white traffic paint, and dirt/general debris accumulate. If the rear locks, you're much less likely to dump the bike. I think it's a pretty good strategy and try to follow it. | ||
| Ourdee |
If 75% of the stop is done by the front brake and 25% by the rear, would the front brake be 3 times as hot as the rear? I don't really want an answer. Just a thought on why I don't worry about holding the bike at a light with the rear brake. note: I always leave mine in gear at a light. | ||
| Froggy |
Why would you not? I sometimes pop in neutral if I know its a good 2 minutes till green, but then I watch the other lights so I don't get caught sleeping. I can't stand it when I miss the arrow because some douche canoe in front was in lala land. | ||
| Kev187 |
I am not sure what this deal is about holding the front break???????Apparently it is an issue on the Buell, as I ride in stop & go DC traffic every day. ON my Past Honda & Triumph motorcycles, I never had an issue holding the front brake in traffic, no depostis & this is after 20,000 miles collectively on both bikes. ON my 2008 Uly... 3600 miles the front rotor was shot. I switched the Lyndals, see how it goes. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Why would you not? I sometimes pop in neutral if I know its a good 2 minutes till green, but then I watch the other lights so I don't get caught sleeping. I can't stand it when I miss the arrow because some douche canoe in front was in lala land. The main reason to leave the bike in gear at a light is so you can vacate if the moron approaching from behind you at 35 MPH is in lala land. | ||
| Ourdee |
Hugh's, ning ning ning, a winner everytime. One of them was doing 45+ while on a cell phone. I was sitting at a red light when she nailed me hiney. She asked me did you stop fast. Remember you can not stop faster than the car behind you. | ||
| Mnrider |
Auto Racer Tommy Kendall explains it the same way Hughlysses did,heat build up and deposits in one spot. I drive my cars and trucks the same way,saves on brakes. |
