| Author |
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Bads1
| | Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 07:59 pm: | 
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You are right Andy. Rattle can indeed give you orange peel. Your finish will be better with it wet sanded or Da'd out. Me personally I'd never rattle can something. No pun intended. Andy what do you do for a living?? |
Andymnelson
| | Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 08:56 pm: |
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Haha, well right now I own a company that sells vacuum trucks- yanno, the ones that clean the poo out of outhouses and septic tanks. :-p fortunately, I only see them new! prior to that, I spent 8 years a jr hi youth pastor, prior to that a mobile installer for Best Buy, prior to that I managed an auto body shop that a family friend owned. A varied background to be sure, but I have gained many valuable experiences from all that I have done. Check it: tanktec.biz  |
Sifo
| | Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 08:59 pm: |
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I don't mean to get under anyone's skin here, but the thread is about giving tips that will help with a rattle can paint job, not what equipment a professional custom painter would use.
Just as a good rider can maximize an ill handling bike as still be way faster than a poor rider on a great bike, a good painter can get excellent results from a rattle can, while a rookie painter will fail with the best equipment but no painting knowledge.
What Ochoa0042 is attempting to do is well within the realm of getting good results from a rattle can. I have a friend that repairs guitars as a business. He uses rattle cans on $20,000 vintage guitars regularly just because he doesn't have room to set up a sophisticated paint shop. He also rattle caned his 76 sporty and gets compliments all the time.
You can't buy technique, but once you learn some good technique doing cheap paint jobs you might decide to pony up the bucks for the multiple spray guns, air/oil traps, compressor, and why not throw in a climate controlled down draft spray booth too.
The point here is that everyone starts somewhere, and usually on a tight budget. To be honest where Ochoa0042 is at right now knowledge and rattle cans will get him further than a well equipped paint shop without the knowledge. Let's help a brother out! |
Andymnelson
| | Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 09:05 pm: |
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I think that's exactly what we are doing. I'm just saying that a rattle can job does not require sanding between coats- should save a brotha lots of time and agony! |
Sifo
| | Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 09:20 pm: |
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Well by not sanding between coats you create the same problem that he had on his first shot. Spraying on a nice smooth shiny surface and the paint peals right off with the slightest scratch. |
Ochoa0042
| | Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 09:56 pm: |
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4:10 - 4:30
All I have to say:
- use the sweeping motion to spray
- keep the Can far away from the surface (naturally for myself, is to get close up and drench the paint on.. to make it look all glossy.... NO, bad things happen to good people)
- wear some type of breathing protection.... spray-paint-dust hurts the lungs.... and covers everything in sight, objects im my garage have a orange tint
- if the first coat isnt perfect, the second coat will per-fect it
- dont spray while there is wind
- third time is a charm  |
Bads1
| | Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 09:57 pm: |
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That is a adhesion problem then. Sanding between coats only helps the next coat adhere to the prior coat. |
Sifo
| | Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 06:31 pm: |
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Thought I would post a pic of what can be done quality wise from a rattle can.
This was one of my winter customizing projects in January. Simple one color with no clear coat. Just trying for a close match for the blue bodywork currently on the bike. It's not show quality, but if you are happy with the gloss of the factory bodywork this would not disappoint you. The price was certainly right.  |
Tattoo72
| | Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 06:46 pm: |
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I have a question to ask. The plastics on our bikes tends to flex a lot. Will the rattle can paint crack and chip off due to flexing? |
Rkutzner
| | Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 07:16 pm: |
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I ordered the passenger footpegs part numbers from the two up kit (already had a touring seat so didn't need another seat).
Anyways, I get one dark graphite and one silverish footpeg support ! A little scuffing and a few coats of Krylon semi-gloss later and they match and look great ! |
Sifo
| | Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 07:22 pm: |
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"I have a question to ask. The plastics on our bikes tends to flex a lot. Will the rattle can paint crack and chip off due to flexing?"
I would be more concerned about that with lacquer shot from a spray gun. Most rattle can paint stays pretty flexible. That's the big reason that you won't get the same gloss sanding and polishing something like my seat cowl in the picture as you could with lacquer. It doesn't look bad though. If short cuts are taken in the preparation the durability will certainly suffer regardless of the top coats.
I mentioned before that I've rattle canned 1/24 scale plastic slot cars a lot with great results and they take a real beating on the slot car tracks. Plastic failure was a much bigger problem that paint failure on those.} |
Sifo
| | Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 07:26 pm: |
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"I ordered the passenger footpegs part numbers from the two up kit (already had a touring seat so didn't need another seat).
Anyways, I get one dark graphite and one silverish footpeg support ! A little scuffing and a few coats of Krylon semi-gloss later and they match and look great !"
You should have put them on as an unmatched set just to see if anyone would notice! You only look at one side of the bike at a time! |
Ochoa0042
| | Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 07:52 pm: |
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Thought I would post a pic of....
how do I make the plastic look like that? |
Sifo
| | Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 08:01 pm: |
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I did let it cure for about 3 weeks. Polishing soft paint is kind of like polishing a turd. Then wet sand with 600 grit, 1000 grit, and 1500 grit. Hit it with rubbing compound and finally I use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze. |
Ochoa0042
| | Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 08:10 pm: |
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yay or nay?
it looked good by itself.... but once mocked up on the bike it did look so good.. :mixed emotions:
(Message edited by ochoa0042 on March 02, 2009) |
H2owerker
| | Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 08:42 pm: |
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I like it...
If you're not happy w/ the luster try some clear-coat from the same manufacturer as the base coats. |
Not_purple_s2
| | Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 08:51 pm: |
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nice |
Sifo
| | Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 09:25 pm: |
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Looks like you are getting the hang of things! Glad you didn't get frustrated and give up.
+1 on clear coating it. That will help to smooth the paint edges on the graphics too. Good for another 2-3 MPH!  |
Jeffroj
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 03, 2009 - 01:01 am: |
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Be sure to wet sand it with 600-800 to give the clear a bite to hold onto, before you clear it, this will also give you a chance to sand out any light blemishes in the paint. Be careful not to sand through your paint job, and stay away from edges, you will knock the paint off very quickly! |
