| Author | Message | ||
     Got_jack |
How much of a pain is it to replace the headers. Can I do it myself or will it be easy just let the dealership do it. Do u really have to rock the engine to get to the rear bolts. Thanks. | ||
| Krueger08xb12s |
I'm almost certain you do...but then again, you're supposed to rock the engine to change the rear plug too. Point being..there must be a way around it! Sorry i'm not much help | ||
| Nillaice |
it is a 3-beer job. pm me for the shade-tree mechanic's instructions | ||
| Skinstains |
Trying to do it without rotating the motor ends up being more work than just rotating it and doing it right. It's not a bad job at all. | ||
| Ustorque |
rotate the motor, it's a good learning experience and it's very cool to see how these bikes are designed to work.  | ||
| Got_jack |
i guess this is gonna be a nice sat. job now before i do this what eles do i need any gaskets? also i guess i could but in plugs right? | ||
| Nillaice |
you shouldn't have to replace the header do-nuts, unless you bugger 'em up, or feel the need to. dowse the header studs with some PBlaster before starting dis-assembly so you don't bust a stud, and have to deal with that pain. the service manual calls for some O2 sensor compatible anti-seize. if you don't plan on rotating the motor, you'll need a universal joint and a short 1/2 socket | ||
| Mmcn49 |
Just R&R'ed my headers, don't think I could have done it without rolling the engine. I followed the manual but it has you removing more stuff than necessary. You should be able to lower the engine enough without disconnecting the fuel line and most of the wire harness connectors. | ||
| Got_jack |
like i said its gonna be a nice sat. job now that im rockin the engine it would be better to change the plugs whitch ones u guys prefer keep it stock or upgrade to a better one... | ||
| Nillaice |
i don't know if some plugs are really as great as they claim to be... my .02 i just gap and clean 'em more often than the service interval says |
