| Author | Message | ||
     Ducatirdr |
I took my XB out for a short blast and it turned shorter as my shift lever broke off when the bolt snapped inside the engine case. I've searched through the archive and read through the few suggestions for American Sportsbike pivot bolt upgrade http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/index. php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=17127&sid=t3c9n15194t 42901plv35880m45s608u I'm looking for advice on how to remove the snapped bolt in the primary. Should I remove the primary and bring it to a machine shop or can I remove the bolt with an EZ Out with the primary on the bike? Obviously if it will come out easy with an EZ Out I will do it myself. Anything to watch out for doing this myself? | ||
| Diablobrian |
The easiest way is to just use the other pivot point that is already in your primary cover (like the racers do). This will get you back on the road quickly and then you can take your time getting the stud out of the hole. A left handed drill bit is probably the way to go for removing the stud from the case. be sure to center punch it first and drill straight in. The casing is much softer than the stud so be careful. | ||
| Cycleaddict |
weld a nut to "flushly" broken bolt and it WILL come out on the first try. (there is nothing ezy about an ezy-out !) | ||
| Kootenay |
Like Diablobrian says, a left-handed drill bit is your friend here. I've used these to remove broken bolts from casings in industrial situations; I've never had to insert an EZ-out, because the bolt has always come out on the drill bit (this is the reason for the opposite spin direction). | ||
| Ducatirdr |
I'll try the Lefty drill bit and if that don't get it I'll pop the primary off and bring it to a machine shop for a pro to hack at it. I like the welding idea but I don't have those skills either. I did see the other mounting point and wonder about that. IS that for GP shifting or do you use another linkage bar to get that to work? (Or both?) | ||
| Diablobrian |
The alternate point is an either or depending on how you orient the linkage you can make it GP or standard. Racers use it to get a little more ground clearance before hard parts touch down. (Yes, the do end up grinding them if they leave them in the stock position) The lefty drill bit should be magic for you. Be sure to drill a small pilot hole before going for the larger bit so that your bit does not wander off center. You probably know this but it never hurts to have a reminder. | ||
| Ducbsa |
My bolt was scuffed after a tip over and I replaced it with a SS bolt and washer, not a flange bolt and it is fine so far. I did use loctite, which seems to be recommended for everything. | ||
| Ducatirdr |
I need help finding a drill bit to drill out that bolt. I tried to use a Home Depot drill for metal and it was a joke. I'm using my dremel tool so I'm sure I'm pushing enough speed as I tried to drill a 2mm pilot hole. Where can I get a good 2mm drill bit? What lefty drill bit would you recommend? Will a 14volt screw gun drill in reverse have enough speed to do anything? | ||
| Diablobrian |
Speed isn't the thing you need (after a certain point) it's torque, and most 14 volt drills have everything you need to do it. I'll have to take a look at the bolt and see what size lefty drill you need. You want to center punch it and drill as large of a hole as you can without getting out of the bolt and into the casing. You probably burned up the bit you had with too much speed by running it in the dremel, use oil on the bit to keep it cool and try to avoid work hardening the bolt by spinning the bit on it without "pulling a chip". I know, I know, I'm kind of over-complicating things, but it sounds like this may have happened with the 2mm drill and you will have to break through this hardened surface before you'll be able to get on with business. I wish I could come over and do this for you, but "them's the breaks". We'll get this sorted out. |
