| Author | Message | ||
     Sslowmo |
I have the service book and it usally says to use loc-tite if needed. But some bolt's it doesn't say to use it. I was wondering it the bolts that hold the oil cooler needs it and also the bolt's that hold the v-brace to the frame. It doesn't call for loc-tite, in the book? Thank's Aaron | ||
| B00stzx3 |
I use Loc-tite on all my fairing bolts (Sharkskinz full fairing), the turn signals between the washer and bolt. If theres some that you possibly will need to unscrew in the future I defintley wouldn't use loc-tite on them. | ||
| Nillaice |
i put the blue loc-tite everywhere | ||
| Ducbsa |
I wish they had loctite when I had my '65 BSA 650. I also wish I hadn't been so inexperienced then. Kind of funny that I buy a bike with FI, computer ignition, belt drive, and hydraulic lifters after spending years getting to where I can adjust all that stuff. | ||
| Ez_rider |
I'm with Nillaice. I use blue Loctite pretty much everywhere. It still allows the bolts to be removed easily enough, and doesn't trash the threads like red Loctite can. | ||
| Bo_sox |
Blue Loctite on everything taken apart! | ||
| Ourdee |
Do you use the blue on the oil drain? | ||
| Metalstorm |
I use Permatex high temp thread sealant on my oil & primary drain plugs. It's like liquid.....I really hate saying this on this board......liquid teflon tape. On all the small fasteners such as chin fairing screws I use purple (low strength) loctite. Blue on the bigger stuff. Edit: For spark plugs, I was using spark plug specific anti-seize (silver stick) but I heard the silver stuff can be bad for the 02 sensor. I have a tube of copper anti-seize that I'll be trying next time. (Message edited by metalstorm on December 24, 2008) | ||
| Coolice |
Blue, torque wrench, safety wire. | ||
| Hootowl |
I use blue everywhere unless the manual calls for red. Everywhere except well nuts that is. Don't ask. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Loctite is the brand name of a company that makes a variety of products. The two that are most useful for working on one's Buell are the Blue - removable, and the Red - high strength. In between is purple, low strength, which is not as readily available. You basically don't want to use the Red at all. It requires heat to remove it, and home mechanics often destroy the fastener just trying to remove them. I think Buell may recommend it for the rear sprocket. I use the Blue, works fine. I recently discovered that the blue is sold in a stick form, which makes it very easy to use, as the liquid form tends to drip off the fastener. The Loctite Blue removable Quick Stick is #248. A bit hard to find, but worth looking for. I use it on absolutely everything but the drain plugs. Buells vibrate quite a lot It is also very important to use Loctite any time you have a steel screw going into aluminum, a very common situation on a Buell. The reason is that the Loctite prevents water from entering the joint and causing corrosion, which can make the fastener extremely difficult to remove. Where possible, I often replace the OEM fasteners with stainless steel which is closer on the galvanic scale to aluminum, and therefore corrodes less. Where aluminum and steel meet, but are not threaded, such as the axles, an anti seize compound should always be used to avoid corrosion. This is also available in stick form now a days. just my .02¢  | ||
| Sslowmo |
Thanks guys. I thought that would be the response's given. But I wanted to be sure... | ||
| J2blue |
don't forget your buttocks.  | ||
| Etennuly |
Ha Ha......he said "Teflon Tape".  | ||
| Teeps |
With the exception of the oil drain bolts*; I torque all other fasteners to the spec' in the book. Thread locker need not apply... * Torque spec (in the book) is suspect, as many (here) have stripped the threads in the swingarm by using the 30lbs/ft. recommendation. |
