| Author |
Message |
    
Kowpow225
| | Posted on Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 10:23 am: | 
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I'd notch the bolt to accept a BIG flathead screwdriver like wrecked said. Then get an impact screwdriver (the ones you smack with a hammer) and a couple of solid whacks should do it with a 'deadblow' style hammer. If you can, back up the back side with a wooden block to the rim because the piece you'd be smacking is somewhat small and directly connected to the fork. |
Iamarchangel
| | Posted on Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 01:26 pm: |
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I've always been able to tap the ez-out out with a punch. It's a bit of work but I've been able to do it.
I've nearly always been able to get a bolt/screw out by either hitting the driver with a hammer as I turn it or using an impact wrench thing. You know, the hand held thing that has different bits in it, you hit it with a hammer and the internal spring forces a turn.
Hammers, ha, I hated that when I worked as a mechanic. Customers never understand the need for them on their bike. |
Smoke
| | Posted on Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 03:07 pm: |
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diamond dremel bit for the easy out, probably more than one. then a left handed drill bit to hopefully take the head of the bolt off and the bolt with it. good luck.
tim |
Buelltroll
| | Posted on Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 08:06 pm: |
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NOTHING has worked 
I've spent a good 50 bucks trying to get this damn screw out |
Figitt
| | Posted on Friday, November 14, 2008 - 06:31 am: |
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If it were mine.... knowing the size of the head on that bolt... I would tack weld something onto the head. Its going to damage something im sure, maybe melt the fender a little, but at this point you are gonna have to damage something to get this taken care of.
I know its too late to mention this, but ive learned over the years of working on these bikes that you ALWAYS use hand tools to tighten allen and torx head bolts, If you use locktite on these, then be carefull to not over tighten them, and carefull when removing them not to bugger the head up. ALWAYS use top quality NEW allen wrenches and torx bits, one slip and the screw is done. |
Figitt
| | Posted on Friday, November 14, 2008 - 06:34 am: |
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Tack it with a mig.... and have a glass of water standing there. cover the wheel/fork with drop cloth. After you tack it, toss generous water on it, and then get it out of there.
Only other option i see is to spend some money and buy a QUALITY drill bit (MSC or machine shop supply) and redrill the bolt for a larger easy out. It can be done, but patience and persistance is the key. I might even consider taking it to a small machine shop and ask for help. |
Wantxbr
| | Posted on Friday, November 14, 2008 - 11:11 am: |
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Drill the bolt out from the back side!
Remove the Fender from the other Fork Leg and Remove the Wheel so you can pivot the other Fork Leg slightly for easier access. |
Bigredwood
| | Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 05:42 am: |
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Troll,
I feel your pain. Two years ago, I destroyed a head bolt out of pure ignorance. Three days till a race and I had the bottom of a head bolt stuck in the cylinder!!! First run at it was with an extractor . . . shattered!! It took me a fistfull of bits and 4 hours on a press to drill the easy-out and center of the bolt to get it finally removed. I doubt you will need this much work . . . but I do offer a hand.
I work in a maintenance department that stocks every size drill bit made. If you lived closer to Nebraska, I would get it out for ya. But I will extend this . . .
need a drill bit pm me.
need a extractor pm me.
need helicoils . . . pm me.
I hate seeing fellow rides lay in wait for a tedious fix on a bike. So does my boss . . . who stood and sprayed Tampmatic EDGE as I drilled a head bolt into the wee-hours of the morning. You gotta love the community of bikers that worry about riders. They are the ones stopped to help the guy on the highway, trail, and in the pits.
Good Luck and Ride On,
Wood |
Bamaboy
| | Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 10:18 am: |
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wtf is the point of that?
that lump of an engine they put in at the factory have too much(!!!!) power for you?
}KARMA!!!
 |
Buelltroll
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 09:59 pm: |
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..!.,
I welded an allen wrench to it
Thanks to everyone for the input,now I just need to figure out how I'm going to replace the missing header stud.
(Message edited by buelltroll on November 20, 2008) |
Nillaice
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 10:15 pm: |
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thanks be to the heavens above, CLOSURE!
seriously. thank you for posting that.
i'm glad you got it out. but still, even if it was a lie, thank you for posting that you did.
and to put the cherry on top, any above the above suggestions (including mine) were not the 'ol trick in the book that finally got it out. |
Buelltroll
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 10:32 pm: |
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Even if it was a lie?
I TIG welded an allen wrench to it
I'll post a pic of it tomorrow if ya want  |
Nillaice
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 10:35 pm: |
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i'm not callin' you out man, just giving thanks for the closure you brought.... on a related side note i'd like to see it if you wanna post the pic. |
Bigredwood
| | Posted on Thursday, November 20, 2008 - 01:06 am: |
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Great to hear you got it resolved. I'd love to see the pic myself. Now I just have to add this to my 'When Maintenance goes Bad' notebook . . . . . one more crisis, one more solution!
Bamaboy - wtf is the point of that?
The cacophony didn't involve my Buell. The headbolt was on my CR500AF. After new top-end break-in, I re-torque my headbolts . . . I did something real stupid with a oversized torque wrench. Not my best hour, but a learning experience. The point was empathy and my choice was to offer help. Consumables can get very expensive. Especially on a fix that personally eats at the mechanic for his initial mistake. |
Garyz28
| | Posted on Thursday, November 20, 2008 - 01:31 am: |
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Whoever named them "Easyouts" lied. |
Buelltroll
| | Posted on Thursday, November 20, 2008 - 02:08 pm: |
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the first shot you can see the drill bit n ez out that snapped off in there
n the last 2 are my "lie" |
Nillaice
| | Posted on Thursday, November 20, 2008 - 08:10 pm: |
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i'm glad you got it out. but still, even if it was a lie, thank you for posting that you did.
i'm sorry to have posted that, man. if i could delete the post entirely i would.
i'm not callin' you out man, just giving thanks for the closure you brought
if you are not pissed off, throw a smiley in there
all in all, nice job and congrats |
Bigredwood
| | Posted on Friday, November 21, 2008 - 12:07 pm: |
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Awesome work man.
+1 to Figitt for the 'outside the box' idea. 
If the fender came out unscathed . . . +2 and a self-five to Buelltroll |
Buelltroll
| | Posted on Friday, November 21, 2008 - 02:32 pm: |
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No high five for me
the diamond bit slipped n scratched it
plus the tig arced blew its ceramic tip
n caught the fender on fire
spot smaller than your pinky nail but still a spot |
Skinstains
| | Posted on Friday, November 21, 2008 - 03:43 pm: |
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I know many are going to say this is crazy, but. I put never-sieze on all the stuff most put Lock-tite on. I replaced all those stupid T-27 Torx that were on rotors and sprockets with good old fashioned hex head bolts all grade eight. If all you have to do is throw a screwdriver handled T-27 on a handfull of bodywork bolts every now and again to make sure they're tight, that's no big deal. I even use never-sieze on all of my triple tree bolts and my footpeg mount bolts too.
(Message edited by skinstains on November 21, 2008) |
Ourdee
| | Posted on Friday, December 05, 2008 - 10:06 am: |
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Skinstains,
What do you use on the oil drain plug?
Buelltroll,
First pic of it looked like a pacifier on a stick mounted to your computer. |
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